Oil filter by pass valve differences

[Bman90]

I read through several topics regarding this and It seems people are split on a decision.

Honda OEM Filter: 12-14 psi
Wix XP: 8-11 psi
K&N: 11-17 psi
Fram Racing: 16-28 psi

That is a drastic difference between the Wix and the Frame as it’s nearly 2-3 times as much. The reason why I narrowed it down to 2 filters is because the Wix has a burst pressure rating of 363 psi and the Fram is 350. I think there’s also an AEM filter with no by pass valve.

The application is for spirited driving, daily driving and occasional racing.

 

[Brian123]

What might help is a Pic of your car and then I can tell you if you would benefit from the Fram Racing Filter!

 

[Hall]

Use the Honda filter. Don't get hung up on numbers and the hunt for "the best". Honda wants the bypass to open at 12 psi but the Fram won't open until 16 psi. Does that matter ? Maybe, maybe not.... No one here knows, but Honda specs things for a reason. Then again, they use that same filter on every automobile engine produced for the NA market and it's a "one size fits all" situation.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I am no expert on this topic but have been told on this site that the filter media itself and the delta P in flow across that media has something to do with the bypass pressure - so its not quite as simple as a OEM spec. I presume someone else can explain it better.

BTW - what is a Fram racing filter?

 

[blufeb95]

BTW - what is a Fram racing filter?

Essentially a better built version of an extra gaurd meant for racing applications, They have more media, metal end caps, a heavier can, a screen over the bypass, and in the case of the HP17 vs ph7317 a higher bypass, I'd compare it to an Extragaurd since the media is only ~94% efficient at 20 microns.

 

[blufeb95]

Essentially a better built version of an extra gaurd meant for racing applications, They have more media, metal end caps, a heavier can, a screen over the bypass, and in the case of the HP17 vs ph7317 a higher bypass, I'd compare it to an Extragaurd since the media is only ~94% efficient at 20 microns.

I don't specifically know about the more media part, I had up the specs page for the HP17 and for some reason thought that the video was an HP19.

 

[Bman90]

What might help is a Pic of your car and then I can tell you if you would benefit from the Fram Racing Filter!

Here.

2020 Accord 2.0t upgraded turbo, full exhaust, tuned on flex fuel/e85 estimated power is 400 horsepower and 400 torque. Tires are 255/35/19 if I punch it from 40-45 mph when merging onto the highway I break the tires loose. It’s a fun car. I’m waiting for the track to open up soon hopefully I’ll be in the 12s somewhere.

 

[Bman90]

I agree with that to an extent. Honda calls for 0w20 oil and we all know that with the direct injection it’s probably not a good idea unless you’re changing oil more frequently. Mine sheared from a 20 weight to a 16 in 2100 miles.

 

[flash7210]

The bypass isn't gonna open unless the oil is cold and thick or the the filter media is packed full of crud.
Just make sure the engine/oil is warmed up before before you go pushing it on the track.

 

[cheesepuffs2]

The bypass isn't gonna open unless the oil is cold and thick or the the filter media is packed full of crud.
Just make sure the engine/oil is warmed up before before you go pushing it on the track.

I've heard conflicting things about bypass and I don't even know what to believe anymore. I was taught, and maintained for years, that a bypass valve in a filter will only open if the filter has been run for too long and the media is packed full.

But I listened to a podcast recently where a Valvoline employee (not an Instant Oil Change employee, but Valvoline in Lexington, KY) said that you'd be surprised how much a filter runs in bypass, that it's basically always hitting bypass in cold starts until the oil thins out with temp, and that bypass also occurs frequently just at full throttle under normal conditions.

 

[Greasymechtech]

The engine is modified so what Honda calls for is pretty much meaningless for interval/grade....

Fuel dilution, especially with high ethanol content, can be addressed by using 40 grades or simply stepping up the HTHS ladder until you're content with UOA data. Yes, you need UOA data to pick your viscosity.

Same fuel dilution will require considerably shorter oil change intervals.

Oil filter bypass occurs more often than most here want to admit, especially with cellulose media.

Bypass valve pressure is NOT a deciding factor for filter selection. Your car requires a BPV is all that you need to know, and you pick the brand's filter PN that is recommended for that engine.

