BTW what color is the Rotella ELC & G-05 stuff?
Nowadays what coolant should I use in my Ford 351W
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Kestas
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The data Ramblejam's presents shows how tough Dex-Cool is on solder and copper. Even using regular green I had the radiator on my 71 Cutlass spring a leak. It corroded through a solder joint at the water line high up on the radiator. Thankfully I could salvage the radiator by unsoldering the endcap, cleaning it, and resoldering. The brass components were still healthy and uncorroded.
Originally Posted By: Nicasio
BTW what color is the Rotella ELC & G-05 stuff?
G-05 is a very faint yellow... very. IMHO, too faint. I think it should be a little easier to see. Really my only complaint about it.
ELC looks like cherry Kool-Aid.
BTW what color is the Rotella ELC & G-05 stuff?
G-05 is a very faint yellow... very. IMHO, too faint. I think it should be a little easier to see. Really my only complaint about it.
ELC looks like cherry Kool-Aid.
I have been using Rotella ELC in 4 forklifts with brass/copper radiators. 2 of them are 23 years old on the original radiators.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I have been using Rotella ELC in 4 forklifts with brass/copper radiators. 2 of them are 23 years old on the original radiators.
That's good to hear! I guess the Rotella ELC costs a few dollars more than the others, but well worth it. Not like my Mustang takes that much coolant anyway.
I have been using Rotella ELC in 4 forklifts with brass/copper radiators. 2 of them are 23 years old on the original radiators.
That's good to hear! I guess the Rotella ELC costs a few dollars more than the others, but well worth it. Not like my Mustang takes that much coolant anyway.
Not like you're going to have to change it much anyway, either. It's a true ELC. 5 years/150,000 miles.
Yeah 3 gallons will be less than $45. No big deal at all
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Not like you're going to have to change it much anyway, either. It's a true ELC. 5 years/150,000 miles.
I was actually just down at the Tractor Supply store Saturday, and happened to have a look at a jug of Rotella ELC, and according to the jug, their ELC is good for 300,000 miles without SCA additives, and 600,000 WITH SCA additives.
Of course, that would seem to assume use in a diesel engine.. I wonder if it lasts as long in a gas engine.
Not like you're going to have to change it much anyway, either. It's a true ELC. 5 years/150,000 miles.
I was actually just down at the Tractor Supply store Saturday, and happened to have a look at a jug of Rotella ELC, and according to the jug, their ELC is good for 300,000 miles without SCA additives, and 600,000 WITH SCA additives.
Of course, that would seem to assume use in a diesel engine.. I wonder if it lasts as long in a gas engine.
The product data I have been given is that if it is being used in a non-OTR application, then it is 150. I have a giant sheaf of test strips. I don't dump until the test strips tell me to.
Hey DoubleWasp this is off topic, but how long have u been running the M1 0w-40 in the Navigator? Also, why the switch & what was ur previous fill?? Thinkin of going with it in the Mustang as well. I run it in my E46 at the moment.
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I guess I have been running it for about half a year now, or maybe longer?
I switched because of two known defects with this engine (5.4 3V):
1. Weak oil pump housing that allows unintended and unregulated oil bypass out of the pump at high oil temps
2. Defective cam phasers that allow the engine to go "chak-chak-chak-chak" at about 1500 rpm at under light throttle
I have a bunch of it for my 911 and Benz, so I started using it in my Navigator as well in order to quiet the phasers and make the pressure more stable at higher oil temps.
Using M1 0/40 has produced the first two oil changes in this truck's life where there was literally nothing to wipe off of the magnetic drain plug. Wear numbers at 10-12k miles match the universal averages for what this engine should have at 4800 miles according to Blackstone and ALS Tribology (NAPA Test Kit), and I beat the dog excrement out of this engine. 173k miles now, and no sign of slowing down.
Sadly, I'm going to be headed to Castrol Edge when my current supply of "old" M1 0/40 is done. The new "FS" appears to be a complete knockdown in the shear department. When oil shearing occurs, my oil pressure gets too low to return the cam phasers to the idle setting (requires 25 psi min). This truck and my German stuff are going to be getting Castrol from there on out.
I switched because of two known defects with this engine (5.4 3V):
1. Weak oil pump housing that allows unintended and unregulated oil bypass out of the pump at high oil temps
2. Defective cam phasers that allow the engine to go "chak-chak-chak-chak" at about 1500 rpm at under light throttle
I have a bunch of it for my 911 and Benz, so I started using it in my Navigator as well in order to quiet the phasers and make the pressure more stable at higher oil temps.
