Oil Filtering

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Hi,
I just took delivery of a 2009 Dodge 5.7 Ram pickup.
I just changed oil and filter at 600 miles.
I like to do this with everything. (cars, trucks,bikes)
My question is: Does my truck have a full filter oil system? Does all the oil go thru the filter before it goes to the bearing and so on?
Thanks,
JACK
 
Yeah they all do.
600 miles though? You might be introducing more wear than you are saving. Filters filter a little better as they are used for a while. And starting up after an oil change, the bearings run kind of dry for a little while.
 
A filter filters best just before it clogs up.
I fill the filter with oil before I screw it on.
Jak
 
i also fill the filter with oil before putting it on. however, i would not have changed it at 600 miles. indeed, i only change the filter every other time, because i use a fairly short oil change interval, 3-5000 kilometers.
 
I fill my filter also but there is still that 1 or 2 second dry start that cant be helped on my ford 4.6 the fl-820s screws in sideways so what i do is put a little oil in the filter and when i start it i hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it for a couple of seconds (this 4.6 wont start if you hold your foot to the floor) then wait 5 seconds and start it normally... I can still hear a slight knocking sound whn it is first started dry
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
I fill my filter also but there is still that 1 or 2 second dry start that cant be helped on my ford 4.6 the fl-820s screws in sideways so what i do is put a little oil in the filter and when i start it i hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it for a couple of seconds (this 4.6 wont start if you hold your foot to the floor) then wait 5 seconds and start it normally... I can still hear a slight knocking sound whn it is first started dry

I doubt the starter is going to spin fast enough to get any oil pressure.
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
I fill my filter also but there is still that 1 or 2 second dry start that cant be helped on my ford 4.6 the fl-820s screws in sideways so what i do is put a little oil in the filter and when i start it i hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it for a couple of seconds (this 4.6 wont start if you hold your foot to the floor) then wait 5 seconds and start it normally... I can still hear a slight knocking sound whn it is first started dry


I had the Merc GM with the 4.6 and put 218,000 miles on it. Used M1 oils at 10,000 mile OCI and never heard an oil change knock, and never pre filled the filter.
 
The 4.6 always had a second's worth of start up noise on the top end, but on my 94 T-Bird with probably 160,000 miles, I never had any odd noises after an oil/filter change. Definitely no knocking, and nothing worse than a normal start up. Maybe the oil coated better.
 
the starter does spin fast enough to get oil pressure in a matter of fact after all our rebuilds we crank the engines for about 10 seconds without starting ... shop rule
 
Pre-filling the filter can add contaminants that will pass through the engine on startup. Some new oils are fairly dirty, and those particles are removed on their first pass through the filter.

Now, if you can manage to pre-fill through the inlet holes of the filter instead of the outlet hole, go for it! I may try doing this next time by wedging the ADBV open slightly with a smooth object that won't damage it, then slowly pouring oil into the hole.
 
Again, I've cranked up a few engines after an oil change that would be very knocky/noisey compared to other engines.

My 4.6, 5.0 Fords/2.4 Mitsu/3.8 Buick/LS1 do not make any different noise other than their normal start up noise after a long drain oil change. In fact, the 3.8 never has a single hint of any chatter on start up, even when cold. Very quiet engine. I run 5w-40 RTS in it. All of them except the LS1 which gets 0W-30 GC.

I've only heard an old Nissan noise make terrible noise for 3 seconds after an oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Pre-filling the filter can add contaminants that will pass through the engine on startup. Some new oils are fairly dirty, and those particles are removed on their first pass through the filter.

Now, if you can manage to pre-fill through the inlet holes of the filter instead of the outlet hole, go for it! I may try doing this next time by wedging the ADBV open slightly with a smooth object that won't damage it, then slowly pouring oil into the hole.


New oils are fairly dirty??? That is the first time I have ever heard that. Where does that information come from?
 
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Originally Posted By: Onmo'Eegusee
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
I fill my filter also but there is still that 1 or 2 second dry start that cant be helped on my ford 4.6 the fl-820s screws in sideways so what i do is put a little oil in the filter and when i start it i hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it for a couple of seconds (this 4.6 wont start if you hold your foot to the floor) then wait 5 seconds and start it normally... I can still hear a slight knocking sound whn it is first started dry

I doubt the starter is going to spin fast enough to get any oil pressure.


it will get oil pressure, its not alot of oil pressure but you can get the light in a toyota to turn off when you just crank it
 
Seems like to me that whenever you cold start, the oil filter will bypass for a short while anyway. So if your filter is mounted mostly horizontal the adbv isn't going to stop the oil from the clean side from draining back. This is another reason I like the bypass to be before the element, and also smaller filters refill quicker. How long does it take for the filter to fill anyway? Seems like a wste of time prefilling the filter.
 
Originally Posted By: another Todd
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Pre-filling the filter can add contaminants that will pass through the engine on startup. Some new oils are fairly dirty, and those particles are removed on their first pass through the filter.

Now, if you can manage to pre-fill through the inlet holes of the filter instead of the outlet hole, go for it! I may try doing this next time by wedging the ADBV open slightly with a smooth object that won't damage it, then slowly pouring oil into the hole.


New oils are fairly dirty??? That is the first time I have ever heard that. Where does that information come from?


Look in the bottom of the bottle after pouring off most of the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: labman
Originally Posted By: another Todd
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Pre-filling the filter can add contaminants that will pass through the engine on startup. Some new oils are fairly dirty, and those particles are removed on their first pass through the filter.

Now, if you can manage to pre-fill through the inlet holes of the filter instead of the outlet hole, go for it! I may try doing this next time by wedging the ADBV open slightly with a smooth object that won't damage it, then slowly pouring oil into the hole.


New oils are fairly dirty??? That is the first time I have ever heard that. Where does that information come from?


Look in the bottom of the bottle after pouring off most of the oil.


I've heard that's more from additives falling out of solution.
21.gif
 
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Originally Posted By: labman
Originally Posted By: another Todd
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Pre-filling the filter can add contaminants that will pass through the engine on startup. Some new oils are fairly dirty, and those particles are removed on their first pass through the filter.

Now, if you can manage to pre-fill through the inlet holes of the filter instead of the outlet hole, go for it! I may try doing this next time by wedging the ADBV open slightly with a smooth object that won't damage it, then slowly pouring oil into the hole.


New oils are fairly dirty??? That is the first time I have ever heard that. Where does that information come from?


Look in the bottom of the bottle after pouring off most of the oil.


I've heard that's more from additives falling out of solution.
21.gif



I have heard and believe that is more the additives falling out of the solution as previously posted.. Thats why I shake up my oil before pouring it into the engine.
 
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Some of it can be from oxidation, some of it can be additive fallout, some of it can be contamination from the equipment used to blend and bottle the oil. We've seen some VOA's lately that were pretty dirty. I've even read of an issue someone was having with wear in their Caterpillar equipment, and a study was done that determined that it was because they were pre-filling the oil filters, and that the oil had some abrasive particles in it that were not filtered out prior to being introduced into the system, due to the pre-filling.
 
The troubles with true contamination are typically with bulk oil in stuff like mining and otherwise remote "on location" oil servicing. Bottled stuff goes pretty much directly from being blended to being packaged. Bulk oil may change vessels several times before reaching the end user piece of equipment.
 
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