I have a 1923 Buick with a 6 cylinder with overhead valves. The engine is original. It runs, but I want to change the oil before I drive it anymore. I don't have a manual, so I need some suggestions for a good oil to use.
Originally Posted By: Provi
Originally Posted By: Chris142
sae30 non detergent is my guess
I would use a good detergent oil as the most recent API standard is backwards compatable.
should not use a detergent oil when there's no oil filter though
Originally Posted By: dparm
Very low detergency (TBN 1.4), won't attack seals.
Pardon for the interruption, but is TBN a basic measure of an oil's detergency? If it is that simple, one could measure an oil's general ability to clean by its starting TBN, but I can't believe that it's that simple. I'm not challenging the notion; I've simply never seen detergency correlated with TBN before, so I though I'd ask.
in 1923 i would assume it would not have a filter, since the oil filter was first invented that year... but id say any 40wt or 10w40 would work. ive always ran detergent type oils in ohv go cart engines, and pressure washers..ect. with no issues. i dont think it would hurt it much. i just would change oil very often in that classic beast.
Any good quality SAE 30 or 40 oil will be good for your engine. I don't recommend using a non detergent oil in any engine, new or antique. The oils produced today are far superior the the oils produced when your car was new. The theory that a detergent oil will loosen a bunch of sludge and plug the oil screen is not true. Cleaners like Kreen, MMO etc. will loosen sludge, so I don't recommend using them in a very old engine without removing the pan for cleaning. Modern oils will keep more sludge from forming though.
Oil change intervals for that car were like 600 miles.
Who needed a filter?
A 15-40 in your climate should be a very good choice . Maybe not so great in cold winter mornings, but I doubt you are taking that car to work.
If it isn't sludged then any modern 15w40 or 20W-50 should be fine...
The statement about oil won't bust accumulated sludge loose isn't true, I've seen even now ancient SC/SD Havoline loosen huge chunks of sludge that was left from the Quaker State of 40 years ago... Who wants to bet this old Buick hasn't seen it's share of QS back in the day???
No oil filter. I haven't dropped the pan to take a peek. I'm leaning towards 15-40.
It gets in the low teens, but with no roll up windows, I won't be out in it. 40 degrees would be the low end for me to even attempt to drive in.
I'm curious to see how many quarts she holds.
I have 2 old vehicles: 1951 Plymouth & 1949 Dodge 3/4 ton pickup. Both are original engines, both 217.8 CID 6 cylinders. I use Mobil 1 10W-40 in each and both are very smooth running. Like all old vehicles, they 'seep' a little oil...those old style seals & gaskets just didn't compare with the ones found on modern engines. Another thing I like about the use of multi-viscosity synthetic oil is that both vehicles will start in 5 degree weather, even with 6-volt ignition systems/batteries, and yet maintain excellent oil pressure after running on the highways during hot weather.
I forgot to mention, you want the proper additive package in the oil you select for an old OHV engine like the one in your Buick. I'm NOT attempting to 'push' my Mobil 1 choice on you. The Mobil 1 10w40 or 15W-50 have plenty of phos., but so does any diesel engine oil in 15w40 conventional or 5W-40 (synthetic)...and the diesel oil would be great in that fine old car. Either viscosity would be fine, as well.
Just use Shell Rotella T conventional oil. I know a few collectors of tractors and Rotella 15W40 is what they use in original engines... I would not use any Full Synthetic oils unless that engine has been rebuilt recently.
Does this OHV engine have exposed rocker arms, or does it have a valve cover? I always think about what might happen to exposed rockers due to exposure, and what lubricant they would need.