(Mustang, Chevy 355, Holley Spread Bore Carb.) Im not getting the power I did a couple of weeks out of my engine. The low-end seems to have gone away. I mean "the punch". I used to be able to tap the gas at a red light and your head would kinda throw back a little. I still have nice (scary) power at around 4-5500 with a healthy 2nd gear scratch. I know the secondaires are vacuum on this. Any way to check to see if they work without have to rev so high sitting still? (sensative neighbors) The motor has around 5 to 7000 miles on it. I did take out my thermostat and change to restrictor because of heating issues. Now I think I MAY have under-heating issues going on. On the way home while ago I noticed it ran a little better when it finaly reached 180. (temp) But still the low end was really not there. Any hot-rodders can help out there? This car is all old school front to back.
Not getting the power it was
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Originally Posted By: lifeson2112
Chevy 355
Found your problem.
Drop a good Ford 351 in there and you will get your power back and probably more.
Chevy 355
Found your problem.
Drop a good Ford 351 in there and you will get your power back and probably more.
whatever...
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Having "heating issues" isn't going to be resolved by removing the thermostat. You've instead just created an environment for sludge and carbon build-up instead by not allowing it to get to a healthy operating temperature. You should have a 180 degree T-stat in there.
Secondly:
When the car was "modified" ([censored]) by the previous owner, was the cooling system upgraded to handle the increased displacement? The fox engine bays are not big. The airflow through the rad is heavily restricted by the body dynamics of the car, so a beefier rad is often required with modified engines to keep them cool.
Is the car equipped with a mechanical or electric fan? If mechanical, is the fan close enough to the rad? Is the factory (Ford) shroud still being used?
Or maybe the car is just having an allergic reaction to the engine, LOL
Secondly:
When the car was "modified" ([censored]) by the previous owner, was the cooling system upgraded to handle the increased displacement? The fox engine bays are not big. The airflow through the rad is heavily restricted by the body dynamics of the car, so a beefier rad is often required with modified engines to keep them cool.
Is the car equipped with a mechanical or electric fan? If mechanical, is the fan close enough to the rad? Is the factory (Ford) shroud still being used?
Or maybe the car is just having an allergic reaction to the engine, LOL
Originally Posted By: lifeson2112
Yeah well I can do without that kind of [censored] reply. Yeah your a frikkin brain child.
Originally Posted By: lifeson2112
"North Carolina" Found your problem b&tch. Right there. NORTH, key word.
You come here asking for help and then talk to people like this? I don't get it.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Or maybe the car is just having an allergic reaction to the engine, LOL
Good one.
Seriously o/p lighten up. We try to help here but most of us have a sense of humor! LOL
Since you said it was "old school" I'm assuming you have a distributor? Maybe double check the timing, double check there are no vacuum leaks anywhere. Many years ago I had a Ford V8 that the nuts that held the carb to the intake would vibrate loose over time.
Yeah well I can do without that kind of [censored] reply. Yeah your a frikkin brain child.
Originally Posted By: lifeson2112
"North Carolina" Found your problem b&tch. Right there. NORTH, key word.
You come here asking for help and then talk to people like this? I don't get it.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Or maybe the car is just having an allergic reaction to the engine, LOL
Seriously o/p lighten up. We try to help here but most of us have a sense of humor! LOL
Since you said it was "old school" I'm assuming you have a distributor? Maybe double check the timing, double check there are no vacuum leaks anywhere. Many years ago I had a Ford V8 that the nuts that held the carb to the intake would vibrate loose over time.
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oldmaninsc:
Here is the pic he posted in his transmission thread:
Looks to me like a stock fox rad (not the HD one) with an electric fan, probably a flexalite or something from the looks of things.
Engine is moved WAY back in the bay (this seems to be common with the "Chevy Swaps") and you can see the distributor is inside the cowling area.
The trans tunnel has obviously been cut/beat/modified to fit the engine way back there.
Pretty basic looking combo to me:
-Edelbrock Torker II (from what it looks like) intake
-Iron heads
-vacuum sec Holley
-stock style water pump
-stock GM power steering
-stock GM style alternator
-MSD HEI distributor
It is backed by a TH350 with a stall and reverse manual valve body from what we determined in the other thread.
Here is the pic he posted in his transmission thread:
Looks to me like a stock fox rad (not the HD one) with an electric fan, probably a flexalite or something from the looks of things.
Engine is moved WAY back in the bay (this seems to be common with the "Chevy Swaps") and you can see the distributor is inside the cowling area.
The trans tunnel has obviously been cut/beat/modified to fit the engine way back there.
