Oil Filter service interval

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quick_16

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OK Don't toss me under the train on this one...

I bought some bad boy SPF-1218 AC Delco filters and have been using them for 4 years now. Can't get them anymore. Based on Blackstone UOA I have determined I need to change the 10w30 oil ever 5k miles. As this filter is way better than the OEM in element quality and surface area, I have stated going two oil changes with one filter. I just pull the filter the 2nd oil change and drain in out and put it back on. This is on my 1998 C2500 Suburban with 5.7 Vortec diven is South FLA.

Anyone else doing this?

PS I cut one open that had gone 10k miles and it still looked perfect. Kind of thinking I left something on the table.

If the filter media is pretty clean and not caked up what is wrong with this practice?
 
My 1998 manual says 15,000 for filter changes in normal service. Mobil 1 Extended Performance says to run 15,000 with any oil filter. I don't see a problem with your program.
 
Based on Blackstone UOA I have determined I need to change the 10w30 oil ever 5k miles.

Looks like your oil is the limiting factor.
 
I'm OK with the short interval. It does have margin at the change. I use a name brand dyno oil at Costco. I'm using Shell Formula now. Before that it was Chevron 10w30. The TBN at 5444 miles was 1.5, but the Insolubles was low 0.4% and it had not sheared out of grade. I tow a 28' tag trailer a few time a month and the engine gets a real workout. 178k miles on this engine and knock on wood, it does not smoke or use a drop of oil. Must be lucky huuu
wink.gif
 
I'm planning to change my CR-V filter every other change per Honda recs.

Thank goodness too since it is relatively a PITA to deal with.

On my Civic, I'll do it per the Maintenance light, probably every other change.
 
I just cannot see trying to save the few dollars on a new oil filter vs reusing it. And its messy draining the old oil and screwing the old filter back in. I'd think in draining the old oil out, your bound to get some dirty oil in the "after the filter media" side of the filter. While it may never happen I'd also think the seal or o-ring is more likely to fail when unscrewed and the screwed back in.

If you want to save money get top quality synthetic oil and long life filters and go for extended oil changes.
 
Matt89, you said it with the CR-V filter. I have a 2005 and it makes a tremendous mess, ONCE you actually get a wrench in there and get it off. I've changed a lot of oil on a lot of cars and this is by far the very hardest.
 
Just remember that all oil filters with cellulose content don't like to be in use for more than a year. The acids (and the oil itself) start breaking down the cellulose and can lead to media failure.
 
Hey Chris!

quote:
I have a 2005 and it makes a tremendous mess, ONCE you actually get a wrench in there and get it off. I've changed a lot of oil on a lot of cars and this is by far the very hardest
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You ain't kidding, brother. Mine has an undercarriage splash guard that is right on the edge of catching the oil that comes off the filter. This splash guard is very efficient at keeping the spray outta the bottom of the engine compartment, but what a hassle! Sharp edges, low ground clearance and an impossible filter location (behind the passenger side front wheel) require me to jack the driver's side up, throw a jack stand under there, drop the car onto the stand, twisting and turning to get in there to change the oil and filter. The orientation of the plug and pan and filter make it quite awkward. My 92 was a ten minute procedure, no fuss no muss. This new one's a hassle. 5000 mile OCI will be most welcome.

Thankfully, my replacement Fumoto came this week enabling me to get that in place with this OCI. Only took two OEM crush washers (after removing their fragile, tender blue nylon washer) to orient the tap to the perfect position @ 40 lb.-ft torque. Wunnerful folks those Fumoto peeps, but THAT is another story!

My life is complete until next time.
 
Use a cordless 1/4-3/8ths drill bit to drill a hole at the bottom-side of the filter to aim it's oil contents in a non-messy direction - before spinning the filter off.

I do this with my Chevy Colorado filter after spending 10 minutes, five ounces of driveway cleaner & several rags cleaning the mess from the first-ever filter change. No more mess!

I also do it on my S-10 because the off-road cover underneath has a door that's not big enough to escape all the oil coming from the filter gasket area.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Donald:
I just cannot see trying to save the few dollars on a new oil filter vs reusing it. And its messy draining the old oil and screwing the old filter back in. I'd think in draining the old oil out, your bound to get some dirty oil in the "after the filter media" side of the filter. While it may never happen I'd also think the seal or o-ring is more likely to fail when unscrewed and the screwed back in.
Click to expand...
i dont think they would be taking off the filter. i think that kind of defeats the purpose of changing the filter every other time. i see it as, if its already off then might as well put a new one on it. i too would not be comfortable reusing a filter that came off the car.
 
I think I've come up with a cheap solution: get a smaller pie-tin from the grocery and hold that under the filter to catch that mess, eliminating it from going into the framerails, and making me think I'm leaking oil (freaked me out.)
Drilling a small hole is also a good idea. I used to jam a screwdriver into older Frams back in the day but that's real messy.
Running the Amsoil 0w30 for about 10-11k means once a year for this chore (provided I don't switch to Pennzoil Platinum 0w20, but I"ll still run that for 7500k).
 
quote:
Originally posted by XB70:
63Avanti,

Does that rating also apply to the MANN-made "Purolator" L40316?
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do not have a clue, I never used a purolator except the occational Pure 1.

I am refering to the cartridge filters, available by internet for $6.00, from Wix/NAPA for 7.00, from VW for 8.50, and from Fram/Purolator/Beck-Arney for $11 - $27.
 
quote:
O... I used to jam a screwdriver into older Frams back in the day but that's real messy.
Click to expand...
I thought I was the only one to use the screwdriver. Back in the seventies and before, Frams would sieze up, defeating most wrenches available at that time, no nice/cheap filter sockets back then. Finally I cout jab a screwdriver through the filter and use it to torque.
 
The MANN filter used for Mercedes and VW are rated for 50KM filter AND oil changes. But that is in Europe, here, VWOA sticks to 16km.
 
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