Oil change intervals

[doublebase]

So do you think this truck still has a chance of lasting me a long time as long as I keep up on the maintenance?

The good news is the truck only has 44,000 miles on it, not 144,000 miles with that type of maintenance schedule. HUGE difference.

If it bothers you that much, start from scratch...change the oil and filter, let it run for a 5,000 mile interval (checking the oil level every 1,000 miles, and take a reading of the level). If everything seems ok - no consumption - no smoke blowing out your tailpipe? you’re probably fine. And honestly, I think it’s fine anyway. I wouldn’t worry about it...those miles are just too low for catastrophic damage...it was only one interval that went past the mileage point.

 

[David17382619]

He sure does... funny enough, he's only concerned about the engine.

I’m not sure I see what your getting at, if your trying to imply that I’m paranoid, personally I work hard for my money and value my possessions, so I’m just trying to care for my truck (which cost me an arm and a leg in todays used car market). And as far as me “only being concerned about the engine” again I don’t see why that is weird either. The engine has extended oil change intervals. I’m not really as concerned as you think. Also I’m a 20 year old and I’m a welder/fabricator, that’s what I do for work, I’m NOT a mechanic. I’ve only ever seen enough life out of a vehicle to do two oil changes. Sorry that I don’t know much about oil change intervals

 

[nomas]

Sleep well . Your truck is fine . Follow a decent OCI schedule and keep a clean air filter in it .

 

[Samurai1225]

You are getting wound up over nothing. Drive the truck.

I agree with this. It's a Toyota with 44k miles which is barely broken in. I seriously doubt a few extended OCI did irreparable damage to the engine.

 

[ATex7239]

The question you gotta ask yourself is had you not found out would you notice any difference?

In my opinion, you would not. I wouldn’t worry about it.

 

[dkryan]

Have you given any thought to the transmission fluid? What about the transfer case and the differentials?

David,

Not to increase your worry factor by an exponential number, but I would pay attention to what he’s asking.

If you watched the mechanic drain the rear diff and transfer case, you’d probably congratulate yourself on deciding to change it. It’s NOT lifetime gear lube.

Then again, if you saw the color of the old fluid and got a look at the drain plug(s), you’d probably never sleep at night.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

I’m not sure I see what your getting at, if your trying to imply that I’m paranoid, personally I work hard for my money and value my possessions, so I’m just trying to care for my truck (which cost me an arm and a leg in todays used car market). And as far as me “only being concerned about the engine” again I don’t see why that is weird either. The engine has extended oil change intervals. I’m not really as concerned as you think. Also I’m a 20 year old and I’m a welder/fabricator, that’s what I do for work, I’m NOT a mechanic. I’ve only ever seen enough life out of a vehicle to do two oil changes. Sorry that I don’t know much about oil change intervals

You want to have peace of mind, right?

Change the fluids in the transfer case, differentials, transmission, and engine. It will be worth saving a sample of the transmission fluid and sending it off for oil analysis to determine the condition of it. You'll be able to tell if it was abused in any way.

It will cost you a few hundred dollars, but it will ensure that you'll be able to keep your vehicle in good working order for a very - very long time.

If you want to go this route, let me know, and I'll give you a list of the fluids you can use without having to spend an arm and a leg.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I bought a 2020 Toyota tundra 5.7 v8 with 44000 miles on it. takes 0w-20 full synthetic. I looked through the carfax before buying and oil changes looked good. Upon second glance after buying the truck I noticed that I overlooked an extended interval. Previous owner went 10000 per Toyotas recommendations, however he went 14500 at one point.

Keep in mind that a Carfax may not show every maintenance done to a vehicle. I've looked at 100s of Carfax reports when recently shopping for a used car, and maintenance records were all over the place and I knew I couldn't rely on their accuracy. Only way to really know would be some other more official record keeping on the truck. If the Carfax shows what dealership serviced the truck, then give their service department a call with your VIN and ask if they have records on the truck. If you can't do that, then just start taking car if the truck like you want to and enjoy it. Nothing bad happened if the OCI went a bit longer than Toyota's 10K recommendation.

 

[buster]

It's a Toyota 5.7L so you have that going for you. Highly unlikely anything is wrong. However, if it was mine, I'd run HPL in it to clean up anything that could have potentially formed.

