I am going to be changing the oil on this Rover for an old friend and would like to ask everyone's opinion. Here is the skinny, '67 Land Rover 88 approximately 4000 miles on vehicle(2.25 L gas) driven less than 100 miles a year on a large hunting camp. The vehicle may sit undriven for as long as 4 months at a stretch. Typical ambient air temp while operating 10-60 degrees F. The pamplet size owner's manual recommends straight 20wt. I can get Valvoline 20wt but I was thinking that internal engine corrosion being a distinct possibility it might be wiser to go with something like a 10w30 diesel oil like Rotella T or Motorcraft both of which are easily available. Any suggestions?
Oil for '67 Land Rover
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Mep -
Be advised that Rotella, although a great HDEO oil , is also highly detergent.
I put some 30w Rotella in my 1951 GMC pickup last June & after the first long road trip, it leaked some on the oil drip pan.
GL
Be advised that Rotella, although a great HDEO oil , is also highly detergent.
I put some 30w Rotella in my 1951 GMC pickup last June & after the first long road trip, it leaked some on the oil drip pan.
GL
Thanks rapid47 Valvoline MaxLife was at the top of my list until I began thinking about how much this vehicle sits. Do you think MaxLife has enough anti-corrosion ability? Also as regards to leaks and drips this Land Rover already seems to suffer from plenty, none serious but you can tell it was made in England.
Greg L did your dripping problem get worse and worse or did you take action and remove the Rotella?
Does anyone know if GroupIII synthetics have the same reputation(fairly or not) as other synthetics because I would be tempted to use Rotella Synthetic if I thought it wouldn't cause some sort of massive hemoraging?
Greg L did your dripping problem get worse and worse or did you take action and remove the Rotella?
Does anyone know if GroupIII synthetics have the same reputation(fairly or not) as other synthetics because I would be tempted to use Rotella Synthetic if I thought it wouldn't cause some sort of massive hemoraging?
Why do you think a 10w30 would help against corrosion better than a (recomended) 20w-50?
Spitty,
I am not stuck on the 10w30 part but the HDEO part as it typically provides more protection from internal corrosion than PCMO's do.
The manual recommends straight 20wt. not 20w-50.
I am not stuck on the 10w30 part but the HDEO part as it typically provides more protection from internal corrosion than PCMO's do.
The manual recommends straight 20wt. not 20w-50.
As a Land Rover enthusiast my self, I have kept up with the recommendations somewhat.
In Britain, thick is usually recommended despite the climate. Check out http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/Rec_Lubes.htm. They recommend 20w-60.
Personally I would go with a diesel 15w40 such as Shell Rotella. They do have detergents, but also anti corrosion additives.
Another good option would be to go with Mercury Marine's 4-stroke 25w-40 marine engine oil. It is specially formulated with anti-corrosion additives (since most boats sit a good while) and has fewer detergents. You can pick it up at Walmart or West Marine for about $2.25/qt.
If you are up north, a straight 30 weight diesel oil would work fine. I have never heard or talked to any owner that used a straight 20 grade in a 2.25 engine. If the Rover is used in the winter, get a oil heater from www.roversnorth.com and stick with 30 weight. Cheap.
It will leak, the rear main rope seal is hopeless. They just didn't worry about leaks years ago in Britain regardless of make.
In Britain, thick is usually recommended despite the climate. Check out http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/Rec_Lubes.htm. They recommend 20w-60.
Personally I would go with a diesel 15w40 such as Shell Rotella. They do have detergents, but also anti corrosion additives.
Another good option would be to go with Mercury Marine's 4-stroke 25w-40 marine engine oil. It is specially formulated with anti-corrosion additives (since most boats sit a good while) and has fewer detergents. You can pick it up at Walmart or West Marine for about $2.25/qt.
If you are up north, a straight 30 weight diesel oil would work fine. I have never heard or talked to any owner that used a straight 20 grade in a 2.25 engine. If the Rover is used in the winter, get a oil heater from www.roversnorth.com and stick with 30 weight. Cheap.
It will leak, the rear main rope seal is hopeless. They just didn't worry about leaks years ago in Britain regardless of make.
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If it were mine, I'd go with Rotella T 5w40. That way, you're pretty much covered, regardless of temperature. With that said, & as little as this thing gets driven, anything on the market today, from 0w20 to 20w50 would liikely work fine in that Rover.
this requirement is much like farm equipment, long periods sitting idle, so I'd be using something with a vapour phase inhibitor such as is used in the Castrol Agri range here.
All Land Rovers leak, you should see the ones on mine and it's a '99. It's a cunning anti-corrosion plan.
straight SAE 20?
everyone has always run those things on a 20W-50 PCMO or 15w40 HDEO in this part of the world.
This is taken from a Castrol PDS for Agri PowerPlus 15w40
[ September 12, 2006, 04:35 AM: Message edited by: tdi-rick ]
All Land Rovers leak, you should see the ones on mine and it's a '99. It's a cunning anti-corrosion plan.
straight SAE 20?
everyone has always run those things on a 20W-50 PCMO or 15w40 HDEO in this part of the world.
This is taken from a Castrol PDS for Agri PowerPlus 15w40
The other oil companies should have similar products
[ September 12, 2006, 04:35 AM: Message edited by: tdi-rick ]
tdi-rick wrote: "It's a cunning anti-corrosion plan."
I've never given them that much credit..but you may be correct.
I've never given them that much credit..but you may be correct.
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