Oil Coating

[supton]

Ok, I'm doing my reading, honest. I think I'm going to buy some Fluid Film, I see a "kit" on Amazon that comes with a sprayer (already have a compressor), so I think I will give it a shot come spring. I've already read that it's basically "spray it on everything", except possibly some rubber compounds (not sure what would be affected under the car); and I know I would need to redo each year.

I'm guessing I would want to powerwash under my cars first, since they've seen lots of usage already. Not sure if I can do that at carwash or not, but maybe one of my friends has powerwasher. But how dry does the car need to be in order to spray? Like, sat for a few days in 80F; or just mostly dry? I'm sure there are lots of areas for water to get trapped.

Secondly, how impacted is this stuff by regular washing? I'm not in the habit of washing my car, but my wife will occasionally take hers to the wash. I'd prefer to only spray a vehicle once/year, I know twice won't kill me, but really, it needs protection the most in late fall through spring, so I'd think any reapplication should be done around those times. So I'm curious how it stands up to carwash level of powerwashing.

Thanks.

 

[Donald]

Most rusting occurs when the weather starts to warm since rusting is a chemical reaction. Or in a heated garage.

I would spray the product this spring, and again in the fall and then in the fall from then on. The product needs a little time to set, so best to not wash it for at least a week after spraying. Normal car washing should not effect the product.

I have Carwell on both my vehicles done by a shop (unfortunately there are only two shops). From what I have read, Carwell will last longer than Fluid Film, but I have no experience or proof to back that up. But in Canada they use Krown, which is Carwell. In my case, they applied a thicker product under the vehicle and a thinner one in cavaties.

So if the costs were the same, I would use Carwell.

 

[supton]

Thoughts about DIY vs a shop? My boss just got a new truck, and while having the bedliner sprayed in, I guess he got the price on spraying FF. He wasn't 100% sure but it was like $150 per treatment. If I got my truck I'd have three vehicles to treat yearly, so, looking to watch costs. I mean, it's cheaper than watching a car rust away (and having to replace it for rust issues), but... Flip side of course is getting under the vehicle to do this (ramps would only go so far).

Maybe wash the vehicle one day, let it sit for 2-3 days, then spray, let sit for a week?

 

[larryinnewyork]

I've had my vehicle sprayed at a shop for 5 years.
But they miss areas and I have to go back.

2 years ago, I started using Fluid Film.
I like it because it continues to creep around problem areas and thru the rust.

To save money, I buy 12 aerosol cans on E-Bay $84.00
That will last me about 4 years.

I also buy 1 gallon cans of Fluid Film locally $43.00
Last Fall I used about 1/2 gallon using a 3" brush.
Doing it myself, I know it's done right.

The fender wells, I will use a thicker 'all purpose grease' or Never Seize.

Fluid Film will wash off, so best time to apply is in Fall.

If you buy Fluid Film in 'aerosol' cans, buy the 18" tubing that has a "atomizer nozzel".
It's good for getting inside doors, hoods & tailgates.
It costs about $18.00 - but well worth it.

I don't have an air compressor, but the aerosol and gallon cans get me by.

 

[Donald]

The shop I go to that does Carwell spends the summer doing school busses rolling around on a creeper. Ah yes, summer days when its 95 degrees wearing overalls spraying Carwell and having it drip all over you.

 

[doitmyself]

There are Fluid Film DIY automotive application kits, if anyone is interested. I have no experience with them.

http://www.kellsportproducts.com/Spraygun.html

To me, it's the hidden seams that cause the most trouble. Door, tailgate, and trunk bottoms. Fender wells, etc.. These are places where salt solution gets between the weld seams and rust eats its way from the inside out.

 

[supton]

Just getting back to this. Am debating if I want to get the spray cans or the sprayer kit--I do have a compressor, but no lift, so I'm leaning towards cans. I might economize by not doing the whole underneath--I know on my VW the floorboards look great. The painting on sheetmetal seems to be very good these days.

 

[supton]

Bought four spray cans. At the least it'll get me started. Probably should have gotten the sprayer, I guess I'll wait and see how long the cans last.

Question: how "clean" is "good enough"? I drove it some, and it was relatively dry. Unfortunately, wife just informed me it's going to snow tomorrow--and since the summer tires just went onto the Jetta, I'm driving the thing I bought for winter weather. Furthermore, I'm not sure where the closest car wash is--I think the only local one is automatic. Not sure what good a hose would be for cleaning.

