Hello.
I have owned my 2008 Nissan Micra (also known as Nissan March) from new. I live in England, by the way.
It has an all-alloy 4-cylinder inline gasoline engine with a chain-driven twin-cam 16v fitted with a Renault 5-speed manual transmission and 1240cc. Valve actuation is done by bucket & shim. The tech spec of its engine is just about as typical as they come. The only interesting bit about this engine is that it's made in Japan by a company that only makes a few different engine types which are (I believe) exclusively used by Nissan. Most of the rest of the car is derived from the parent company's Mk3 Renault Clio.
Aside from some early timing chain wear problems - completely resolved in a 2005 redesign - it's practically bullet proof.
So I've been a nearly daily visitor to this site for the past five years. Recently I read a post where someone states that they'd happily run their car with 'No Oil Filter'. Well, I am going to do just that...
I am going to cut an already short filter at the base, remove ALL of the filter's internals and rejoin in a 'short as possible' way it with engineering adhesive and with fresh 'VISCOL' Fully Synthetic Dexos-2 5W/30 @ £13.95 for 4.5 liters ($17.46 USD).
This will be done over Easter when the car will just pass the 50,000-mile point.
A few things:
1. I'm doing this just for the 'let's see what'll happen. I am just as oil filter/engine oil obsessed as the next guy on this website. I love buying different make oil filters. I love the internal combustion engine. I love reading just about any automobile engineering related article.
2. I don't mind if the engine seizes at the 50.002-mile point. There's a pristine 17.000-mile 2010 engine in my workshop and I've been repairing cars as my job since 1980 so fitting it will be easy enough, my oldish age notwithstanding.
3. I know the cut & shut method using an engineering adhesive will work. I have used it in an earlier 'let's see if my VW ever goes into bypass mode experiment. I opened the filter to fit a micro-switch device. It didn't BTW...
4. I will drive it as I have always done. That is, mostly urban 12-mile twice daily with weekend motorway journeys of around 80-miles per trip. But I do drive like a kitten.
5. I'll keep you chaps updated. I intend to strip the engine at the 100,000-mile point. All comments are welcome, but please go easy, it's my first ever BITOG post...
6. If this has already been done, I'll scrap the plan.
Thanks for reading and apologies for the post's ponderous style; I have a very poorly-functioning endocrine system (eg almost zero testosterone production) and defective hypothalamus as well as being prescribed tons of opiate (read elephant-grade) medication for an accident I had when I used to run my own Citroen mechanical repair business. So, I am a bit weird
Thank you.
I have owned my 2008 Nissan Micra (also known as Nissan March) from new. I live in England, by the way.
It has an all-alloy 4-cylinder inline gasoline engine with a chain-driven twin-cam 16v fitted with a Renault 5-speed manual transmission and 1240cc. Valve actuation is done by bucket & shim. The tech spec of its engine is just about as typical as they come. The only interesting bit about this engine is that it's made in Japan by a company that only makes a few different engine types which are (I believe) exclusively used by Nissan. Most of the rest of the car is derived from the parent company's Mk3 Renault Clio.
Aside from some early timing chain wear problems - completely resolved in a 2005 redesign - it's practically bullet proof.
So I've been a nearly daily visitor to this site for the past five years. Recently I read a post where someone states that they'd happily run their car with 'No Oil Filter'. Well, I am going to do just that...
I am going to cut an already short filter at the base, remove ALL of the filter's internals and rejoin in a 'short as possible' way it with engineering adhesive and with fresh 'VISCOL' Fully Synthetic Dexos-2 5W/30 @ £13.95 for 4.5 liters ($17.46 USD).
This will be done over Easter when the car will just pass the 50,000-mile point.
A few things:
1. I'm doing this just for the 'let's see what'll happen. I am just as oil filter/engine oil obsessed as the next guy on this website. I love buying different make oil filters. I love the internal combustion engine. I love reading just about any automobile engineering related article.
2. I don't mind if the engine seizes at the 50.002-mile point. There's a pristine 17.000-mile 2010 engine in my workshop and I've been repairing cars as my job since 1980 so fitting it will be easy enough, my oldish age notwithstanding.
3. I know the cut & shut method using an engineering adhesive will work. I have used it in an earlier 'let's see if my VW ever goes into bypass mode experiment. I opened the filter to fit a micro-switch device. It didn't BTW...
4. I will drive it as I have always done. That is, mostly urban 12-mile twice daily with weekend motorway journeys of around 80-miles per trip. But I do drive like a kitten.
5. I'll keep you chaps updated. I intend to strip the engine at the 100,000-mile point. All comments are welcome, but please go easy, it's my first ever BITOG post...
6. If this has already been done, I'll scrap the plan.
Thanks for reading and apologies for the post's ponderous style; I have a very poorly-functioning endocrine system (eg almost zero testosterone production) and defective hypothalamus as well as being prescribed tons of opiate (read elephant-grade) medication for an accident I had when I used to run my own Citroen mechanical repair business. So, I am a bit weird
Thank you.