Oil filter/Cooler layout/order?

[D Hill]

Hello, everyone. I am going to be repairing/upgrading my cooling system on my 89'F150 (300 C.I. I-6) in the next few weeks. While I'm at it I am going to put in an oil cooler, as well as a bypass filter setup and perhaps remotely locate my filter. My question is this; Is there any particular order I should have these in? Should I put them before the cooler or after? Does it matter?

I wanted to get it all straightend out as I will be doing pretty much the same thing to my T-bird and my wife's Cougar, and eventually to my F350 PSD. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Dennis

 

[greencrew]

I think the by-pass is a great idea for the truck, but why the cooler? Is your oil runnig hot?

It's best to put a temp valve in that only sends oil to the cooler when it is hot enough.

 

[D Hill]

Actually, I am uncertain, as I only have a oil pressure guage right now. But, if previous oil tests are any indication, then no it doesn't run hot. The main reason I was thinking of putting an oil cooler on it was that I have to tow an Airstream I just aquired. Under normal circumstances I would use my F350 to tow anything but I was just rear ended last week by some **** in an Excursion who was too busy on the phone to do something like, you know, drive. Caused 6k in damage and my baby's by-by for the better part of a month. I've towed big stuff in the pastin this truck (my 21 ft Sea Ray) with no problems and a surprising amount of power left to spare, but that was only from Philly to the NJ shore (about 60 flat miles). I'll have to bring it up from VA (300 miles, relatively flat) so I'd rather play it safe. I agree about oil temp issue, so I was looking at coolers with cold oil bypass features. The ones I have been looking at bypass oil below 180*. Would this suffice?

Thanks,

Dennis

 

[greencrew]

180 sound about right. I suppose the cold oil could by-pass the by-pass filter also until it get hotter than 180. In that case the cooler would come first.

That would not be the case for a remote filter though, as you would want the oil filtered by the full flow filter all the time.

I would think all you need is a by-pass filter. I run this one with 8 quarts of oil.

[ August 21, 2003, 11:41 PM: Message edited by: greencrew ]

 

[ssnsltd]

I just put in a Frantz and oil cooler.
I put the Frantz/bypass first, that way there is little or no preasure in the oil cooler and lines leading too/from. Less chance of a spill that way.

 

[D Hill]

Where did you locate your low pressure return for your franz? I was speaking to the folks at Oil Guard and they said I should put the return into the valve cover or oil pan, or oil fill. Of course, this would require drilling, of which I'm less than keen about. Esp. if I would have to start taking off valve covers or oil pans.

 

[Ken2]

Thin oil filters better than thick oil, so you want to filter the oil before it goes through the cooler.


Ken

 

[ssnsltd]

I have my return going through what was the fresh air intake port on the valve cover.
On a jeep cherokee, there are three ports in the valve cover. I got an oil filler cap that breaths to make up for the lost air intake port.
The set up works great. I also used a clear return hose so I can see the oil running through the return line.

[ August 24, 2003, 05:53 PM: Message edited by: ssnsltd ]

 

[Pablo]

Seperately.

Oil cooler with 180°F thermostat on stack up adapter between block and filter.

Remote oil filter oil 100% of time. Adapter where filter would go, except now on top of oil cooler take off.

Adapt bypass filter wherever and as stated return oil via valve cover.

 

[Gary Allan]

You guys have got me confused

I have a dual filter set up ...and I have the cooler and thermostat parts yet to be installed.

If I run the cooler "full flow" ...I just unhook my return line to the oil filter adapter ...run it to the cooler ...run the cooler to the oil filter adapter.

If I run the thermostat ...I run it exactly the same way ...except that the thermostat is inline between the filter and the cooler forming a "T" (an effective 2 way valve = A-B or A-C). The base of the "T" is then hosed to another "T" that is inline with the cooler return line and the return fitting on the oil filter adapter.


You've got some stuff there that just is not getting through the fog that my head appears to generate. Maybe it's the integration of a by-pass filter that is screwing me up. In that case I would merely replace one of my full flow filters with a bypass filter.

 

[greencrew]

According to my understand of what you are working with, my reading of this thread and other threads I understand it like this. You have two options.

1) The by-pass filter is over-kill for your needs unless you are racing 200 laps at close to WOT. Stick with the by-pass.

2) If you want the cooler installed then do so according to your second description. You don't want to run a cooler full flow all the time. You do want the oil to flow to the dual filter full time.

 

[Gary Allan]

Why would one have to route the bypass filter to the valve cover? With a "dual" setup anyway? The thing should work just fine sitting right next to a full flow.

btw- in regard to coolers and remote setups ..I know what I'm doing ...I'm just trying to figure out where you guys (some) are coming from.