I know you want the dirt off and all; but I'm wondering about any salt that is left behind. Especially in nooks and crannies where water might not run out of (pinch welds etc). I *was* hoping to start in on this tomorrow, but it's not looking so good now.

 

[supton]

Did it today. Put on a cheapo set of painters coveralls, since the ground is wet and snowy, and i didnt want the stuff on my clothes. Used three cans, did not coat much of the sheet metal at all. Wanted to focus on the frame mostly, which was really mint, and a few places with surface rust (like the inside of the rear bumper--my hunch is that will get recalled, given how much rust it had). Would have been nice to have the front up another couple inches. Only one spot am I worried about, the bump stops in the rear were packed with dirt. Need to hose out and hit those. But I'm just glad to have something on there. Come fall I'll buy the gallon and redo, but the cans are going to be nice for touch ups and certain spots I suspect.

Not sure yet on tackling the cars, am going to need a good set of ramps for that.

 

[cat843]

Are you going into any of the cavities (doors, taligate, rear fender quarter panels)?

 

[supton]

Not yet. When I was underneath I tried to squirt into what I could get, but I was mostly worried about the frame. Need the sprayer to do the sheet metal properly, or about ten spray cans.

 

[FXjohn]

Originally Posted By: supton
Not yet. When I was underneath I tried to squirt into what I could get, but I was mostly worried about the frame. Need the sprayer to do the sheet metal properly, or about ten spray cans.


you have to drill into place like the rocker panels, spray inside and then plug the holes with rubber plugs. it's best to pay a place to do the first app and then do it yourself afterwards.

 

[supton]

I was debating that, hemmed and hawed over it. I've read both ways on drilling. I think I would, if it was domestic, as I've seen rocker panel after rocker rusted on the domestics. Few Tundras though so I'm not so sure. Also have that dreaded life-long phobia of drilling holes in pristine sheetmetal that I'd have to get over.

Got all over summer to mull it over though.

 

[cat843]

Originally Posted By: supton
I was debating that, hemmed and hawed over it. I've read both ways on drilling. I think I would, if it was domestic, as I've seen rocker panel after rocker rusted on the domestics. Few Tundras though so I'm not so sure. Also have that dreaded life-long phobia of drilling holes in pristine sheetmetal that I'd have to get over.

Got all over summer to mull it over though.


Drilling a few holes to get into the cavities is not a big deal. You will not even be aware of them in a month or two.

 

[FXjohn]

Originally Posted By: cat843
Originally Posted By: supton
I was debating that, hemmed and hawed over it. I've read both ways on drilling. I think I would, if it was domestic, as I've seen rocker panel after rocker rusted on the domestics. Few Tundras though so I'm not so sure. Also have that dreaded life-long phobia of drilling holes in pristine sheetmetal that I'd have to get over.

Got all over summer to mull it over though.


Drilling a few holes to get into the cavities is not a big deal. You will not even be aware of them in a month or two.


without drilling and spraying inside those compartments, you're wasting your time.

 

[supton]

Huh? That comment makes no sense. I'm sure there is lots of sheetmetal is that is getting lots of protection just the same. Much of the damage is going to be from rock chips. Rust on the inside of these panels is from condensation, which is going to take longer to show up.

I won't disagree that getting the inside is important, but you're acting as if I'd be better off not spraying the outside at all. Which doesn't make sense.

On edit: where would these holes go? How far apart do they have to be?

 

[cat843]

The CarWell shop drills one hole per door, one per removed tail light and one on each side of a tailgate. All near the top. They are plugged when done for the next time.

Now their "wand" is about 3' long to get all the way in.

 

[supton]

I've seen pictures of the wand, at least the one for sale on Amazon; they must drill a one-inch hole to let that in, no?

 

[cat843]

I know its not a 1" hole, I am thinking around 3/8". The wand that CarWell supplies with the air sprayer is only about 6" or 8" long. That is not what this CarWell shop uses. They could have made it. As I said its 3' to 4' long.

The also do not use air pressure. They use some kind of liquid pump rather than air. (I see the pumps and never heard an air compressor run in the 4 times I have been there).

 

[FXjohn]

Originally Posted By: supton
Huh? That comment makes no sense. I'm sure there is lots of sheetmetal is that is getting lots of protection just the same. Much of the damage is going to be from rock chips. Rust on the inside of these panels is from condensation, which is going to take longer to show up.

I won't disagree that getting the inside is important, but you're acting as if I'd be better off not spraying the outside at all. Which doesn't make sense.

On edit: where would these holes go? How far apart do they have to be?


if your rockers, wheel arches and other areas rust from the inside out, your car is still ruined.