Oil Absorbing Into Metal Crankcase Parts

[JCCADILLACMOBILE]

My post is about Oil "Consumption" By the oil "Soaking" into the Metal parts.. I heard this happens with Synthetics.. im wondering if it happens with Synthetic Blends?

Im keeping an eye on my jaguar Oil level. it is perfect at this time, full Crosshairs.. Seems a Nice Dark Amber Brown, not Black as i thought.. and aside from the "10W-40 vs 20W-50" debate for that car (Oil pressure was 50Psi when i started it, then evened out to 40Psi at Hot Idle and "60" Psi when going down the road with 10W-40, tempted to use 20W-50 there next time like Jaguar and Owners of them say, for the 4.2L Inline-6, as 65PSI is "Relief Pressure"...) I took Pictures of the gauges if anyone wishes to see.

.. But since i think SeaFoaming it 50-100 miles before changing the Oil and Filter does not seem like a Horrible idea, im wondering if my new Engine Oil will soak in to any Parts, as some vehicles have COnsumption in this manner (Not "Burned Off.")

.. And i May only SeaFoam it One more time as well, for 50 or 60 miles or so, as IF i have Sludge, it does not seem to be causing a problem.. i dont know yet.

Post 2.. Thanks - Joseph

 

[BobFout]

I can't say I've ever heard of oil soaking into metal parts.

If you didn't want to seafoam, you could use a good Euro oil at short intervals (5K miles) for a while.

20w50 in Indiana...summer only.

 

[ThirdeYe]

Originally Posted By: BobFout
I can't say I've ever heard of oil soaking into metal parts.

If you didn't want to seafoam, you could use a good Euro oil at short intervals (5K miles) for a while.

20w50 in Indiana...summer only.


Zmax!

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I think you are obsessing about properly maintaining your Brit Antique. This can lead to mistakes. Forget the seafoam - please! Just install a quality oil for the climate and be done. After time, If the oil is not to your liking, change it. The former owner helped the car last this long, most likely without being stressed and obsessed. Finally, it might be beneficial to find and spend a goodly amount of time on a Jak-You-R forum where the mark-appropriate cognoscenti would be prevalent.

 

[scurvy]

Originally Posted By: JCCADILLACMOBILE
My post is about Oil "Consumption" By the oil "Soaking" into the Metal parts.. I heard this happens with Synthetics.. im wondering if it happens with Synthetic Blends?
It no sooner happens with synthetics than blends than dino than crude does.

This oil 'soaking' into metal is a silly, silly idea that has little basis in materials science. If it soaked into metal, it could soak through metal - in which case refineries, tankers, pipelines and every engine would be leaking oil everywhere.

Quit reading zMax sales flackery and quit tooefing about your car so much. Don't bother with seafoam - use a good high mileage oil & drive the snot out of it.

 

[J. A. Rizzo]

Maybe if there are tiny pores in cast parts, something might soak in, but those pores are full by now and certainly no oil consumption could be attributed to this. Sounds to me like somebody at Jaguar was trying to make excuses for oil leaks.

 

[expat]

Remember when oil can in Tin cans?

Have you a considered 15w40 HDEO?

 

[Kestas]

Oil does not soak into metal parts. Naturally, some people may point out powder metal parts and the microporosity in castings, but per se, oil will not soak into metal.

 

[sbergman27]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I think you are obsessing about properly maintaining your Brit Antique. This can lead to mistakes. Forget the seafoam - please! Just install a quality oil for the climate and be done.

Yes. That's very good advice from ARCO... who never obsesses about oil-related matters.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I didnt start obsessing UNTIL I had problems, Then I got paranoid. Hey, this IS an oil board - you have to be a bit OFF to spend much time here ... or secretly performing studies of social behavior for your Psychology Thesis ... !!!?!!!

 

[ARCOgraphite]

AGAIN seafoam is (verified thru MSDS research) ACETONE and Isopropyl Alcohol in light oil. You DO NOT want that !@#$% in your crankcase.

 

[sbergman27]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
AGAIN seafoam is (verified thru MSDS research) ACETONE and Isopropyl Alcohol in light oil. You DO NOT want that !@#$% in your crankcase.

But if you've aleady bought it, wrap it up with a bow, write "Nail Polish Remover" on the front, and give it to your GF on the next special occasion. No use wasting money and perfectly good acetone over an honest mistake.

 

[sbergman27]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
or secretly performing studies of social behavior for your Psychology Thesis ... !!!?!!!

Yeah, that's it. I'm studying populations obsessed by the performance characteristics of the slimy remains of plants which lived millions of years ago, but which are clearly not alive today.

I'd be particularly interested in hearing from anyone with a sexual attraction to oil. Please register a preference for conventional or synthetic. ;-)

 

[brsmith]

I bet anyone could make Seafoam alot cheaper than they sell it for. At $7 a can at the local Farm store, I think I could probably by gallons of each and mix it myself. Heck, the Seafoam MSDS all but gives one the ratios.

50% pale oil (cutting oil)
25% IPA (isopropyl alcohol)
25% Naptha

I understand why the folks with the faulty PCV system in the 5.7 Dodges use it, because it will help to remove the water ending up in the engine.

If I were cleaning a known dirty engine, I would rather use a quart of Gunk and flush it, then do a few short OCIs with the cheapest oil I could buy flushing each time with the Gunk. If I know the motor has had good OCIs, I would rather throw a quart of MMO in it to try and clean a noisy lifter.

I have only used Seafoam in fuel and I prefer a 50/50 Chemtool B-12 mixed with MMO for fuel issues.

To each his own, there is more than one answer to many things.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Getcha some good 20W50.........Pennzoil conventional,Valvoline conventional or VR1,GTX,Quaker State,Havoline. Don`t use any additives,flushes,etc. Just fill it up with one of the above and you`ll be good to go :^)

 

[nitehawk55]

Sell the Jag , it's a money pit in waiting !!!!

Seriously ,you'll have a lot more to worry about when you need to buy parts and do repairs on that car . A clean engine and what oil to use will be the least of your worries .

Sorry to sound blunt but I've known some who have owned Jags and the cost for upkeep/repairs/parts was unbelievable !!!....YIKES !!!!!

 

[vxcalais]

I believe oil does soak into cast iron, but only light on the surface, depending how it was machined. Some oils are used to condition the surface of metals, but nothing to the extent where you would notice it. I think this would be rare in an engine though. I am thinking more like in cooking surfaces, knives etc.

You must be thinking of synthetic ester oils clinging to metal surfaces ?

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: Kestas
Oil does not soak into metal parts. Naturally, some people may point out powder metal parts and the microporosity in castings, but per se, oil will not soak into metal.


Well said.

Not sure what's up with the OP and pumping Sea Foam. Just plain strange advice, from well......check the credentials.

 

[scurvy]

Originally Posted By: Kestas
Naturally, some people may point out powder metal parts and the microporosity in castings, but per se, oil will not soak into metal.
Exactly - if the metal has a porous surface (especially powder metal parts), oil will sink into those voids. But voids are not metal!

Use a HDEO in that Jag. As much as it must burn or leak, the low cost will benefit you.

 

[brsmith]

Had a friend who owned a Jag. He pulled the motor and put a Chevy 350 in it.

With all of the LS1 Chevies laying around, find a crashed Camaro, pull the engine,trans, wiring harness and computer and let the games begin.