Yes, rub some peanut butter on it. It works!
NuFinish - what am I missing out on?
- Thread starter The Critic
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I have found that an APC or degreaser, and a brush works pretty well for removing dried up polish residue.
Originally Posted By: mwball0
I have tried it, love the stuff! Easy to use, cheap and last a long time. Only problem is it gets on the black trim and looks terrible. Anyone know how to get it off?
NuFinish says to use mineral spirits, I think. Armor All has worked for me, too.
I have tried it, love the stuff! Easy to use, cheap and last a long time. Only problem is it gets on the black trim and looks terrible. Anyone know how to get it off?
NuFinish says to use mineral spirits, I think. Armor All has worked for me, too.
I have found the best way is to tape the car's trim before using a product that will be a bugger to remove.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I have found that an APC or degreaser, and a brush works pretty well for removing dried up polish residue.
Lately, I've found that lacquer thinner works even better.
I have found that an APC or degreaser, and a brush works pretty well for removing dried up polish residue.
Lately, I've found that lacquer thinner works even better.
Mask off the black trim .....actually all trim and lights works the best for me.
I just used this stuff the other day on the Uplander. It went on and wiped off easily and gave it a decent shine. Hopefully it will provide some protection, thats the only reason I used it. The Uplander gets a auto car wash about every month or so.
I used it in November on my Century. I clayed the car, and put on two coats of Nu Finish a couple of weeks apart. It is not beading water at all now. FWIW Rejex and Collinite 845 or 476s seem to bead water much longer in my experience.
I've tried a lot of AZ off the shelf stuff, rejex and the NuFinish. I thought the NuFinish was just as good as anything I tried until I tried the Armor All Extreme Shield. It a lot different than the drying finishes, being an oil that you just wipe on. It makes the paint look wet, beads water like crazy and keeps beading water longer.
NuFinish is awesome, especially the new formula. I put this stuff on my Charger patrol car maybe 2 months ago and it still beads like new. This includes taking it to the car wash at least once or twice a week. I'm going to reapply in April.
I have used NF on and off for years is it the best in the shine department NO! is it the worst NO! is it easy to use and lasts a long time Yes! I pretty much drive for a living as an on the road salesmen and my car is exposed to tough new England winters I do not have the time to spend lots of time with waxing I want something that will hold up and I New Finish my cars twice a year and when I trade them in usually around 200,000 miles later the dealer always says they look great for the beating they take every day and that's all that matters to me.
I want to update this thread in response to Qwerty. So Ive recreated the CD test with Nu Finish. Ive actually done the CD test before with ONR. And my conclusion with ONR was that dirt particles causes marring - not the product itself. I came to the same conclusion with Nu Finish. It is dirt/debri that gets stuck inside the MF that causes scratches. Nu Finish does not marr.
Also these dirt particles are almost invisible, yet they cause heavy marring. The dust that accumulate on your car after a drive are visible - just imagine the kind of wreckage they do on brand new paint.
This is why I recommend PPF.
Also these dirt particles are almost invisible, yet they cause heavy marring. The dust that accumulate on your car after a drive are visible - just imagine the kind of wreckage they do on brand new paint.
This is why I recommend PPF.
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