Oil change mistake! Change or not?

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Originally Posted By: 1999nick
A look at an owner's manual from a vehicle I owned back in the 80's, a Pontiac Bonneville, show's recommendations for almost every weight of oil then manufactured, from straight 10 weight to 20W50, and everything in between. Temperature limitations applied. 20W50 was good from 20 degrees on up. 10W30 and 10W40 was good from 0 degrees on up. Straight 10 weight was good up to 60 degrees. Straight 30 weight was good above 40 degrees. The preferred viscosity was 10W30.


I really wish they still did this.
 
Originally Posted By: Bamaro
Leave it in since he is probably getting bad mileage anyhow and wont notice a little bit more.


Its not even so much about the millage. When I ran GC in my old RX 300,I work in a hilly terrain area and after work it had problems pulling the hills around here until it warmed up real good. This was also in the middle of summer.
 
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Drain it into a clean container, and keep for mowers. Too new vehicle, and too think oil. If cost is an issue, run down to Walmart and buy MC for $11-13 (whatever the cost is now?). I know I would change it if it were mine. The filter should be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: kkreit01
Too new vehicle, and too think oil.


It would be interesting to see what oil gets spec'd for this engine in the Middle East and Australia.
 
leave it in and calculate gas mileage every fill up until July, then switch to 5w20 and calculate gas mileage every fill up and show us the results.
 
UPDATE: He just called me and said he drove around all am and it runs great so the heck with it the 20w-50 stays in the Yota! I told him I want a sample of that oil when he is ready to change it so we can see whats in it?
 
Definitely keep us posted
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
A look at an owner's manual from a vehicle I owned back in the 80's, a Pontiac Bonneville, show's recommendations for almost every weight of oil then manufactured, from straight 10 weight to 20W50, and everything in between. Temperature limitations applied. 20W50 was good from 20 degrees on up. 10W30 and 10W40 was good from 0 degrees on up. Straight 10 weight was good up to 60 degrees. Straight 30 weight was good above 40 degrees. The preferred viscosity was 10W30.


I really wish they still did this.
They do! My '09 subaru came with 5w-20 in the sump, oilfill cap says 5w30, the OM says 5w30 or 10w30, and in high temp or towing SAE 30, 40, 20W-50. on most ALL ENGINES the light weight oil RECOMMENDATION (NOT requirement) is due to maintaining Gvt Fuel economy ratings, CAFE - ONLY, ONLY, ONLY - ONLY! There are exceptions where the hydraulic actuators in the vehicle are designed for a specific viscosity, Like some dodge V8s, cars with VVT etc. But why go there into the thick? Except for operation under the MOST extreme conditions, I can't see a water cooled gasoline engine in a passenger car requiring more than a 40 weight. Only if your sump gets real hot OR you are operating near redline constantly will the higher SAE grade be beneficial. Because, under higher temps and HTHS the 20w-50 will drop its viscosity back into that 30W or 20W range. See? Aha!
 
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Lets put it this way. It will not make the engine blow up or wear out any faster than normal. In other words leave it alone.
 
Drain the 20-50 in a clean drain pan.
Common coffee filters are slow, but work well in a funnel to pour that oil in a container.
It can be mixed here and there in cars or whatever.
And cf course, use the 5-30.
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
No problem. Tolerances are not a problem. Too thin is a problem. Hav him check his fuel mileage, I bet there is little or no change. Higher viscosity oil can affect the leakdown rate of hydraulic lifters and VVT operation - but would just trade some low rpm torque with much increase high rpm torque.
clearances are not a big problem??????
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
If you said 10w30 I'd say leave it in there but 20w50 is too thick for modern, close tolerence engines (especially low mileage ones) IMO. You could drain 3 qts. and add 5w20 or dump it all.
I would hope the engines were built with minimal tolerances but I would say you mean clearances there is a big difference.
 
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Originally Posted By: bradepb
For crying out loud were talking about 25 bucks worth of oil, drain the sump ,replace with the 5w30 and dont worry about what was left in the filter, why run 2 grades thicker than recommended in such a new truck.
probably would not hurt a thing but why run it when you can drain and fill in 10 minutes


I agree. Pretty stupid and cheap to not drain the 50 weight oil and pour in the correct weight oil. It is a no brainer to change out the oil... Why take the chance on ruining your engine? Blowing out a gasket? Etc...
Why would the oil cause a gasket to blow out?
 
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I have some 5w30 RP I drained out after a week. Its still on my front porch in a 5qt jug after 2 years ...


Why?


Sounds like a great place for it. Must be a classy neighborhood.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Drain the 20-50 in a clean drain pan.
Common coffee filters are slow, but work well in a funnel to pour that oil in a container.
It can be mixed here and there in cars or whatever.
And cf course, use the 5-30.


I've tried filtering 10w30 and it won't flow through a coffee filter, but 5w30 would flow through fine. I'd not waste the time to filter out 20w50.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
No problem. Tolerances are not a problem. Too thin is a problem. Hav him check his fuel mileage, I bet there is little or no change. Higher viscosity oil can affect the leakdown rate of hydraulic lifters and VVT operation - but would just trade some low rpm torque with much increase high rpm torque.
clearances are not a big problem??????
Nope - typical plain bearing and piston/wall are a lot larger than your hot SAE 50 oil "molecule". To thin an oil with too LARGE a clearance is the issue. Recall we are discussing above freezing pumpability and lubrication. Well below freezing would be another issue. 20W-XX IS a winter rated oil.
 
Originally Posted By: JakeR22
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I have some 5w30 RP I drained out after a week. Its still on my front porch in a 5qt jug after 2 years ...


Why?


Sounds like a great place for it. Must be a classy neighborhood.
My wife doesnt think so. Its a Log cabin on a hill in the forest. You cant even see the roads or the house on a satellite image due to the dense 100ft white pines and birch.
 
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Originally Posted By: zloveraz
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Biggest oil change mistake is changing oil way too soon.


Really how so?


Extremely wasteful.
 
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