Oil filter size

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I've read lots of peoples comments here about how they found a bigger filter and many other comments on filter size. Looking through my filter book I compiled this little list of all the 3/4-16 thread filters that one could choose, maybe thinking he was doing something good. Although one of those is the synthetic version with much finer filtration, the rest are "standard" media, which may or may not have different micron ratings. Other than the slightly off-size gasket that might blow sooner, note the different relief valve pressures.
My Corvair has a built in 10 psi relief valve, so as long as I have a filter with a higher pressure, I'm covered. But if I chose a 7-10 psi filter it would bypass too soon and not filter.

What about the engines that need the 10 psi filter relief valve if you put the 36 psi filter in? That engine could run dry waiting for oil if it got clogged or oil was too thick for the temperature.

filter-specs.gif
 
Speaking of filter sizes. I have often wanted to run a bigger oil filter on my Tacoma 2.4. Is it as simple as finding one that fits, or are there different features inside of the filter that I need to watch out for.

Thanks for putting up this topic.
 
Quote:
I have often wanted to run a bigger oil filter on my Tacoma 2.4.


What year. 2004 2.4 uses a 3/16 thread filter with a 2.7x/2.4x gasket and carries a standard 8-11 bypass valve from WIX. It has a 2.9x" diameter can. A longer version would be the 51516 in Wix.

Part Number: 51348
UPC Number: 765809513488
Principal Application: Various Chrysler/Jeep (82-08), Various GM, Saturn (85-07), Lexus (90-08), Saab (67-08), Suzuki (86-02), Toyota (88-08), Yugo (86-89), Harley-Davidson, Various Lawn&Garden, Farm Equip.
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.404
Outer Diameter Top: 2.921
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=21/37
Burst Pressure-PSI: 275
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 19

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.734 2.430 0.226

Part Number: 51516
UPC Number: 765809515161
Principal Application: Ford/Lincoln/Mercury (81-08), Chrysler/Jeep (02-08), Mazda Trucks (94-07)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.828
Outer Diameter Top: 2.921
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=14/31
Burst Pressure-PSI: 275
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 20

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.734 2.430 0.226

You can go to the Donaldson chart that widman has posted and xref to Wix. It may allow you to integrate stuff a little easier.

Nice chart.
 
Besides the thread size, you'd also want the by pass setting at a similar pressure.
One some engines/filter positions, the anti drain back valve may be important.
A very small variation is gasket size maybe OK, depending.
 
That is the right answer Gary. most people just go looking for the thread and gasket. And in that case you even have smaller particles filtered out of the bigger filter, which bodes well for the relative size-to-filtering, not like some I cut apart a few years ago, all purporting to be PH-8A. No where near the total filtering area, even without testing for efficiency.
8_cut_filters.jpg
 
I have recently started to use Wix filters on my 2000 Tundra V-8. I had previously been using PureOne PL10241 oil filters and was very satisfied. But I decided to try the Wix 51348 when I started Auto-Rx treatments. When it was time to change it during the clean phase, I decided to step up to the larger Wix 51516 in order to gain a larger filtering capacity (at least that was my logic). So far, so good. I might just stay with this 51516 filter after the two ARX treatments. But i did like the fact that an oil change and filter took exactly 6.5 quarts with the standard size filter. The math was very easy. The 51516 filter requires an extra 1/4-1/3 quart to bring it to the full mark.
 
This time I'll disagree with you Gary. unless all driving is slow starts,slow braking and slow cornering, the extra oil will probably hit the counter-balances on the crank and cause foaming. Foaming causes cavitation and poor lubrication, resulting in failed or spun bearings.
 
In some low profile Asian or Euro with some real tight oil pan ..sure. ..but he's talking 4-6oz of fluid ...well within "max overfill" that any central lube dispenser will add with a "dial a quart".

It's a good blanket recommendation for those who don't know. It's a potential risk to some ..but by no means all. YMMV

Grounding the football for yardage is a violation
Grounding the football for time, is not.
 
I have been known to round up by as much as .5 quart, or down as much as .3 quart!

Oddly enough, none of my equipment has ceased to function to due such "disregard" for exacting oil levels. While I completely agree that overfilling to an extreme can cause aeration, or extreme underfilling could cause starvation, it's likely not going to happen with most of today's vehicles or equipment if you just ballpark it within a 1/3 quart or so.

Interestingly, manufacturers are taking different routes to oil capacity, with what I percieve to be little concept for common sense. My 2000 Frontier with a 3.3L V-6 only took 3.5 quarts with a tiny filter. My wife's 1995 3.0L Villager takes 4.2 quarts with a moderate filter. I rounded up for the Nissan truck, and down on the Villager (Nissan) van, putting both at 4.0 quarts (easy to remember, easy to buy for, easy to not have leftovers). Want to hear something odd? These two vehicles both use a variant of the same 3.0L v-6 engine! Just a displacement bump that carried over into trucks/vans in 1998, IIRC. The truck, which is much more likely to be bouncing around, or off-kilter on a slope, as a 4x4, calls for less fluid with a smaller filter! For the same darn engine (although they are turned 90 deg relative to one another). Yet, the smaller capacity 3.3L had a higher OCI recommendation at 7.5k compared to the van for 5k miles, both for "regular" routines. Go figure.
21.gif


I know, my manipulation of the oil levels must be complete heresy!
 
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The Toyota pickups here have a bigger oil pan in the 4x4's and 1 qt more than their regular counterparts with the same engine.

I remember reading somewhere where someone was going to increase the oil capacity of vehicles that were normally used in leases by the "type" of person not likely to change oil. I have no idea whether this is actually done.
 
widman,

Do you have the complete list of the table that you posted (also with crossed ref'ed part numbers)?

Matt
 
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When I was a mod, we had discussed stickying a table that would show you all the thread/gasket/can combos out there. It was thought that it would ultimately be used to assert that there was some endorsement of altering from OEM spec's ..and the idea was rejected.
 
Thanks guys.

I wish there was a spreadsheet on the net that had all the specs on 'all' the oil filters with cross ref numbers. I realize this is probably impossible because different manufacturers varied specs on pressures and etc.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
I have often wanted to run a bigger oil filter on my Tacoma 2.4.


What year. 2004 2.4 uses a 3/16 thread filter with a 2.7x/2.4x gasket and carries a standard 8-11 bypass valve from WIX. It has a 2.9x" diameter can. A longer version would be the 51516 in Wix.


Hi Gary.

I almost forgot I posted in here...been pretty busy. I read your post and the others and someone mentioned that you have to worry about how much oil you're putting in so as not to drown the crankshaft. I understand that fear, but while my oil filter sits above the oil pan, whenever I change out the filter, it's always full of oil.

Would this mean that if I went to a larger filter of the proper specs, I wouldn't need to worry about the oil level in the pan?

Anywho....thanks for the feedback.

Oh, byt the way, I have a 96 Tacoma with the 2.4l. Also, I've been using the Mobil 1 Filters until I can find something that keeps the oil cleaner longer.
 
Hmm..

Although you wouldn't want a high speed crankshaft whipping up a Jersey shore taffy pull with the sump ..nor would you want such an elevated filter capacity that, when drained back/forward, would raise the sump to (or above) the main seal levels, I don't see this being an issue for consideration.
 
So basically, the oil wouldn't rise by going up a size?

Would one know which Mobil filter has the same inside specs besides the drainback valve of course? I'm assuming that is the only real thing to worry about. Not sure though. What does the resident expert think?
 
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