OEM pads and rotors vs Akebono legit question

one thing to remember generally cheap is NOT good + better usually good BUT costlier! put EBC smooth rotors said to be higher carbon on my 11 fronty SV + EBC yellow pads, much better than OE braking + at 30 thou pads were done, but local hilly driving + some coal hauling shortens the pads life so miles mean little if you drive a lot of interstates + RARELY use the brakes!!! surface rust is NOTHING as well + common in humid or salty NE winters!!
 
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Very true and agree Wilbur, they did leave pad deposits over time and made the rotors pulsate.

BUT doesn't this happen with every brake pad over time that it leaves deposits? And then the rotor pulsation begins?
Not as much with other brands. If you want the best stopping power; get high carbon rotors and semi met pads. The high carbon rotors resist the abrasiveness of the semi met pads, which stop better than the so called "ceramic" pads. Centric tech support guy recommended this to me and it works. Just my opinions...
 
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That is good to know tyman,..can you expand on that for me and give me your opinion on OE Honda pads and rotors vs------your thoughts on an aftermarket better ones?? I am not debating here,...I am genuinely wanting to know before I make a final decision. thanks in advance
Stock parts, especially brake pads, are made to work decently and inexpensively. They are not made like aftermarket parts with better performance and quality in mind. Akebono ProACT pads are generally regarded as some of the best out there as well as the Raybestos EHT Element3 pads. They are both ceramic or ceramic hybrid, which has some pros and cons vs metallic or semi metallic. So something to consider as well.
 
You miss the point. The car is 100% new; nothing worn.
No one missed any point. It doesn’t matter if the car is new or used. You said it’s going to be as good as it’s ever going to be. And that is simply not true. Just because a part is stock or OE, doesn’t mean it’s the best quality.
 
Despite the incredible mystery behind brake pads, there are some very basic "facts" that serve MY needs. A quality set of semi-metallic (G-G friction rated) pads will almost always satisfy my daily driver braking needs. I drive many miles per year, sometimes as much as 10K miles per month.

I don't like ceramic pads, as they never have the friction I want. As a general rule, they have lower cold and hot friction ratings vs a true, high quality, semi metallic.

Someone mentioned Hawk pads above. Their semi-metallic HPS pads are nearly always a good choice for good friction characteristics, hot and cold. Even Hawk says the HPS will absolutely give better braking friction than their ceramics!

Unfortunately, it's become a bit difficult to find GG rated semi metallic pads lately. Manufacturers are removing copper from brake pads, and making other "environmental changes" that adversely affect pad performance.


For my high performance cars, I much prefer Carbotec's XP-8's. They are a bit noisy, make a lot of dust, but oh man do they stop.

Brake pad friction ratings: (1.0 is complete friction) So an F rated pad has a fairly wide range of braking friction capability, with some F rated pads being quite poor. I avoid them.

12-Table8-1.png
 
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Despite the incredible mystery behind brake pads, there are some very basic "facts" that serve MY needs. A quality set of semi-metallic (G-G friction rated) pads will almost always satisfy my daily driver braking needs. I drive many miles per year, sometimes as much as 10K miles per month.

I don't like ceramic pads, as they never have the friction I want. As a general rule, they have lower cold and hot friction ratings vs a true, high quality, semi metallic.

Someone mentioned Hawk pads above. Their semi-metallic HPS pads are nearly always a good choice for good friction characteristics, hot and cold. Even Hawk says the HPS will absolutely give better braking friction than their ceramics!

Unfortunately, it's become a bit difficult to find GG rated semi metallic pads lately. Manufacturers are removing copper from brake pads, and making other "environmental changes" that adversely affect pad performance.


For my high performance cars, I much prefer Carbotec's XP-8's. They are a bit noisy, make a lot of dust, but oh man do they stop.

Brake pad friction ratings: (1.0 is complete friction) So an F rated pad has a fairly wide range of braking friction capability, with some F rated pads being quite poor. I avoid them.

12-Table8-1.png
They sound wonderful with the exception of the noise, that would make me crazy. The dust I can deal with because I detail my own SUV. Interesting chart and a good reference guide. Thanks for you response. But being in Michigan I need something that will work well right out of the garage in 20 degree weather, that is more concerning to me than the hot weather.
 
Stock parts, especially brake pads, are made to work decently and inexpensively. They are not made like aftermarket parts with better performance and quality in mind. Akebono ProACT pads are generally regarded as some of the best out there as well as the Raybestos EHT Element3 pads. They are both ceramic or ceramic hybrid, which has some pros and cons vs metallic or semi metallic. So something to consider as well.
Thanks tyman, yes alot to consider especially since both of those are highly recommended.
 
Not as much with other brands. If you want the best stopping power; get high carbon rotors and semi met pads. The high carbon rotors resist the abrasiveness of the semi met pads, which stop better than the so called "ceramic" pads. Centric tech support guy recommended this to me and it works. Just my opinions...
So Centrics are high carbon rotors? And that is why alot of folks recommend the Centric rotor's and Akebono ProAct pads as a combination? Or what pads did you combine with the Centric rotor's since you did not like ceramic pads as much due to the pad deposits?
 
