Odyssey AGM Issue

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Mar 28, 2026
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Yet another ask-strangers-on-the-internet post; and my second thread on BITOG!

A few months ago, I replaced the one-and-a-half-year-old factory Honda EFB (made by Clarios) with an Odyssey H5 AGM on my '24 Civic. Why would I replace such a newish battery? I thought I saw battery acid leaking. Plus, I wanted parking mode on my dash-cam to last as long as possible.

Everything was fine until I started to experience difficulty starting my car. And, based on the volt readings from my OBD2 gauge, my battery dropped to 10.8 volts when off. Rather worryingly, voltage would fluctuate in the 14-volt range. I've already warrantied the battery, and the replacement is behaving as expected.

The Civic is driven almost every day on a 40+ mile commute (weekends are mostly short errands). While I know Honda's alternator adjusts output voltage based on load, this page by Varta (owned by Clarios) says swapping an EFB for an AGM is perfectly fine. Based on my OBD2 gauge (it may not be the most accurate, but it's what I have), with my foot on the gas pedal under light loads, voltage is 12.4 volts. When the car senses higher loads, the voltage is 14.4-14.6. It only sees that voltage when the climate control is on high, when the lights are on, or when I'm coasting. I know European cars require a battery registration when swapping to avoid overcharging, but I haven't been able to find anything similar for the Civic. The only thing I could find was resetting the voltage monitor through HDS or a similar diagnostic tool.

The electronic accessories installed in my car that may be correlated:
  • Idlestopper: only enabled when accessory power is engaged
  • Dashcam: hard-wired and set to turn off when it drops below 12.2 Volts
  • Fog light harness: Positive wire connected to positive battery terminal; though fog lights only work when the car is on.
  • AAWireless adapter: only works when the car is in either accessory mode or full power.
  • P3 Gauge: Plugged into the OBD2 port
    • Non-electronic: Terminal protectors (both felt and spray); I highly doubt these cause an issue.

Unless I'm dumb, and my OBD2 gauge always plugged into the port may be contributing to parasitic drain.

Any thoughts before I go ahead and dismiss this as a bad battery? When I reached out to the manufacturer, I asked if I should use a battery maintainer. All they told me was to monitor voltage after I finished driving for the day and make sure that the resting voltage was at least 12.85 volts.
 
Its possible, I had a 6 month old Walmart AGM group 35 fail only a few weeks ago. I charged it several times over a 3 day period and the charge fell to 11.6 each time after 30 minutes. The replacement is running fine so far. This is on a 26 year old Silverado converted to top post battery cables.
 
A few tips for using a quality AGM battery:
- monitor the battery temperature, keep it within recommendations (<60C ?)
- check the mfg for float voltage, it's usually in the 13.3 - 13.8 range
- do not use in a continuous ~14.5 charging / float application
- temperature correcting is encouraged but not often available or correct
 
I would guess it was a fluke bad battery. It happens.
An Odyssey approved battery tender would not be a bad thing to have, and plug in overnight once or twice a week. The Battery Minder 2012AGM comes to mind and is approved. All Battery Minders temperature compensate as well. The 2012 AGM is made specifically for Odyssey and similar "pure lead" AGM batteries. Though I have been using it on a standard plate type AGM for several years with no ill effects.

I have purchased several Battery Minders from this place, as they do not charge sales tax or shipping:
https://www.batterystuff.com/batter...m-charger-maintainer-desulfator-2012-agm.html

If budget allows the 128CEC2 has a bunch more features...various charging rates and chemistry types.

https://www.batterystuff.com/batter...r-and-lithium-charger-maintainer-128cec2.html
 
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