Oil filter housing threads damaged?

[xsr]

‎‏Hi everyone,

‎‏I did an oil change as always, but unfortunately this time I made a mistake and probably damaged the oil filter stud threads. The new filter wouldn’t thread on smoothly and became difficult at some point. I couldn’t get it to screw on fully. I tried to put the old filter back, but that was difficult as well.

Actually, I didn’t see any visible damage but I did find some metal shavings when cleaning the stud after failed installation.

‎‏I’m thinking about two options:

1. Getting a new oil filter housing.
‎‏I found the part number: PE01-14-311.

2. Trying to fix the threads with a thread file.

‎‏Can you tell me what the process of replacing the housing is?
‎‏Do I need to drain the coolant to remove this part?

‎‏I know I’ll need a new gasket if I go with the first option (PE01-14-342)

Car is 2016 Mazda 3 with 2.0L engine.

Thanks.

 

[rijndael]

I would try to fix the threads with a die, not a file.

I think it's an M20X1.5, but you should verify that.

 

[SC Maintenance]

How do you know the housing threads are damaged and it wasn't just a crappy oil filter thread - which is very, very common?

I would get another filter, run a specific thread chaser through it - Lisle makes them - and after your sure the filter thread is good then try threading that on. The local parts store should have a chaser - just make sure you have the correct thread.

If it is damaged housing I would get a die and go that route - not a file.

Honestly I don't think a crappy stamped steel oil filter thread would be hard enough to damage a properly tempered housing thread. The oil filters are intended for one time use and the reason they tell you to thread on 3/4 turn rather than a torque.

 

[Donald]

How do you know the housing threads are damaged and it wasn't just a crappy oil filter thread - which is very, very common?

I would get another filter, run a specific thread chaser through it - Lisle makes them - and after your sure the filter thread is good then try threading that on. The local parts store should have a chaser - just make sure you have the correct thread.

If it is damaged housing I would get a die and go that route - not a file.

Honestly I don't think a crappy stamped steel oil filter thread would be hard enough to damage a properly tempered housing thread. The oil filters are intended for one time use and the reason they tell you to thread on 3/4 turn rather than a torque.

I agree, unlikely the thread on the filter housing is really damaged.

You Dad is suppose to teach you about cross threading among other car related things when you are 15. The right of passage for a teen age mechanic.

 

[Trav]

Something like this will do the job, it is not the best quality but for limited use it will be okay. Just make sure you get get it started straight.
M20x1.5 is the size.

https://www.amazon.com/MateAuto-Ret...id=1762084144&sr=8-66&xpid=L_PQxKcJxWls_&th=1

 

[NibbanaBanana]

I galled up the threads on one of my Metros using crappy Fram filters. Also had a lot of trouble getting Fram to thread on my Nissan. That's one of the reasons I stopped using Fram.

Get a die and rethread the thing. Just blow off the chips real good and you'll be fine.

 

[xsr]

So it turns out that the problem was the filter itself. I bought a new OEM Mazda filter and it’s screwed on perfectly.

Thank you for the great advice!

 

[D60]

The set Trav linked is awesome because it has a "socket" to turn the die/rethreader.

An M20 is gonna take a large hex many DIYers may not have, so this is a considerable bonus IMO.

If using a ratchet be wary of off-axis force until the die has started square and most of its threads are engaged. There's a reason tap and die wrenches are "equal" with left and right handles -- it allows you better control to avoid cocking the cutting tool.

 

[Dave Hess]

I would try to fix the threads with a die, not a file.

I think it's an M20X1.5, but you should verify that.

Yes. You are correct.

 

[FowVay]

Darn. Here I had gone to the trouble of getting you the updated part number for the housing, the housing gasket, the torque specs for the three bolts that hold it on and the part number for the OEM oil filter. All for nought. Well, I'm glad you resolved the problem with a simple solution.

 

[Donald]

And then there are people who fill the filter with oil before screwing it on. I do this with my PSD.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

I would stick with OEM Mazda filters from here on out. At least you know you won't run into any troubles down the line. Just my 2cents.