Oil for a Duramax

[Philip Blackburn]

You guys really seem to be the experts on this stuff. I searched but didnt really see anything that fit my application.

What are your guys thoughts on oil for a 2003 Duramax? It in a 4x4 2500HD with an Allision. I have been thinking about running rotella since thats what my dad runs in all his equipment and I could just use his but I am kinda leary of using his oil since he gets it by the 55 gal drum and I dont know if I like the idea of possible contamination by the goobers that work for him. I think he goes through a drum every 3 months or so. I would run short drain intervals since 10q at my milage aint nothing to him. Probably like 5k? That sound right?

Driving to work every day is an extreamly short trip(I actually take the long way so I get everything up to temp before I shut it down) but the weekends is mostly longer trips. Not much idleing, I do plan to install a high idle circuit though. The duramax runs a water cooled turbo and I let her cool down a bit before I shut her down especially if I have been hard on it. So I dont think synthetic to keep from cooking oil in the turbo is needed but synthetic might be nice for other reasons? Its basic daily transport but I do find it hard to keep my foot out of her

I also will plow snow with it this winter. I can plug her in at home but I havent talked to the boss yet about plugging it in at work, should be OK though. I live in central IL.

The searching I have done dosnt speak to highly of shell. I like the idea of using a full synthetic for no other reason so I aint using dino that is helping the arabic states(I know I buy gas still and my bit dont make an impact but if everyone in the USA bout synthetic it would be cheaper and drive the prices of oil down more and relieve our dependence on them slightly JMO) It wouldnt cause me to buy it though.

I dont really believe in the whole oil analisis and change your filter at 10 and run your oil till 20000. Seems like a wash $$$ wise.

I dont have a problem running a "winter" oil and a summer oil if it would be best. I have also heard of adding something like 7oz stp oil treatment to increase the ZDP or what ever that big word starting with zink is to dino.

So basicly I have a source of free oil. I want what is ultimatly best for my truck, rotella might not be the best but will it hinder my trucks life? Would it make sense in the long run to pass it up?

If I didnt have access to free oil what would be optimum(as long as it aint 12$ a quart of course

)?

TIA

 

[MolaKule]

If you run Shell Rotella for 5k and it's free, I don't see why not.

Other good oils are Amsoil 5W30 HDD, Amsoil 15W40 AME, Mobil Delvac 1 5W40, and Schaeffer's Blend #700 in 15W40.

I wouldn't attempt extended drains with any oil without Used Oil Analysis. At least take a random sample every 10 k miles to see where your engine is at.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Delvac 1 would be my first choice! After that take your pick Amsoil or Redline diesel oils. Shell Rotella T Synthetic is not a bad oil it is just not the best for the price! Last I checked Shell was useing a group III dino oil in their synthetic so they are over chargeing for what you are getting!

 

[Steve S]

check this website it may help you pick an oil. http://members.aol.com/fmtrvt/OilStudy/current.pdf

 

[Bill Plock]

Steve,
Very interesting data! Thanks for posting!

Phillip,
Free Rotella is tough to beat. You should be fine with the Rotella. The Bosch common rail injection system is relatively easy on the oil. Click on Pictures for a shot of the oil on the dipstick of my Dmax with 3.2k miles (under bypass filter install). Also if you do decide to run different oil, be sure that it's API Certified. GM explicitly states that you must use API certified oil to maintain your warranty. I currently have Amsoil 15W40 Synth in my 2003 Dmax but will be switching to DELVAC-1 for this reason.

[ June 04, 2003, 08:48 PM: Message edited by: Bill Plock ]

 

[Ken2]

Phil,

The only real clinker in your scenario is the use of STP or any other oil additive.

Buy an oil that contains everything your engine needs. More zinc is not better...the good oils have just the right amount. Neither you nor I can home brew something better than the oil company chemists can concoct--unless you're an organic chemist.

I think the best oil for the price is the Schaeffer #700 15W-40 synthetic blend. It'll be fine for your winters...if there was such a thing, it would actually be rated as an 8W-40. The best thing you can do for your engine in winter is to preheat it with an electric water jacket heater, as well as using suitable oil, either Schaeffer's or one of the full synthetic diesel lubes.