My recommendation will be full synthetic media to eliminate the cellulose negatives. So, use the WixXP, Napa Platinum, Purolator Boss, Fram Endurance FE, Amsoil, RoyalPurple, Ryco Syntec..... synthetic media filters.

I've used the Fram racing filters over the years. Its a stout filter but there isn't a need for it. It sure is pricey for blended media filtration.

The only other recommendation that I would make is a single/dual remotely mounted oil filter kit.
If there is limited space for a remote mount, or you don't want to tackle a remote filter kit installation, then stick with a filter PN recommended for the engine.

I just didn't see any room for a larger diameter filter the last time I looked briefly at a 2.0T. If so, I'd upsize to a 3593a/9688... filter. But, I'd wager there isn't much room for the diameter but is worth a fitment trial.

Don't forget the magnetic drainplug from PSR, Votex, Dimpleplug or Goldplug. And, since the filter is magnet friendly, you can DIY yourself or install a Filtermag. Cut filter open for inspection.

Data needed:
Visual magnetic drainplug contents.
Cut open filters for media inspection condition, contents, and filtermag outline.
UOA data with fuel content, ending viscosity, unfiltered metal levels, oxidation/nitration.
Oil PSI and oil temp logging during 400hp 'fun time'.

Then, you can determine your interval, oil grade, and filtration upgrades, if any are needed.

 

[Bman90]

The engine is modified so what Honda calls for is pretty much meaningless for interval/grade....

Fuel dilution, especially with high ethanol content, can be addressed by using 40 grades or simply stepping up the HTHS ladder until you're content with UOA data. Yes, you need UOA data to pick your viscosity.

Same fuel dilution will require considerably shorter oil change intervals.

Oil filter bypass occurs more often than most here want to admit, especially with cellulose media.

Bypass valve pressure is NOT a deciding factor for filter selection. Your car requires a BPV is all that you need to know, and you pick the brand's filter PN that is recommended for that engine.

My recommendation will be full synthetic media to eliminate the cellulose negatives. So, use the WixXP, Napa Platinum, Purolator Boss, Fram Endurance FE, Amsoil, RoyalPurple, Ryco Syntec..... synthetic media filters.

I've used the Fram racing filters over the years. Its a stout filter but there isn't a need for it. It sure is pricey for blended media filtration.

The only other recommendation that I would make is a single/dual remotely mounted oil filter kit.
If there is limited space for a remote mount, or you don't want to tackle a remote filter kit installation, then stick with a filter PN recommended for the engine.

I just didn't see any room for a larger diameter filter the last time I looked briefly at a 2.0T. If so, I'd upsize to a 3593a/9688... filter. But, I'd wager there isn't much room for the diameter but is worth a fitment trial.

Don't forget the magnetic drainplug from PSR, Votex, Dimpleplug or Goldplug. And, since the filter is magnet friendly, you can DIY yourself or install a Filtermag. Cut filter open for inspection.

Data needed:
Visual magnetic drainplug contents.
Cut open filters for media inspection condition, contents, and filtermag outline.
UOA data with fuel content, ending viscosity, unfiltered metal levels, oxidation/nitration.
Oil PSI and oil temp logging during 400hp 'fun time'.

Then, you can determine your interval, oil grade, and filtration upgrades, if any are needed.

Thanks for all the info. What are the main negatives of a cellulose medium? It seems Fram uses a combination of the two but manages to get the most flow out of any filters in the same category. You are correct there isn’t any room to fit a larger filter.

 

[twX]

I've heard conflicting things about bypass and I don't even know what to believe anymore. I was taught, and maintained for years, that a bypass valve in a filter will only open if the filter has been run for too long and the media is packed full.

But I listened to a podcast recently where a Valvoline employee (not an Instant Oil Change employee, but Valvoline in Lexington, KY) said that you'd be surprised how much a filter runs in bypass, that it's basically always hitting bypass in cold starts until the oil thins out with temp, and that bypass also occurs frequently just at full throttle under normal conditions.

