Oil Extractor - problems with Subaru Forester?

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Apr 6, 2005
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Boston, MA
I just got a Lumax 1314 extractor and tried it in for a 2021 Forester Touring's first oil change.

I drove around, warmed up the engine, and used the Extractor as directed. I was only able to pull out 2qt., and the manual said the capacity was 4.4qt. I tried all the tubes, and was able to push them all the way down. I initially used the manual mode. Then tried the pneumatic mode, which got me maybe some more, but not by much. I ended up lifting the car over jacks, removing the engine oil flap and drain bolt - got just over 2 qts. out.

I tested the suction with the oil in the drain pan, and it was able to pull everything out.


I was disappointed with this, has anyone had success with extractors with Subarus?

On the plus side, I spilled a lot less oil from the drain pan. And I really liked being able to change the oil filter from the engine bay.
 
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I have learned to fish the smallest tube around. Sometime you get stuck on something, sometimes you push in too far and it turns vertical.
I use the dipstick as an approximation of proper depth.

Good luck.
 
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Ontario, Canada
I just got a Lumax 1314 extractor and tried it in for a 2021 Forester Touring's first oil change.

I drove around, warmed up the engine, and used the Extractor as directed. I was only able to pull out 2qt., and the manual said the capacity was 4.4qt. I tried all the tubes, and was able to push them all the way down. I initially used the manual mode. Then tried the pneumatic mode, which got me maybe some more, but not by much. I ended up lifting the car over jacks, removing the engine oil flap and drain bolt - got just over 2 qts. out.

I tested the suction with the oil in the drain pan, and it was able to pull everything out.


I was disappointed with this, has anyone had success with extractors with Subarus?

On the plus side, I spilled a lot less oil from the drain pan. And I really liked being able to change the oil filter from the engine bay.
Not all cars are suitable for this kind of extraction, some not at all.
You may have to try different tubes, but in general the problem is the oil-pan. I'd also try a Mity-Vac before throwing the sponge, just to be sure.
 
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subaru the dipstick goes in at bad angle.. oil extractors dont work worth a darn.

No luck on 2011 forester 2015 forester or 2013 outback.. would get about half the oil out.

Also at least on those the drain was a 45degree angle to the front so ramps made less drain out :(
I wasnt ocd about it if it bothered me I just changed it early.
 
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Joined
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It doesn’t work on the FB engines for the reasons mentioned above. You might get 1-2 quarts, if at all.
 
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yep, everyone above is correct. My '08 Outback would be good for about 2 quarts extracted using the mity vac.
 

Zicco Fen

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Thank you for your resposes. I wasn't sure if this was an equipment or user error. I'm glad I am not the only one with issues using it with a Subaru.

I rarely go to dealers anymore unless it's a recall or warranty. To be honest, at $140, I had high hopes of this eliminating my need to open the drain plugs. I am debating on keeping it vs returning it...not sure if there will be issues with draining other fluids - differential, ps, brake, atf, coolant, etc.

Does anyone know if these work well with the Honda vehicles?

I have had experience with the Fumoto on a 1999 Accord , but I did not like how it jutted out, additionally, many independent mechanics were hesitant to work with it due to liability if the valve was not closed properly. Heck, I even had to sign a disclaimer at one shop.

If I do end up going for a quick drain valve, I am considering a Stahlbus M16-1.5 valve, hopefully, it will be less of an issue. If I dont go down that way, at the least I will look for a compatible drain plug with a 17mm head..the 2021 Subaru Forester engines have a 14mm plug at an angle, and it's almost impossible to take out without stripping it.
 

SammyChevelleTypeS3

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Those extractors work great on all of my Hondas so far. They were also good for brake bleeding and flushing in the past when I used to do them myself. I used them to drain and flush transaxles and power steering pumps also. To get them down the tube on the Hondas takes a slow twisting approach or they can hang up. usually pull it back and start again but they do get down there and get most of the oil out. We even pulled the plugs a few times in the begining to satisfy ourselves they were not leaving much behind.
 
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Thank you for your resposes. I wasn't sure if this was an equipment or user error. I'm glad I am not the only one with issues using it with a Subaru.

I rarely go to dealers anymore unless it's a recall or warranty. To be honest, at $140, I had high hopes of this eliminating my need to open the drain plugs. I am debating on keeping it vs returning it...not sure if there will be issues with draining other fluids - differential, ps, brake, atf, coolant, etc.