So Centrics are high carbon rotors? And that is why alot of folks recommend the Centric rotor's and Akebono ProAct pads as a combination? Or what pads did you combine with the Centric rotor's since you did not like ceramic pads as much due to the pad deposits?
They used to offer them. Dont know if they are still available. They had three versions-"regular", cryrogenic treated, and high carbon rotors. The cryrogenic treatment supposedly relieved internal stresses produced during manufacteuring and rotors became more resistant to "warping" and pulsing. Still pulsed after I put the high performance GG ceramic Akebonos on. Could see pad outline deposits on the rotors and felt the resulting pulsing. In my opinion, using the high carbon rotors with the ProAct pads is of no benefit. Maybe Akebono has changed or improved thier ceramic pads-but not for me. Lots of love for them on BITOG and may work well for you and your driving style. In my experience, they were smooth, quiet and clean.

I would call Centric, and other brands, tech support and ask your questions and for their recommendations. They know best.
 
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Despite the incredible mystery behind brake pads, there are some very basic "facts" that serve MY needs. A quality set of semi-metallic (G-G friction rated) pads will almost always satisfy my daily driver braking needs. I drive many miles per year, sometimes as much as 10K miles per month.

I don't like ceramic pads, as they never have the friction I want. As a general rule, they have lower cold and hot friction ratings vs a true, high quality, semi metallic.

Someone mentioned Hawk pads above. Their semi-metallic HPS pads are nearly always a good choice for good friction characteristics, hot and cold. Even Hawk says the HPS will absolutely give better braking friction than their ceramics!

Unfortunately, it's become a bit difficult to find GG rated semi metallic pads lately. Manufacturers are removing copper from brake pads, and making other "environmental changes" that adversely affect pad performance.


For my high performance cars, I much prefer Carbotec's XP-8's. They are a bit noisy, make a lot of dust, but oh man do they stop.

Brake pad friction ratings: (1.0 is complete friction) So an F rated pad has a fairly wide range of braking friction capability, with some F rated pads being quite poor. I avoid them.

12-Table8-1.png
Bcs. they would have to invest some money.
ATE moved their semi-metallics from FF and GF to GG AFTER removing copper.
I mean, these ratings are also a bit misleading. The best track pads I had on BMW were EE.
 
They sound wonderful with the exception of the noise, that would make me crazy. The dust I can deal with because I detail my own SUV. Interesting chart and a good reference guide. Thanks for you response. But being in Michigan I need something that will work well right out of the garage in 20 degree weather, that is more concerning to me than the hot weather.
Hawk HPS is generally free of noise.
 
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Bcs. they would have to invest some money.
ATE moved their semi-metallics from FF and GF to GG AFTER removing copper.
I mean, these ratings are also a bit misleading. The best track pads I had on BMW were EE.

Which brings up a great point. The nearly ubiquitous ceramic pads today require larger rotors and generally bigger braking systems to achieve the same performance as old school metallic pads. However, the bigger brakes have great advantages for heat dissipation and wear and while the friction rating may be lower, the overall track performance of a larger brake system is better.

There is no question that there are some fantastic pads available today, many with unique compounds. Carbotec comes to mind.
 
Actually, bigger braking systems can greatly reduce performance bcs. unsprung weight. It has to be done carefully. That is why BMW has aluminum hat on rotors with Brembo brakes. Lowers weight dramatically.
Problem is, these type of vehicles like Pilot etc. don’t have oversized rotors and pads. They are appliance vehicles with assumption they will be used to drive kids to school etc. Also, cost cutting, basic models have to fit 17” wheels etc.
That is how my 1100lbs BMW ends up with larger pad and rotor surface than what my Sienna had. And had semi-metallic pads from factory.
 
Actually, bigger braking systems can greatly reduce performance bcs. unsprung weight. It has to be done carefully. That is why BMW has aluminum hat on rotors with Brembo brakes. Lowers weight dramatically.
Problem is, these type of vehicles like Pilot etc. don’t have oversized rotors and pads. They are appliance vehicles with assumption they will be used to drive kids to school etc. Also, cost cutting, basic models have to fit 17” wheels etc.
That is how my 1100lbs BMW ends up with larger pad and rotor surface than what my Sienna had. And had semi-metallic pads from factory.
So what combo do you like on your 09 Pilot?
 
My father in law got OE stuff in dealership before moving vehicle to our location.
But the way brakes feel, I will probably go EBC soon.
Had it on my Sienna. BIG improvement performance wise
What is your rotor choice for the EBC. I have read others state that the EBC are soft, I don't want soft brake feel, amkes me feel like they don't work. That is just my uneducated description.
 
What is your rotor choice for the EBC. I have read others state that the EBC are soft, I don't want soft brake feel, amkes me feel like they don't work. That is just my uneducated description.
WHen they say soft, they mean they wear out fast.
Premium. Get EBC or Brembo rotors, EBC greenstuff pads. Pads are the one that will determine feel.
 
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Different vehicle but I put Centric rotors and posi-quiet pads in my 17 Accord. Granted I am mostly on highway for my commute to/from work but they get the job done.

May try oem pads again next time
 
Different vehicle but I put Centric rotors and posi-quiet pads in my 17 Accord. Granted I am mostly on highway for my commute to/from work but they get the job done.

May try oem pads again next time
Thanks O2. I called the dealership and was ready to schedule my appointment, but they have no front rotor's available. You don't know how long it would take to get them until you place the order. I also found out that the Honda OEM rotor's are not coated, that is something I really need/want being in Michigan. I would imagine you would also being in MA.
I was just going to go all OEM to avoid the hassle of trying to get things online etc. So now I think I am back to the Akebono combo's ugh.
 
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