Oil drain plug torque value for a 2025 Subaru Crosstrek?

Joined
Oct 25, 2014
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170
Location
GA
Hello all,

I traded in my 2015 Crosstrek for a 2025. I want to do the first OC at approximately 2K miles. On the ‘15 the torque value was 30.8 ft. pds. Can anyone confirm if it’s still the same on the ‘25?

Also, 0W-16! Dear Lord, hope I don’t drink it thinking it’s tea.
 
If you use the oe style crush washers that actually crush... its easy to tell when its done crushing.. that's when I stop.
 
Never torqued a drain plug in my life. Go by feel. When I was a kid rebuilding junkyard engines, ( they were always rusty inside from laying around in the rain ), I used to torque the bearing caps and rod caps after rebuild, that's it. EVERTHING else was done by feel. Nowadays, the ONLY thing I ever torque are lug nuts. You DO NOT want to over tighten those. Then, SNAP ! The wheel fly's off on a sharp turn. :(
 
Never torqued a drain plug in my life. Go by feel. When I was a kid rebuilding junkyard engines, ( they were always rusty inside from laying around in the rain ), I used to torque the bearing caps and rod caps after rebuild, that's it. EVERTHING else was done by feel. Nowadays, the ONLY thing I ever torque are lug nuts. You DO NOT want to over tighten those. Then, SNAP ! The wheel fly's off on a sharp turn. :(
torquing them to spec will not over tighten them or make them snap.

Hulking them or using an impact tool will do the trick.

I know EXACTLY how to tighten drain plugs by "feel" and I never had an issue but whenever I got my Snap-On torque wrench, I torque every single one them to OEM spec, you will not have issues.

Everyone's "just right" feel is not the same, some people don't have common sensor or don't realize their strength, instead of guessing, keep it simple use a proper tool to torque it, leave guessing out of it.

Best practice is to torque it to spec (granted you are using an original style crush washer)
 
Very true. I just achieved my " just right feel " by plain ole repetition/ experience. Hey, it took 50 years :)..... Gaskets have changed over the years though. Cork in my early days. They were a PITA......( Except head gaskets, which I had to torque anyway) Had to make adjustments to my " just right feel" to the newer type of gaskets,,,,but I did it....
 
FIFY. No way for the Stahlbus/Valvomax to leak or be accidentally opened.
I don't know about NO way but one less way without the lever. Stahlbus/Valvomax lower profile and screw on cover with extra gasket also.

Different vehicle but on my Pilot the Fumoto hung to far down. I have Valvomax on it now. Fumoto on my Accord I have no issue with placement or even lever getting hit.
 
Never torqued a drain plug in my life. Go by feel. When I was a kid rebuilding junkyard engines, ( they were always rusty inside from laying around in the rain ), I used to torque the bearing caps and rod caps after rebuild, that's it. EVERTHING else was done by feel. Nowadays, the ONLY thing I ever torque are lug nuts. You DO NOT want to over tighten those. Then, SNAP ! The wheel fly's off on a sharp turn. :(
I agree that if you have been around cars, lawn equipment, farm and industrial equipment for a few years, you should be able to tighten an oil drain plug using feel and a little judgment. I don’t think I have ever used a torque wrench in that context, have never stripped the pan, or had a plug loosen. I agree with using a torque wrench on lug nuts because the correct tightness is less visceral, and improper torque can have consequences. On engine rebuilding, you are on your own with that opinion, and everything, even valve cover bolts, should be carefully torqued. Why? Because that’s the way that it is, to paraphrase Derek.
 
Use common sense on fasteners, no need to reef,every size fasteners has limits and torque values you should follow.The information is easily found.If the quick valve ,looks compromised, don't install it.If in doubt use a torque wrench.The pros have already figured it out,use their judgment and tool technique and you won't have problems.Thats why we come here,to discuss and learn
 
Hey, basically it boils down to what you wanna do. If I was working in a shop, had ASE certificates coming out of my coolie, I'd use a torque wrench, for the simple fact that " who wants the customer back on you're mistake". Then you get reamed out from the shop manager, or worse, fired. Who needs that needs that hangin over you're head ever time you slam a " job complete" hood down. But, I'm runnin solo now,,, on my own P.O.S.'s...... Big difference...... ( There was a time I was in charge of maintaining 26 cars for 3- Pharmacy's delivery cars. Did that for 25 years off the books. Still never used a torque wrench. Got canned because they couldn't pay me off the books anymore. They needed a shop with a license for tax purposes) So, you wanna talk about repetition ?!?! That gig nearly killed me, and I was working full time at the local utility company......Ahhhhhhh.....was good to be young..... So I honed my " feel" of things even more doing that. I was a ghost employee. Gonna ream me for a leaky valve cover gasket ? Go ahead. I never re-billed them when I had one or two of them leak anyway. They ran mostly Kia Rio garbage for deliveries. I LUV the gaskets with the spacer in the screw hole so you can't overtighten. Great idea !!! :) Potato --- Potatto
 
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