Does anyone know if these work well with the Honda vehicles?

I have had experience with the Fumoto on a 1999 Accord , but I did not like how it jutted out, additionally, many independent mechanics were hesitant to work with it due to liability if the valve was not closed properly. Heck, I even had to sign a disclaimer at one shop.

If I do end up going for a quick drain valve, I am considering a Stahlbus M16-1.5 valve, hopefully, it will be less of an issue. If I dont go down that way, at the least I will look for a compatible drain plug with a 17mm head..the 2021 Subaru Forester engines have a 14mm plug at an angle, and it's almost impossible to take out without stripping it.
I use the MityVac on 3 Acura TSX with the mighty K24, a '98 Accord LX, 2013 Civic LX and a 2019 CR-V EX-L.
I love my MityVac.

1641090803329.jpg
 
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To be honest, I have never been a huge fan of topside oil changes. I think they give DIYers an excuse to not perform a proper safety inspection of the vehicle- which is something that should be done at every maintenance interval.
 

Zicco Fen

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To be honest, I have never been a huge fan of topside oil changes. I think they give DIYers an excuse to not perform a proper safety inspection of the vehicle- which is something that should be done at every maintenance interval.
What do you check for?
I focus on areas specific to engine oil and transmission - leaks around the pan, the drain plugs, oil filter.

I feel claustrophobic and anxious when I get down there - whether the vehicle is on the ramps or jack stands - try to do my work and get out from under the vehicle. But if I build a checklist, I could manage it better.
 
Joined
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Messages
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What do you check for?
I focus on areas specific to engine oil and transmission - leaks around the pan, the drain plugs, oil filter.

I feel claustrophobic and anxious when I get down there - whether the vehicle is on the ramps or jack stands - try to do my work and get out from under the vehicle. But if I build a checklist, I could manage it better.
I like this one:

 

Zicco Fen

Thread starter
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Those extractors work great on all of my Hondas so far. They were also good for brake bleeding and flushing in the past when I used to do them myself. I used them to drain and flush transaxles and power steering pumps also. To get them down the tube on the Hondas takes a slow twisting approach or they can hang up. usually pull it back and start again but they do get down there and get most of the oil out. We even pulled the plugs a few times in the begining to satisfy ourselves they were not leaving much behind.
Is it okay to extract ATF fluid this way?
 
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Best solution for the Subaru is a Fumoto drain valve. I've installed one on every Suburu we've owned, easy drain with less mess.
Fumotos are really meant for stationary motors, it's way too easy to get it open by snagging something with a moving platform.
 
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Have you extracted the ATF fluid via the extractor?
I did on my grand niece's '13 Civic LX. Worked great. Of course cleaning the magnetic drain plug is part of the service, so there's that. But I have found after the 1st service the plug does not capture that much.

I think I tried the TSX, it did not work as well. But heck, even a 2 quart spill and fill in is an easy service.
In my experience, a transmission service is hit had miss with the MityVac. I will have to try more...
When I flush brakes, the MityVac does a great job of emptying the master reservoir.

Perhaps my favorite part of using a MityVac is expelling the old fluid into a recycle milk jug. Just flip the switch to reverse the flow. So easy and mess free!
 

Zicco Fen

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Well this advive did help today, thank you. I put my Odyssey on the ramps and did an inspection, I did find a few clips missing and the plastic trays hanging. I was in a collision some time ago and the front bumper was replaced, it's likely they have been missing since then.

I was able to get 4.4 or 4.5 qts of engine oil via the extractor. I was happy with that.

I did my first transmission flush. Took some effort to get the plug. I emptied 3.3 qts as expected, cleaned the metal fillings and then tightened the drain plug back. I tried to open the ATF fill plug, and broke the ratchet in the process, and lost the 17mm socket somewhere down the bay 😳.

I still need to do the other two flushes...is it okay to use the extractor to drain the fluid, or should I go get the 3/8" ratchet first? I dont know if pulling the ATF fluid via the dipstick will get the 3.3qt, and if there will be metal shavings so soon again.

What do you recommend for a good ratchet and socket set for DIY? Should I go for hand tools or power tools? I have an impact driver, but not an impact wrench, and often do not find enough space in the vehicles. But then again, I was cursing and upset when these bolts don't open!
 
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