 

[dadto2]

I've bought only used cars my entire life, never once looked at a Carfax report. So I have no idea what the maintenance history was on any of them. (Well, one I bought from my OCD buddy, that thing got M1 every 6k like a Swiss railroad schedule) And every car I've ever owned died of body/frame rust after a few hundred thousand miles, except the one I totaled.
You are worrying about a single oil change that you can't verify with absolute certainty. Quit over-thinking it and enjoy your new wheels.

 

[Nesterenko]

and keep a clean air filter in it .

Not too clean mind you. Leave the air cleaner box alone, the air filter doesn't need changing very often. Without overdoing the maintenance that vehicle will last you at least 15 years. Drive it, you can't enjoy it by being a worry wart.

 

[Bellavita]

The good news is the truck only has 44,000 miles on it, not 144,000 miles with that type of maintenance schedule. HUGE difference.

If it bothers you that much, start from scratch...change the oil and filter, let it run for a 5,000 mile interval (checking the oil level every 1,000 miles, and take a reading of the level). If everything seems ok - no consumption - no smoke blowing out your tailpipe? you’re probably fine. And honestly, I think it’s fine anyway. I wouldn’t worry about it...those miles are just too low for catastrophic damage...it was only one interval that went past the mileage point.

I agree. You'll get the benefits of knowing the oil is correct as you start ownership and you'll have a reset for your maintenance intervals.

Doing the same for the axles, transmission and air filter will give you total piece of mind. You'll also know exactly the quality of fluids going in.

 

[ChrisD46]

Mobil 1 0W20 + Fram Tough Guard Oil Filter run for 5K Miles or 6 months (which comes first) .

 

[Astro14]

Keep your truck.

One step I’ve always taken with a used (new to me) car is to change every fluid. Engine oil. Trans fluid. Differential oil. Transfer case oil. Coolant on your truck is 100,000 mile/ten year. No worries on that.

So, change them all and establish a new baseline.

The Mobil 1 EP 0W20 is a good choice. I’ve been running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in mine since it was out of Toyota Care. Do a couple of shorter intervals, like 5,000 miles. Then choose a good oil and go back to 10,000. If you short trip, or any other hard use, stick with 5,000.

If you are interested, HPL, which costs more, cleans well, and can be run for longer. If you go that route (and I will with my Tundra when I use up the stash of PUP I got cheap) then change the filter once at 5,000 and stick with a 10,000 mile interval for the oil. 10,000 for both after that. No sense throwing out perfectly good, expensive oil.

Get a tool for the filter housing.

Transmission takes WS. You’ll need 14-16 quarts to do a complete fluid change via the cooler return line. Tundra forums have details on this. Not hard, but you’ll need Techstream (or an IR gun) to get the level correct when you’re done.

Differential takes 75W90. Lots of good choices. I have AMSOIL in mine now, which will get changed over to HPL when I get to 60,000 on the AMSOIL.

Transfer case is an odd duck. It takes a 75W. It’s synthetic manual transmission oil. You need 1.6 quarts. Toyota will sell it to you for $80+ a quart. That’s not a typo.

Two other options: Ravenol for just over $20/quart. HPL for a bit under $20. Again, I am an HPL fan. See below.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Transmission takes WS. You’ll need 14-16 quarts to do a complete fluid change via the cooler return line. Tundra forums have details on this. Not hard, but you’ll need Techstream (or an IR gun) to get the level correct when you’re done.

Think there is a way to trigger an indicator on the dash by jumping the OBDII connector to show when the transmission fluid is withing temperature range ... I know there is on the Tacomas, so would think the same can be done on the Tundra. It's more accurate than an IR gun, and no special scanner is needed. Just search YouTube and you'll find how to do this.

 

[Astro14]

Think there is a way to trigger an indicator on the dash by jumping the OBDII connector to show when the transmission fluid is withing temperature range ... I know there is on the Tacomas, so would think the same can be done on the Tundra. It's more accurate than an IR gun, and no special scanner is needed. Just search YouTube and you'll find how to do this.

I know that for earlier Tundras, the “temperature check mode” involves a set of shifts, which results in a flashing D when the transmission is in neutral, as outlined in the Toyota TSB.

Techstream is free, and the dongle was about $25, and it is worth having, but the “temperature check mode” should work on the OP 2020, I believe.

 

[Srfridd]

Your 5.7 holds 8.5 quarts, I wouldn't get too hung up on the 14k interval.

 

[Zee09]

I have owned many leases and except for the first free oil changes I did all the basic maintenance after that. Many lease owners do the same.