Oil and filter rec for 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

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I just purchased a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix with a supercharged 3800 engine. The Carfax is clean and shows that the PO had regular oil changes performed at a dealer in IA for the most part, with the last few performed at an EZ Lube in SoCal, at about 3,000 mile intervals. There are some 12,000 mile gaps between some of the Carfax service entries, but I'm guessing the owner took it to quick lube places and/or the services were not reported to Carfax by the facilities. The last oil change was performed in November 2011 with 129,000 miles on the odo. It currently has a bit over 131,000 miles on it and the OLM shows just under 50% oil life remaining, but I plan on changing it as it has been more than one year since the last change.

The car will be driven about 70/30 highway/city and will probably get four to six 30+ mile runs each week (I'm still figuring out the local travel extent following a promotion) for a total of 1,000-1,500 miles per month. I generally drive pretty sedately, but with the supercharger, I may mash the pedal from time to time. The area where I live is sometimes dusty; not Midwest dust bowl but there is always a layer of dust on my cars' exteriors, even only hours after washing.

The manual calls for a 5W-30 that is API certified (SM at the time, I believe) and meets GM6094M (since superseded by dexos1, IIRC). My initial thought was that heat generated by the added fuel and air resulting from the boost from the SC would require a syn, but there is nothing about that in the manual. I did some searching on these boards and saw good UOA results from PP by another user with a NA 3800, but wasn't planning on going full syn. If you all think full syn with an extended OCI is a good idea, then I may try it out. Maybe go through 1 1/2 or 2 OLM change reminders between drains?

I have a mini-stash of 5W-30 Valvoline MaxLife NextGen, which I figure I'll run for the first OCI to help clean up any buildup that may be in the crankcase. Don't need the added seal conditioners at this time as the only oil leak is a slight one from the oil pan gasket and that is an RTV gasket so the conditioners won't do any good anyway. I like the idea of NextGen, so wouldn't mind sticking with the conventional, semi-syn HM, or new full syn. Also planning on running a Bosch Premium filter as they are abundant and relatively cheap.

After this next fill, any recommendations on oils and filters?
 
If you chose synthetic, just run it to 5% on the OLM OR 12 months with a long distance filter (like Bosch DistancePlus.)

If you chose conventional, run it to 35% on the OLM OR 7-8 months and keep with your planned Bosch Premium

Use up your mini-stash of Valvoline.

The supercharger my abuse the oil a little more than an N/A car, but not as much as a turbo car.

Stick with 5w-30
 
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You'll be rarely on boost to any significant degree, and when you aren't it's a lower compression engine that the non-supercharged.

In Oz, the OCI for those engines is 10,000km (6200 miles), on Dino 20W-50 and 15W-40 (for cold temps, LOL).

Mines never seen 20W-50, has had 5W-30 and 10W-30 semi synths etc. Seems to like it best on Isosyn GrII+ 15W-40...
 
In all my 3800s I have just run M1 10W-30 and the AC Delco filter. Infact the earlier ones recommend 10W-30. Not sure why they wen to to 5W-30. 3800s are easy on oil.
 
Valvoline is very good but if the engines valve train sounds noisy to you you can experiment with another brand. 5w-30 is a very good grade. This model is not direct injected so you don't need synthetic oil but Pennzoil synthetics are quiet.

If there is a Motorcraft oil filter that's interchangable with your model that is the only thing in your oil change plan I would consider changing.
 
There are several 3800 UOA's on here and across the net. Some engines show the same wear metal numbers no matter what oil is used. Not the 3800. Wear metals change depending on oil. Examples..

PP then switches to GC
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=928199
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1988089

An example over time running M1 then switching to PP and doubling the OCI length
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1868816

M1 EP on a 2010 Lacrosse with a 3.6L v6.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2704433

M1 EP to Edge
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1735966&page=1

Valvoline and Napa
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2301810

GTP L67 3800 using M1 EP
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=257293

As you can see the 3800 can shed higher levels of lead and copper with some oils which are 2 elements of the bearing surface. Based on these and a few more more I went with PP for the 08 series III in my sig. Engine is so quiet I can hardly hear it running. Much quieter than whatever oil it was running at purchase in August. Very smooth also. I'm using a Fram Ultra filter. Oil and filter both purchased at Walmart. The Bosch Premium is a nice filter will look into that.
 
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
+1 PP easy choice. Just a question of how long. Filter standard is PF 47 longer is PF 52. Even the PF 52 is a small filter.


I wouldn't say the 52s are small. They are a little smaller then 2x the size of 47s. You might be thinking of the ecore 52s which are a little smaller. I recommend finding the classics. Anything with an e at the end (PF-52E) is an ecore. The classics are quality filters. I use them with confidence in my Equinox.

Stick with a quality synthetic (M1/PP etc.) and filter. PF-52 would be a great choice
 
I had several UOAs done on my '00 Bonneville which had the Series II L67, and all were more or less flawless despite using the cheapest dino oil I could find. Each was around an 8k interval, which put the OLM around 10-15% when the oil was changed.

I had some bolt on mods, smaller pulley, and dyno tuned (242 whp / 350 lb-ft) and still the engine was incredibly easy on oil.

I really don't think you'll have a problem using any modern SN rated 10w-30 or 5w-30, changed at the end of the OLM.
 
I bought a 5+ quart jug of PP 5W-30 at WM yesterday and picked up a Bosch Premium w/ Filtech (3331) at AZ and plan on changing on Sunday. I don't know how clean or dirty the engine is, but the current fill (presumably of dino) has only about 2k miles on it, but has been in the engine for about 15 months and I expect the PP to do some cleaning. Should I give the oil and/or filter only a certain amount of mileage/OLM % before changing or just go the full OLM on this fill?

Thinking of going with PP and a Bosch D+ on the next fill and going 1.5x or 2x OLM.
 
Check the oil at every fill up if the oil getting very dark/black after 3-4k miles then change it, if the color is not very black then go the full OLM.
 
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