Using M1 0/40 has produced the first two oil changes in this truck's life where there was literally nothing to wipe off of the magnetic drain plug. Wear numbers at 10-12k miles match the universal averages for what this engine should have at 4800 miles according to Blackstone and ALS Tribology (NAPA Test Kit), and I beat the dog excrement out of this engine. 173k miles now, and no sign of slowing down.
Sadly, I'm going to be headed to Castrol Edge when my current supply of "old" M1 0/40 is done. The new "FS" appears to be a complete knockdown in the shear department. When oil shearing occurs, my oil pressure gets too low to return the cam phasers to the idle setting (requires 25 psi min). This truck and my German stuff are going to be getting Castrol from there on out.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I guess I have been running it for about half a year now, or maybe longer?
I switched because of two known defects with this engine (5.4 3V):
1. Weak oil pump housing that allows unintended and unregulated oil bypass out of the pump at high oil temps
2. Defective cam phasers that allow the engine to go "chak-chak-chak-chak" at about 1500 rpm at under light throttle
I have a bunch of it for my 911 and Benz, so I started using it in my Navigator as well in order to quiet the phasers and make the pressure more stable at higher oil temps.
Using M1 0/40 has produced the first two oil changes in this truck's life where there was literally nothing to wipe off of the magnetic drain plug. Wear numbers at 10-12k miles match the universal averages for what this engine should have at 4800 miles according to Blackstone and ALS Tribology (NAPA Test Kit), and I beat the dog excrement out of this engine. 173k miles now, and no sign of slowing down.
Sadly, I'm going to be headed to Castrol Edge when my current supply of "old" M1 0/40 is done. The new "FS" appears to be a complete knockdown in the shear department. When oil shearing occurs, my oil pressure gets too low to return the cam phasers to the idle setting (requires 25 psi min). This truck and my German stuff are going to be getting Castrol from there on out.
Well that's good news for the Nav. I have a lot of the M1 0w40 for my BMW sitting on the shelf. Would you think I'd benefit switching out the 10w30 in the Mustang? Car is hardly driven so I just change the oil out yearly.
I guess I have been running it for about half a year now, or maybe longer?
I switched because of two known defects with this engine (5.4 3V):
1. Weak oil pump housing that allows unintended and unregulated oil bypass out of the pump at high oil temps
2. Defective cam phasers that allow the engine to go "chak-chak-chak-chak" at about 1500 rpm at under light throttle
I have a bunch of it for my 911 and Benz, so I started using it in my Navigator as well in order to quiet the phasers and make the pressure more stable at higher oil temps.
Using M1 0/40 has produced the first two oil changes in this truck's life where there was literally nothing to wipe off of the magnetic drain plug. Wear numbers at 10-12k miles match the universal averages for what this engine should have at 4800 miles according to Blackstone and ALS Tribology (NAPA Test Kit), and I beat the dog excrement out of this engine. 173k miles now, and no sign of slowing down.
Sadly, I'm going to be headed to Castrol Edge when my current supply of "old" M1 0/40 is done. The new "FS" appears to be a complete knockdown in the shear department. When oil shearing occurs, my oil pressure gets too low to return the cam phasers to the idle setting (requires 25 psi min). This truck and my German stuff are going to be getting Castrol from there on out.
Well that's good news for the Nav. I have a lot of the M1 0w40 for my BMW sitting on the shelf. Would you think I'd benefit switching out the 10w30 in the Mustang? Car is hardly driven so I just change the oil out yearly.
Edit: Forgot you have the SC on your Stang.
I'd be partial to VR1 10/30 For your Stang, but the "old" M1 will do right by it as well.
I'd be partial to VR1 10/30 For your Stang, but the "old" M1 will do right by it as well.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Edit: Forgot you have the SC on your Stang.
I'd be partial to VR1 10/30 For your Stang, but the "old" M1 will do right by it as well.
Oh I forgot to say that my Vortech SC is a self contained unit. Did not have to plumb into the oil pan. SC uses its own special oil.
Edit: Forgot you have the SC on your Stang.
I'd be partial to VR1 10/30 For your Stang, but the "old" M1 will do right by it as well.
Oh I forgot to say that my Vortech SC is a self contained unit. Did not have to plumb into the oil pan. SC uses its own special oil.
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