Torque Test Channel posted a video showing oil filter wrenches tested. They were ranked by style, e.g. goes around the filter (straps, chains, webbing) and end accessed (fits on flutes, grabs the filter).
Oil Filter Wrenches Tested by Torque Test Channel
- Thread starter rstsco
- Start date
I’ve never had any luck with the end cap style. I’ve got one of the rubber band wrenches that does ok but definitely needs room to swing. Will probably add the Lisle claw style next time the need arises.
I've used the Lisle one for many years on all sorts of vehicles and it's always gotten the job done without a lot of drama. Also very good at accessing difficult locations. Avoid the end cap ones-how they failed in the video is exactly my experience with them.
End caps are great for poor access. Everyone buys stamped steel with a spot welded button for the square drive, and then wonders why they suck.
You need cast or machined Al or steel, and all one piece. This makes for a HUGE jump in performance.
That said, cap wrenches can only do so much because filters themselves are poorly stamped. The flutes are often not crisp and more rounded than angled as they should be. Furthermore, many specs are too broad, like 73/74mm. Which is it? They don't care.
And no matter what, you still need a broad selection of cap wrenches to fit any reasonable range of sizes, making for lots of pieces and lots of storage/organization required
You need cast or machined Al or steel, and all one piece. This makes for a HUGE jump in performance.
That said, cap wrenches can only do so much because filters themselves are poorly stamped. The flutes are often not crisp and more rounded than angled as they should be. Furthermore, many specs are too broad, like 73/74mm. Which is it? They don't care.
And no matter what, you still need a broad selection of cap wrenches to fit any reasonable range of sizes, making for lots of pieces and lots of storage/organization required
Also I will say it would be wonderful if the industry would adopt some standards for OD and flute count, narrowing it to, say, 4 or 5 sizes for all but exotic makes (Lamborghini and Audi will deliberately not comply just to show they're special). We've adopted 1/4, 3/8" and 1/2" drive -- filters don't need to be any different.
Obviously this is incredibly idealistic and will never happen, but a guy can dream....
Obviously this is incredibly idealistic and will never happen, but a guy can dream....
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- May 5, 2018
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Same here and on new cars i have a large breaker bar as new filters are torqued to death...
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My Honda filter cap wrench fits the filters so tightly that it can be hard to remove once I get the filter off.
I have several cheap stamped filter caps for other filter sizes. They work OK, but generally I’m only removing filters I installed so they are not goober-tight and can forgive marginal cap wrench fitment.
Assenmacher makes some excellent tools.
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- May 7, 2025
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I've had the same stamped steel end cap style for 20 years as it's the only one that has a chance of removing the filter from where it's buried.
I do all the oil changes on the car so it isn't really necessary anymore as I don't crank on it when I install a new one, but it's nice to use an extension on it so hot oil doesn't run down my arm as I unscrew it.
I do all the oil changes on the car so it isn't really necessary anymore as I don't crank on it when I install a new one, but it's nice to use an extension on it so hot oil doesn't run down my arm as I unscrew it.
Also if you wind up with aluminum (which is not a bad thing necessarily), bonus points for a HEX around the square drive. In aluminum, something like a 3/8" square may start to deform but being able to put a socket OVER a larger hex is virtually foolproof.
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I use the cap style wrenches on my kids' cars and they work fine. The one time I encountered one that wasn't a perfect fit, I stuck some of that grippy toolbox liner material inside it and that did the trick.
I have a full drawer of 15-20 different sized end cap filter wrenches that really don’t work. I don’t need a filter wrench on any car that I’ve done the oil change on. But when I do I don’t mess with the end cap wrenches and simply go for the channel locks.
I have a lot of the oil filter wrenches in that video but the one I still use the most is one of those ones that has the metal round strap that cinches down on the filter when you move the handle.
I helped my fiancé's son change the oil on his 99 Cavalier with the 2.2L yesterday and the oil filter is a major pain to get to. My 92 Cavalier 2.2L is way easier to get to even though it's in the same location on the engine and both cars have automatic transmissions.
I loosened the filter from the top but was able to get it out from the bottom. I also had problems trying to start the filter back on the filter housing screw. I couldn't see it from underneath and had to feel around until I finally got it started. I may try installing it from the top next time but there seemed to be some lines in the way to be able to do so and that is why I didn't try taking it out from the top.
I use this style all the time, it will grip so tight the teeth poke holes in the can if the filter is really stuck. I used a 18 inch braher bar, the can was vented, made a mess, but the filler came off
Oil filters can in some case be difficult to remove due to gross over tightening and heat bonding the filter seal to the block.
As a qualified mechanic I have had to hammer a screwdriver through filters due to the above.
It is not always possible to use a strap type filter removal tool due to very limited room, and this is where a quality cup type filter removal tool (cast alloy) not ever pressed steel should be used.
The cup must be matched to the flutes on the filter; however, some cheap oil filters are super thin, and the flutes will round off.
Use a quality filter that is not over tightened and a quality tool. For heavy-handed mechanic/ diy people cup type removal tools can have a torque wrench attached to it.
As a qualified mechanic I have had to hammer a screwdriver through filters due to the above.
It is not always possible to use a strap type filter removal tool due to very limited room, and this is where a quality cup type filter removal tool (cast alloy) not ever pressed steel should be used.
The cup must be matched to the flutes on the filter; however, some cheap oil filters are super thin, and the flutes will round off.
Use a quality filter that is not over tightened and a quality tool. For heavy-handed mechanic/ diy people cup type removal tools can have a torque wrench attached to it.
