Agreed. Just because you could do it yourself doesn't mean you always should. Sometimes it just makes more sense to pay the pro to do it instead of experimenting.
Repairing damaged manifold stud and smoothing surface
- Thread starter JHZR2
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SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Also seizes to near impossible to separate. Really surprised to see s/s installed in cast metal or other material unless it was done by an Indy shop at some point or maybe as a Diyer job at home. Sure , no rust but never good if one plans to separate or take apart again years later.
I second this (electrical discharge machining).
All depends on what stainless it is, stainless can gall real easy too.
In this case edm won't do anything special a drill and boring end mill can't do.
It just won't happen on a drill press.
In this case edm won't do anything special a drill and boring end mill can't do.
It just won't happen on a drill press.
This is a long shot, and it sounds as though you have other good options, but I wonder whether you could thread a deep nut onto the stud, leaving enough female threads to be able to then thread in a hollow drill guide.
You could then accurately drill out the centre of the stud, and then hopefully the stud could be removed with a LH drill bit.
You could then accurately drill out the centre of the stud, and then hopefully the stud could be removed with a LH drill bit.
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LOVE the drill guides. Can those be purchased, or are they custom made?
I've got a set of drill guide bushings I made for Windsor water pumps
But, they can be purchased. Or anyone with a lathe can center drill a bolt.
OP already has it on the bench. Anyone with a mill or a drill press and a good eye can make this painless.
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I've seen guide bushings - but not bolts that could be used directly on the stud if there's threads left.I've got a set of drill guide bushings I made for Windsor water pumps
But, they can be purchased. Or anyone with a lathe can center drill a bolt.
OP already has it on the bench. Anyone with a mill or a drill press and a good eye can make this painless.
Drilling a bolt freehand is a talent that few have, it's like like drawing a straight line freehand.
I've known people with the knack, but not many.
This is most definitely a solvable problem.
THe best method is center drilling, as others have indicated.
Heating the stud doesn't really work; you really need to heat the manifold, not the stud.
The stud is already ruined, so the main thing is just not hurting the manifold. Put your chaser or other harder nut on the stud, put a socket over it, and hit it with a bolt breaker with a good, hard-hitting air hammer.
I've never had the bolt breaker+heat method fail. Vibration is the most effective and reliable rust-break I've found.
THe best method is center drilling, as others have indicated.
Heating the stud doesn't really work; you really need to heat the manifold, not the stud.
The stud is already ruined, so the main thing is just not hurting the manifold. Put your chaser or other harder nut on the stud, put a socket over it, and hit it with a bolt breaker with a good, hard-hitting air hammer.
I've never had the bolt breaker+heat method fail. Vibration is the most effective and reliable rust-break I've found.
JHZR2
Staff member
I made my own.
I know I had a slight leak in my 1991 MB 300D. I could smell it when stopped, and my smoke machine confirmed it.
I took some time off today to remove the turbo and manifold. It was an ok job other than a few lousy bolt locations and a tight space.
Cylinder number five was all sooted up. This is where I had found the leak.
I thought there was mild seepage from the turbo gasket. I saw some signs of that too.
All the exhaust bolts were loose, or I should say, came out easily. One snapped, or was broken already. It was on the...
I took some time off today to remove the turbo and manifold. It was an ok job other than a few lousy bolt locations and a tight space.
Cylinder number five was all sooted up. This is where I had found the leak.
I thought there was mild seepage from the turbo gasket. I saw some signs of that too.
All the exhaust bolts were loose, or I should say, came out easily. One snapped, or was broken already. It was on the...
Did so because I was in a pinch. Found them cheap on Amazon or eBay after that…
Yeah. My hope was that heating the stud would have helped break the bond and also pump enough heat into the manifold to expand it a bit.
Of course the turbo flange is angled so drilling through could be a bit risky. I’d probably cut it to just a thread or two and then use a nut as a guide to ensure centering.
Theres no nut seized on. But hammering the stud directly is probably fine at this point.
Thing is if I could chase the threads with a die, and get them reasonably functionally, perhaps my best bet to avoid issues and another six months of sitting with no time is to just try to sand it flat between the studs and rely on a compliant gasket and some copper gasket coat to cover the irregularities.
JHZR2
Staff member
Closing out this thread and going back to the broken stud removal thread. I got two out with mapp gas and the back and forth motion using my Hazet tool.
One broke below the surface, the other broke above. I kind of wish both had broken below the surface. The one then some above surface is in a blind hole.
This thread was good for a time when I thought I was going to reuse studs. I’m not. So I’d ask that the thread continue on the other one.
When the time comes to resurface I may re-open this.
One broke below the surface, the other broke above. I kind of wish both had broken below the surface. The one then some above surface is in a blind hole.
This thread was good for a time when I thought I was going to reuse studs. I’m not. So I’d ask that the thread continue on the other one.
When the time comes to resurface I may re-open this.
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