Ken

 

[TooSlick]

PHil,

I'd second the recommendation of the Amsoil 15w-40 or Delvac 1, 5w-40 - both of these oils have been on the market for over twenty years and are the most proven synthetic diesel oils available anywhere. Another good oil that is available up north is the Petro Canada, 5w-40 - it generally show excellent results in these applications. Probably the best Group III based synthetic diesel oil available and a good value @ $15.00/gallon.

TooSlick
Dixie Synthetics

 

[Philip Blackburn]

Would it be wise to run a winter oil(probably delvac although people speak pretty highly of schaffer) Since I am plowing and probably a bit harder on the truck and there will probably be longer run times and idle times as well as the whole cold issue. Run this for longer drain, probably wait till my change oil light comes on(max milage is 10k)

And run the free rotella dino in the summer months? Run this at short drain intervals.

This be a good idea that is lighter on the pocketbook but is also good for my motor? Or is it still best to not swap oils all the time and run delvac for 10k?

 

[TexasTDI]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Philip Blackburn:
What are your guys thoughts on oil for a 2003 Duramax? It in a 4x4 2500HD with an Allision.

---

I bet you paid a lot of money for that rig, right? And I bet you want her to last a very long time, right? So I suggest using a full synthetic oil.

Amsoil 15w-40 is a full synthetic oil and is recommended for use in outside temps down to 5F. Even though it's pour point is actually -47F. As long as your winters don't get below 5F you're safe to use it year round. But if your winters are colder than that, you could switch to Series 3000 5w-30 in the winter.

Amsoil 15w-40

Amsoil Series 3000 5w-30

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

just cracks me up

 

[k1xv]

I would use the 55 gallon drum Rotella T (assuming you can assure yourself that it is reasonably fresh and not subject to contamination) and switch to Rotella T synthetic in winter if you are in a cold weather region.

An interesting site is rotella.com and look at their (underutilized) forums. The Shell lubrication expert answers a lot of questions, I think, quite frankly and honestly. He says that unless you fall into exceptional circumstances, such as very cold winter start issues, Rotella T may be preferable to Rotella T synthetic.

I am using Rotella T synthetic in my Duramax because I do not tow, and it can get pretty cold in the early morning in Vermont.

[ June 14, 2003, 12:46 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]

 

[Drstressor]

I'd follow TooSlick's advice. I have run both Delvac 1 and Amsoil 15W-40 in my Dodge Cummins and seen very similar wear metal results upon oil analysis. You can confidently go 7.5K or 1 year between changes without worrying about oil analysis. The 5W-40 Delvac was slightly better than the Amsoil during cold mornings (that is, the engine settled down faster) and both were noticeably better than 15W-40 Delo 400 (the best low temperature conventional diesel oil). Run the same oil year round.

Having said that, your engine will hold up fine with 5K changes using Rotella. You likely could go longer. Diesel engines are overbuilt and wear about the same using any CI-4 oil until the oil shears or the additives become depleted. With your change interval, you needn't worry about either. I find that how I drive has much more of an effect on wear metal accumulation than the type of oil used. Highway driving, even towing and pulling hills is easiest on the engine. Cold starts and short trips are hardest.

 

[Rat407]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Bill Plock:
Steve,
Very interesting data! Thanks for posting!

Phillip,
Free Rotella is tough to beat. You should be fine with the Rotella. The Bosch common rail injection system is relatively easy on the oil. Click on Pictures for a shot of the oil on the dipstick of my Dmax with 3.2k miles (under bypass filter install). Also if you do decide to run different oil, be sure that it's API Certified. GM explicitly states that you must use API certified oil to maintain your warranty. I currently have Amsoil 15W40 Synth in my 2003 Dmax but will be switching to DELVAC-1 for this reason.

---

The fact of the matter is API certified. Shouldn't one be concerned to use an oil that is certified? Not that I am in my gas vehicles but that is my choice, never seen an oil related problem in any of my vehicles or famliy members. But it seems to be a major topic on other forums to make sure to use an API cert oil.