I had a discussion on that topic recently in this thread, and came to the conclusion that a filter with sufficiently low restriction and high bypass setting will never bypass oil even when the oil is thick (at least until it gets sufficiently clogged). This is due to the fact that the oil pump will always start bypassing before the filter does, which limits the flow and differential pressure across the filter.

A filter that is undersized for the application (high restriction/low bypass pressure) will always bypass before the oil pump does, and will bypass every time the oil is sufficiently cold, and possibly even with warm oil at high rpm. This seems to be the case for Subarus when using most aftermarket filters in the recommended models, with lower bypass settings than the OEM 23 psi.

I read through several topics regarding this and It seems people are split on a decision.

Honda OEM Filter: 12-14 psi
Wix XP: 8-11 psi
K&N: 11-17 psi
Fram Racing: 16-28 psi

I would recommend a filter with a bypass setting of 12-14 psi or higher. It's not like they are difficult to find. There is no harm in using a filter with a higher bypass setting than OEM. A lower bypass setting is fine, but only if the filter has less restriction than the OEM filter.

The PurolatorOne PL14610 has a bypass setting of 14-18 psi, a lot of media area, and is rated 99% at 20 micron. This filter should flow well enough to never bypass any oil. It's the filter I'm switching to in my Subaru, since it seems to flow more before bypassing than any other high-efficiency filter that has a M20x1.5mm thread (aside from the FRAM Racing, which is difficult to find at a decent price). The burst pressure on PurolatorOne filters is usually only 250 psi, but that's probably still around 3 times your engine's maximum oil pressure.

 

[MSCH]

at a certain point, once you realize the main purpose of the oil filter bypass is to allow oil to bypass a restricted filter, you should realize a nominal difference in the setpoint between any brand is inconsequential... Filter will only bypass for 2 reasons I can think of, being really cold and oil flow is sluggish thru the filter until oil temperature reaches a certain level or the filter is plugged. Filter being plugged is bad but the flow being restricted because of cold temps is just one of those things.

 

[fantastic]

The Fram Racing filter probably never go into bypass since it's PSI relief is high & efficiency low. It would be my choice on your Honda.

 

[ZeeOSix]

The Fram Racing filter probably never go into bypass since it's PSI relief is high & efficiency low. It would be my choice on your Honda.

Fram Racing filter is 94% @ 20 ... not really what I'd call "low efficiency".

 

[Brian123]

Here.

2020 Accord 2.0t upgraded turbo, full exhaust, tuned on flex fuel/e85 estimated power is 400 horsepower and 400 torque. Tires are 255/35/19 if I punch it from 40-45 mph when merging onto the highway I break the tires loose. It’s a fun car. I’m waiting for the track to open up soon hopefully I’ll be in the 12s somewhere.

Amazing, if this were a V8, we would be talking about 800 Horsepower, how many quarts of oil does this engine hold? Another question, how much does your car weigh?

 

[fantastic]

Fram Racing filter is 94% @ 20 ... not really what I'd call "low efficiency".

View attachment 147129

The Fram Racing filter is lower when i'm comparing it to a 99%@20 oil filter. That was what was in my head at the time. Low efficiency to me is 30@99% & Really Low efficiency would be like 50%@20. lol So, this filter would not necessarily be classified as a low efficient filter in an all out battle of all filters sampled.

 

[Bman90]

Amazing, if this were a V8, we would be talking about 800 Horsepower, how many quarts of oil does this engine hold? Another question, how much does your car weigh?

It’s not too bad. I need to keep the horsepower modest on mine because it also doubles as a daily driver. The new bolt on turbos that just came out are making north of 500 horsepower (rated for over 600) a few Civic Type R’s are pushing around 600 horsepower on factory bottom ends. With a sleeved block we will begin seeing 1000 horsepower cars on these platforms soon. JSR engines sleeves these blocks for cheap. Hondas have made 1200-1300 horsepower on sleeved blocks. After that you need a billet block. Speed Factory’s Honda makes 2000 horsepower (without nitrous) it ran a 6.91 @ 198 mph lifting after a 1000 feet. On a full pass that should be a 6.7-6.8 second car. Sorry for going off topic lol.

 

[Bman90]

I discovered this oil filter analysis it’s a bit outdated but still has some useful information.

HP1 Filters - Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources