I'm not sure why there would be "large chunks" of anything lying around, wouldn't those be caught in the filter? But if there were, I'd rather take the chance they drain out rather than recirculating them back up into the engine.
Oil change with warm or cold oil?
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I guess you've never seen a sludged up oil pan and valve train. Have you ever personally had an engine apart? If you had you'd see all sorts of stuff. I've seen oak leaves in engines. It doesn't sound like you have any personal experience with anything under the hood.
Originally Posted By: hatt
I guess you've never seen a sludged up oil pan and valve train. Have you ever personally had an engine apart? If you had you'd see all sorts of stuff. I've seen oak leaves in engines. It doesn't sound like you have any personal experience with anything under the hood.
Lmao, you are always going personal when people don't agree with you. I've had lots of engines apart and to be honest, none have ever had large chunks laying around anywhere. And oak leaves? Those aren't going to drain out not matter whether the oil is hot or cold.
The bottom line is that there is nothing you can show that proves it is better to drain the oil hot than cold. Just as there is nothing that I can show that's it's better hot. I myself try and drain it as soon as I come home from a drive. But I've also drained it cold.
I guess you've never seen a sludged up oil pan and valve train. Have you ever personally had an engine apart? If you had you'd see all sorts of stuff. I've seen oak leaves in engines. It doesn't sound like you have any personal experience with anything under the hood.
Lmao, you are always going personal when people don't agree with you. I've had lots of engines apart and to be honest, none have ever had large chunks laying around anywhere. And oak leaves? Those aren't going to drain out not matter whether the oil is hot or cold.
The bottom line is that there is nothing you can show that proves it is better to drain the oil hot than cold. Just as there is nothing that I can show that's it's better hot. I myself try and drain it as soon as I come home from a drive. But I've also drained it cold.
Some thoughts on hot oil changes....even if hot/warm is probably the best.
In a half hour of draining cool oil you're not getting all of it out vs hot..always drain hot.
This sort of conflicts with the Bitog notion of using the same oil filter for 2X or 3X OCI's. All of that old oil doesn't come out either. And I'd bet there's a lot more left in the filter and galleries than what's left in the oil pan after a cold drain at 40 deg F.
Hot draining gets all of the sludge and suspended dirt/debris out
With quality oils and filters, conservative oil drain intervals + filter changes, most vehicles shouldn't have any appreciable sludge or dirt/debris in the pan. Whatever there was should mostly be in the oil filter. If you really want to get more of the remaining sludge out of the pan, pour in some quarts of ATF/MMO or some other light cleaning oil right after you've drained the oil....and let it work on the pan for 30-60 minutes...then drain it again. Chase it down with some motor oil. If sludge in the pan was that much of a concern, we should all be doing a lot more steps to get it out, including removing/cleaning it at oil changes.
Hot oil flows and drains so much quicker
I suspect the vast majority of Bitogers are using 0w and 5w oils. Those flow quite easy above 0 deg F. And at the temps most of us probably do oil changes at (35-90 deg F ambient temps) those oils flow quite readily.
In a half hour of draining cool oil you're not getting all of it out vs hot..always drain hot.
This sort of conflicts with the Bitog notion of using the same oil filter for 2X or 3X OCI's. All of that old oil doesn't come out either. And I'd bet there's a lot more left in the filter and galleries than what's left in the oil pan after a cold drain at 40 deg F.
Hot draining gets all of the sludge and suspended dirt/debris out
With quality oils and filters, conservative oil drain intervals + filter changes, most vehicles shouldn't have any appreciable sludge or dirt/debris in the pan. Whatever there was should mostly be in the oil filter. If you really want to get more of the remaining sludge out of the pan, pour in some quarts of ATF/MMO or some other light cleaning oil right after you've drained the oil....and let it work on the pan for 30-60 minutes...then drain it again. Chase it down with some motor oil. If sludge in the pan was that much of a concern, we should all be doing a lot more steps to get it out, including removing/cleaning it at oil changes.
Hot oil flows and drains so much quicker
I suspect the vast majority of Bitogers are using 0w and 5w oils. Those flow quite easy above 0 deg F. And at the temps most of us probably do oil changes at (35-90 deg F ambient temps) those oils flow quite readily.
In the old days the oil pick up had a filter. Never seen any bother with it.arent they supppsed to clean it?
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Good grief don't change it cold!
You're bringing it out of storage anyway and since it's a classic you'll have various misfires, sticky chokes, etc. Waste the old oil on it. I'd give it a good initial crank without pumping the gas/ setting the choke and hope that it doesn't actually catch right off.
Also your oil pump could have nearly lost its prime; doing a stone cold change on it could siphon out the old/ get an air bubble in there/ whatever. DON'T FLAME ME; IT HAPPENED TO ME on my saturn with a timing cover geroter pump somehow.
The oil that you left in there is "good enough" to get it running this spring, otherwise you wouldn't have left it in there. Even a somewhat depleted TBN is not battery acid that's going to eat your (blank) when you get it going, despite pearl clutching to the contrary.
+1
Good grief don't change it cold!
You're bringing it out of storage anyway and since it's a classic you'll have various misfires, sticky chokes, etc. Waste the old oil on it. I'd give it a good initial crank without pumping the gas/ setting the choke and hope that it doesn't actually catch right off.
Also your oil pump could have nearly lost its prime; doing a stone cold change on it could siphon out the old/ get an air bubble in there/ whatever. DON'T FLAME ME; IT HAPPENED TO ME on my saturn with a timing cover geroter pump somehow.
The oil that you left in there is "good enough" to get it running this spring, otherwise you wouldn't have left it in there. Even a somewhat depleted TBN is not battery acid that's going to eat your (blank) when you get it going, despite pearl clutching to the contrary.
+1
Oil @ full operating temp.
Fumoto Valves are your friend
I also pour a quart of flush oil (SuperTech or something) to flush out any and all debris left in the pan.
Fumoto Valves are your friend
I also pour a quart of flush oil (SuperTech or something) to flush out any and all debris left in the pan.
Originally Posted By: TheOnlySarge
Oil @ full operating temp.
Fumoto Valves are your friend
I also pour a quart of flush oil (SuperTech or something) to flush out any and all debris left in the pan.
I can't conclude if I should laugh or cry at this. Sounds like we need a poll. How many BITOG use a quart to flush their engine out? Personally, I use Pennzoil Ultra. I used to use SuperTech conventional but if you're going to pour a quart to flush stuff you should really use the one meant to keep an engine spotless.
Oil @ full operating temp.
Fumoto Valves are your friend
I also pour a quart of flush oil (SuperTech or something) to flush out any and all debris left in the pan.
I can't conclude if I should laugh or cry at this. Sounds like we need a poll. How many BITOG use a quart to flush their engine out? Personally, I use Pennzoil Ultra. I used to use SuperTech conventional but if you're going to pour a quart to flush stuff you should really use the one meant to keep an engine spotless.
I can't believe there's this much discussion on how to change oil. I don't worry about whether it's hot or cold. I pull the plug, remove the filter, and then let it drain until it's a very light drip. That's time to top up other fluids and drink a beer.
Plug goes back along with a filter with a greased seal. I rarely put much oil in the filter because it mounts horizontally and will mostly pour out when installing. I fill the car to the publicized spec of oil capacity which with both of my cars is near bang on the max mark to a hair over. I swear if I let my wife look at this site and see what I'm reading sometimes she'd have me committed.
Plug goes back along with a filter with a greased seal. I rarely put much oil in the filter because it mounts horizontally and will mostly pour out when installing. I fill the car to the publicized spec of oil capacity which with both of my cars is near bang on the max mark to a hair over. I swear if I let my wife look at this site and see what I'm reading sometimes she'd have me committed.
Torrid with that attitude how do you expect your engine to last 15 years and 200k miles? You need to buy single quarts and pour through your engine to clean it out. Pennzoil Ultra would be e best choice. Not on sale. The sale stuff has sediment on the bottom. That's why it's on sale.
Gentlemen! Only on BITOG would there be a 6 page discussion on when to drain your oil. With that said, I will add my .02! To the OP, do what is the most convenient for you. In the grand scheme of things it won't make any real difference.
Originally Posted By: HM12460
Gentlemen! Only on BITOG would there be a 6 page discussion on when to drain your oil. With that said, I will add my .02! To the OP, do what is the most convenient for you. In the grand scheme of things it won't make any real difference.
+1
Gentlemen! Only on BITOG would there be a 6 page discussion on when to drain your oil. With that said, I will add my .02! To the OP, do what is the most convenient for you. In the grand scheme of things it won't make any real difference.
+1
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
In the future I would recommend doing the oil change just before you store it, then it is ready to go in the spring with fresh oil and filter and no need to think about it. Better to store it with the clean oil.
+1
In the future I would recommend doing the oil change just before you store it, then it is ready to go in the spring with fresh oil and filter and no need to think about it. Better to store it with the clean oil.
+1
I go around the block once, but I use a mityvac so it is noticeably easier and faster when warm.
This isn't operating temperature it gets to be about body or hottub temp. Not hot enough that if you touch something you will burn yourself.
If I'm doing the oc after the car is hot, I let the car cool down a bit before starting (too hot will burn me, and potentially warp the plastic diptube).
So completely for selfish reasons (time to do it and burns) rather than for the car.
For those complaining about wasting a quarter of oil, what about driving 30min. That's 4quarts of gasoline that's gone from this earth for the tree huggers and about the same as a quarter of motor oil from a pure financial standpoint. Should jump on his back if you're jumping on the flashers back.
This isn't operating temperature it gets to be about body or hottub temp. Not hot enough that if you touch something you will burn yourself.
If I'm doing the oc after the car is hot, I let the car cool down a bit before starting (too hot will burn me, and potentially warp the plastic diptube).
So completely for selfish reasons (time to do it and burns) rather than for the car.
For those complaining about wasting a quarter of oil, what about driving 30min. That's 4quarts of gasoline that's gone from this earth for the tree huggers and about the same as a quarter of motor oil from a pure financial standpoint. Should jump on his back if you're jumping on the flashers back.
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Water is heavier than oil so the oil floats on top of the water.The best oil changes occur when the oil is hot and drains the fastest carrying the debris with it. Look inside of an oil pan when removed from the engine. It doesn't really matter what temperature the oil is when it is changed. What matters is that the oil is changed on a regular basis. No need to let it over night or other silly notions.
Originally Posted By: CT8
Water is heavier than oil so the oil floats on top of the water.The best oil changes occur when the oil is hot and drains the fastest carrying the debris with it. Look inside of an oil pan when removed from the engine. It doesn't really matter what temperature the oil is when it is changed. What matters is that the oil is changed on a regular basis. No need to let it over night or other silly notions.
+1 Exactly.
Water is heavier than oil so the oil floats on top of the water.The best oil changes occur when the oil is hot and drains the fastest carrying the debris with it. Look inside of an oil pan when removed from the engine. It doesn't really matter what temperature the oil is when it is changed. What matters is that the oil is changed on a regular basis. No need to let it over night or other silly notions.
+1 Exactly.
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