Oil Cunsumpsion ?

Pennzoil motor oil
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Might want to have a look here:

Mustang Forum thread on oil for a 2013 GT

Additionally, I would say that going to Pennzoil for a run, and using a higher weight oil might be worth a try. On that forum I linked, they discussed seeing an oil cap on a new 2013 GT that had 5w-50 on it.. Supposedly this may be only for certain ones, but still, it begs the question "Does heavier oil in these 5.0s work better?"

If it were my car, I'd run a bottle of higher-weight Pennzoil and see if that did the trick. I don't see it hurting the engine one bit.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
did you buy both new? different drivers or just shoddy manufacturing?
I don't buy new...

One was purchased with 14K mi from dealer(no info but a clean Car Fax) the other at 33Kmi from private owner(they purchased new)... Was the sellers Mom's and she apparently just puttered around town with it(quit driving because of age), so in that light the 33K mi may be more like 60K mi and we've added another 33K.. The wife mostly putters around town with it, but we also have around 100 miles of interstate in the area so it gets to speed fairly frequently(I don't baby it or the other one)... Seller said it had always been serviced with Mobil 1, engine still as clean inside then(and now)as new... Was using around quart in 4500mi when we got it, has gradually increased in the five years we've owned it... It did get Mobil 1 High Mileage last change just to see if that makes a difference, at approx 1500 miles appears to be down 1/2 quart..
 
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
Might want to have a look here:

Mustang Forum thread on oil for a 2013 GT

Additionally, I would say that going to Pennzoil for a run, and using a higher weight oil might be worth a try. On that forum I linked, they discussed seeing an oil cap on a new 2013 GT that had 5w-50 on it.. Supposedly this may be only for certain ones, but still, it begs the question "Does heavier oil in these 5.0s work better?"

If it were my car, I'd run a bottle of higher-weight Pennzoil and see if that did the trick. I don't see it hurting the engine one bit.


The "Track Pack" option recommends 5w50 weight oil. The only difference with the Track Pack 5.0 V8 engine option is the addition of an oil cooler and a slightly larger radiator. Many guys who track there mustangs say the 5w50 shears down to a 30 weight oil in a short time anyway.

Part of me has no issue running an oil grade higher and part of me is worried to do so. Many 5.0 Coyote motors seem to develop a motor "Tick" after an oil change but no one on the Mustang forms can seem to pin down if it's oil weight related sticking with 5w20 or 5w30, 10w40, 5w50 it does not seem to matter. This motor "Tick" is quite common on the 5.0 and Ford has replaced many motors from it. Ford has also ignored the issue and some Mustang owners are just told to live with the noise. Whatever the cause Ford is keeping it quiet and will not say what the cause is. Some F-150 owners have had the same issue. You can YouTube "Mustang 5.0 tick" if you want to hear it.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
Seems excessive to my standards but that's a big engine that may be designed to eat some oil.
Some of the Ford people here will tell you in more detail if correct or not.



Big engine?

I guess that's relative
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
If engine is running at normal temperatures, NOACK basically means NOTHING...


Why would you say that ?

NOACK is supposed to represent what happens in the ring belt, and temperatures there are representative with the test, surprise surprise.

The falacy that bulk oil temperatures mean that NOACK is meaningless is another BITOG fallacy that needs to die.
 
Cheap experiment... try a 40 grade oil for the summer, and see what happens...

It won't hurt anything, except maybe a very slight hit to mpg's...

The engine runs on a 50 grade with no problem, so try a thicker oil. If it scares you to try a 40 grade, then go a thick 30 grade, like QS DEFY etc or an HDEO like Rotella 10w30 .
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
I have a 2013 Mustang GT with the 5.0 V8 I purchased it used last summer with 7,000 miles. I am now into my second oil change every 5000 miles with Motorcraft simi synthetic 5w20 and the car seems to drink a full quart of oil every 3,000 miles and I don't know if this would be considered excessive or not? The car runs fantastic with no other issues.

Switch to full synthetic like Mobil 1 Extended Performance.


Pennzoil Ultra has a lower NOACK than Mobil 1. That's what I would put in that 5.0 engine.


That may not be true with the newer reformulation of PU.
 
Ok so I have decided to try M1 now what grade 5w30, 10W30 or 0w40 ? Or should I try Shell Rotella 10w30? What ya all think? M1 is the most available for me.
 
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
Ok so I have decided to try M1 now what grade 5w30, 10W30 or 0w40 ? Or should I try Shell Rotella 10w30? What ya all think? M1 is the most available for me.


Try the 0w-40.
 
The long short of it, I wouldn't worry about it, I'd just keep an eye on it. Like some have said, your oil rings might be a little gummed up. Or it just might be normal - most manufacturers allow a quart per 1,000 miles - so it certainly is within specs.

I find that every engine is a little different, even among same brands and models. I have a LS460 that burns nothing in 5,000 miles of driving, but I know others that burn up to a quart and a half.
 
Interesting I was talking with my father tonight and he told me the old Ford van we had I think it was around an 1989 with a 460 V8 would use a quart of oil every 3,000 miles no matter what he ran for oil. And it had 250,000 miles on it when we dumped it 20 years later. So I guess our V8 Ford oil burning runs in the family and is nothing to worry about.
 
I just checked my oil today. After 7500 miles the oil level was still half way up the crosshatch area of dipstick. Don't remember where exactly it started. I never worry about filling it absolutely to the top. 5.0s do not have to burn oil. I'd try something different.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: TFB1
If engine is running at normal temperatures, NOACK basically means NOTHING...


Why would you say that ?

NOACK is supposed to represent what happens in the ring belt, and temperatures there are representative with the test, surprise surprise.

The falacy that bulk oil temperatures mean that NOACK is meaningless is another BITOG fallacy that needs to die.


Note I said at NORMAL temperatures, though I should have qualified that with normally aspirated passenger car engine in general usage... In HD service, such as towing 10,000Lbs up a 7% grade or a turbo/supercharged application higher NOACK can be beneficial...

Point is almost EVERYONE on here thinks oil usage(burning)is due to low NOACK when in reality most cases are ring seal, or maybe valve stem seals(higher mileage vehicles) are causing the oil loss.
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1

Point is almost EVERYONE on here thinks oil usage(burning)is due to low NOACK when in reality most cases are ring seal, or maybe valve stem seals(higher mileage vehicles) are causing the oil loss.



That is a good point. If the oil level is constantly and steadily dropping throughout the whole OCI, this oil loss is not due to NOACK. If it were, then the remainder oil would be on the verge of turning to sludge.
 
You could always try the Ford spec for the 5.0,5W50. Edge is always on sale someplace,or if you want to be a purist,Motorcraft 5W50.
 
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