Oil Drain Plug Question

[versaguy]

Hey guys, i have been using nylon dorman drain plug washers for quite some time on my old corolla without any leak issues. I just got a new nissan a few months back, and it came from the factory with a copper crush washer. Should I continue using metal crush washers, or can I switch over to the nylon rubber ones instead? Which one is better in preventing leaks? I am unsure of how much pressure needs to be applied to get the crush washer to actually "crush and seal", since I tighten my oil drain plug by feel. Any Ideas?
Thanks for the help!

 

[hate2work]

I've used nylon washers for many years, I like them. The ones I use can be re-used several times, no problem. I don't need a washer on my truck anymore because of the Fumoto valve, but the other rigs still have the nylon washers.

I've never used a crush washer on an oil pan, only on my tranny pan.

 

[1993_VG30E_GXE]

Use the copper crush washer with your Nissan - that is the OEM part. The torque is 22 ft-lbs for the oil pan drain bolt for my maxima...it's likely similar for your Nissan, that's not that much, so doing it without at torque wrench is fine, just don't over torque it with a 1/2" drive ratchet or anything, or you could strip the threads on the oil pan, then your screwed.

If you use the OEM washer (Ishino likely) it won't leak.

 

[elwaylite]

Ive never really understood the changing washers every time, or the washers at all. Oil is so thick, the plug has to be almost all the way out before any drips??

 

[Eddie]

+1 use the oem crush washer. If you don't have a torques wrench then hand tighten till contack and using a short 3/8 inch ratchet slowly feel the washer crush and then about 1/8 turn more will do it.

 

[Kestas]

elwaylite, the leak path is spiral shaped and caused by the gap in the threads.

 

[elwaylite]

So would you do a new OEM washer every time, or just every so many changes?

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: elwaylite
Ive never really understood the changing washers every time, or the washers at all. Oil is so thick, the plug has to be almost all the way out before any drips??


Me neither, I think the crush washer on my Mazda is still factory original

, as I never changed it and did not see the dealer change it the few times I took it in. But the washer is metal and quite thick, looking at it I don't think it's a cruch washer but a regular one. Also it's it nicely molded to the oil plug and does not want to come off easily, so I figured since it doesn't leak a drop I leave it on.

 

[elwaylite]

Yeah, I have not changed my oils in a few years (just bought ramps and restarted on both my cars), but I never changed the washer when I was younger and did not know.

 

[PT1]

On the Toyota crush washers for the oil pans, if you hit them lightly with a propane torch it expands them and you can re-use twice maybe 3 times. On the trans pan they are a different design and crush all the way and need to be replaced.

 

[elwaylite]

So I guess I need to stock up on washers for my Scion.

 

[Greggy_D]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ


Me neither, I think the crush washer on my Mazda is still factory original

, as I never changed it and did not see the dealer change it the few times I took it in. But the washer is metal and quite thick, looking at it I don't think it's a cruch washer but a regular one. Also it's it nicely molded to the oil plug and does not want to come off easily, so I figured since it doesn't leak a drop I leave it on.


Same here on my 3.