Don't mean to take sides or anything like that just seems to me that from what has been posted that little fact in the manual stating API Cert can make a difference when you go for service and you happen to be at one of those dealers that is a stickler.

Like I said, I'm not to concerned in my vehicles and that is my choice. I just wanted to make sure that everyone is on the same page so to speak and if your vehicle is still under warranty then do as they say to prevent heart ache if it should arise. Or if your like me and are taking a chance then that is your choice also.

I feel that if your using a quality product then you shouldn't have a problem but then define quality? My UOA's with a "quality" Series 2k didn't turn out well and I didn't do anything wrong other than try to go the extra mile that was stated on the bottle. Now if I was an average person and didn't know about this site or care about oil then I could have been in big trouble. Dealers are good at getting out of warranty claims if you don't fight the fight. Personnaly if I had a Dmax it would get the Amsoil, it is easier to get than the Delvac 1. Not to mention I am better educated from reading post on this site and know about UOA's.

Ok where was I, oh yea just wanted to put that little API certified oil back in this post, just in case.

 

[Greg]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Bill Plock:
Steve,
Very interesting data! Thanks for posting!

Phillip,
Free Rotella is tough to beat. You should be fine with the Rotella. The Bosch common rail injection system is relatively easy on the oil. Click on Pictures for a shot of the oil on the dipstick of my Dmax with 3.2k miles (under bypass filter install). Also if you do decide to run different oil, be sure that it's API Certified. GM explicitly states that you must use API certified oil to maintain your warranty. I currently have Amsoil 15W40 Synth in my 2003 Dmax but will be switching to DELVAC-1 for this reason.

---

do i see some rust under there?

 

[Bio-T]

I looked at the pictures of the bypass filter mounted underneath the truck. The brown looks like good old factory cosmoline to me.

 

[Bill Plock]

59 Vetteman,

You have a good eye! The brownish coating is AMSOIL HD metal protector which is basically Cosmoline in an areosol can. I have undercoated all my veichles with it. It forms a nice waxy and durable coating that sheds water.

 

[msparks]

As far as filters go, here is a link to a setup on a duramax with the Amsoil by-pass system.

http://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/preston/index.htm

 

[hk33ka1]

I second or third the Amsoil 15W40 AME.
About the API does the Magnuson Moss act not cover oil as well? If the burden is on them to prove your part (or oil) did the damage and this is the law why not use any product you want if this is your legal right. Some say it is more hassle than is worth but if it is your right under that law why not exercise it. If you use any oil other than what the dealer puts in at a dealership done oil change and the engine goes it is very possible they will say your API Quaker State etc. broke it and still not pay out. Now if the Moss Act or some other law doesn't cover it then I guess it is your choice based on faith in the oil the engine and the dealer's rep.

 

[Bill Plock]

I don't mean to knock the AMSOIL BMK17 Bypass Filter for the Duramax, but I've read reports of slightly decreased oil pressure with this set up when used on the Duramax. Probably not a problem since the Stock Duramax runs 30 psi at hot idle and 65 psi at 2000 RPM (hot) Cold start pressure pushes 100psi. (FWIW I didn't see any drop in pressure with the OilGuard).

 

[Rat407]

quote:

---

Originally posted by hk33ka1:
I second or third the Amsoil 15W40 AME.
About the API does the Magnuson Moss act not cover oil as well? If the burden is on them to prove your part (or oil) did the damage and this is the law why not use any product you want if this is your legal right. Some say it is more hassle than is worth but if it is your right under that law why not exercise it. If you use any oil other than what the dealer puts in at a dealership done oil change and the engine goes it is very possible they will say your API Quaker State etc. broke it and still not pay out. Now if the Moss Act or some other law doesn't cover it then I guess it is your choice based on faith in the oil the engine and the dealer's rep.

---

My understanding is if the owners manual states to use API certified oil then it must be API. The Moss Act just allowes you to use various other API brands and not just the GM labeled oil. It doens't matter that you are using an oil that exceeds API specs if it doesn't have an API stamp and your using it, warranty is voided. At least that is my understanding on this. Correct me if I'm wrong.