Pretty basic looking combo to me:
-Edelbrock Torker II (from what it looks like) intake
-Iron heads
-vacuum sec Holley
-stock style water pump
-stock GM power steering
-stock GM style alternator
-MSD HEI distributor
It is backed by a TH350 with a stall and reverse manual valve body from what we determined in the other thread.
Interesting. Yeah that engine does sit back quite a ways doesn't it?
With stock pulleys and a stock (I assume) water pump, most SBC's will keep their cool pretty well. I wonder what kind of heating issue he's having? I'd bet that upgrading to the HD Fox rad and a better dual electric fan will solve most of the issues. I'd put a 180 Robertshaw stat in there too.
If you can check timing, I'd set the initial at around 14*. Cammed SBC's like a bit more initial timing. I thought I remembered reading that it had Dart heads? If so, they typically have a better, more efficient combustion chamber and don't need as much total timing. Something in the way of 35ish degrees is good to shoot for to be safe on pump gas. For now, disconnect the vacuum advance can. Once you get the timing nailed down, you can add an adjustable one to dial in some more timing at part throttle cruise. This will help boost cylinder pressure (typically lower at cruise due to low throttle opening) and gain you some fuel economy and throttle response.
For carb tuning, I've got a pretty comprehensive way to tune a Holley...
If you can check timing, I'd set the initial at around 14*. Cammed SBC's like a bit more initial timing. I thought I remembered reading that it had Dart heads? If so, they typically have a better, more efficient combustion chamber and don't need as much total timing. Something in the way of 35ish degrees is good to shoot for to be safe on pump gas. For now, disconnect the vacuum advance can. Once you get the timing nailed down, you can add an adjustable one to dial in some more timing at part throttle cruise. This will help boost cylinder pressure (typically lower at cruise due to low throttle opening) and gain you some fuel economy and throttle response.
For carb tuning, I've got a pretty comprehensive way to tune a Holley...
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Originally Posted By: The_Eric
With stock pulleys and a stock (I assume) water pump, most SBC's will keep their cool pretty well. I wonder what kind of heating issue he's having? I'd bet that upgrading to the HD Fox rad and a better dual electric fan will solve most of the issues. I'd put a 180 Robertshaw stat in there too.
If you can check timing, I'd set the initial at around 14*. Cammed SBC's like a bit more initial timing. I thought I remembered reading that it had Dart heads? If so, they typically have a better, more efficient combustion chamber and don't need as much total timing. Something in the way of 35ish degrees is good to shoot for to be safe on pump gas. For now, disconnect the vacuum advance can. Once you get the timing nailed down, you can add an adjustable one to dial in some more timing at part throttle cruise. This will help boost cylinder pressure (typically lower at cruise due to low throttle opening) and gain you some fuel economy and throttle response.
For carb tuning, I've got a pretty comprehensive way to tune a Holley...
I don't recall him ever saying it had Dart heads?
Quote:
4 bolt 350 bored .30 to 355 (approx)...cam info, I dont have. The previous owner would know. I cant get a hold of him though.
and:
Quote:
I do know the whole engine and transmission were in a circle track (dirt) car.
My buddy with a similar engine (and history) had World Products Sportsman II's on his.
Anyways, as I said on the previous page, it looks like the stock (non HD) fox rad in there. If that fan is junk (which it may be, the flexalite ones aren't all that popular with the Mustang guys because they don't move enough air) then there simply isn't enough cooling capacity there for that engine most likely.
The HD/Police rad and a good Taurus/SHO (what I have) or Mark VIII fan is what is needed.
With stock pulleys and a stock (I assume) water pump, most SBC's will keep their cool pretty well. I wonder what kind of heating issue he's having? I'd bet that upgrading to the HD Fox rad and a better dual electric fan will solve most of the issues. I'd put a 180 Robertshaw stat in there too.
If you can check timing, I'd set the initial at around 14*. Cammed SBC's like a bit more initial timing. I thought I remembered reading that it had Dart heads? If so, they typically have a better, more efficient combustion chamber and don't need as much total timing. Something in the way of 35ish degrees is good to shoot for to be safe on pump gas. For now, disconnect the vacuum advance can. Once you get the timing nailed down, you can add an adjustable one to dial in some more timing at part throttle cruise. This will help boost cylinder pressure (typically lower at cruise due to low throttle opening) and gain you some fuel economy and throttle response.
For carb tuning, I've got a pretty comprehensive way to tune a Holley...
I don't recall him ever saying it had Dart heads?
Quote:
4 bolt 350 bored .30 to 355 (approx)...cam info, I dont have. The previous owner would know. I cant get a hold of him though.
and:
Quote:
I do know the whole engine and transmission were in a circle track (dirt) car.
My buddy with a similar engine (and history) had World Products Sportsman II's on his.
Anyways, as I said on the previous page, it looks like the stock (non HD) fox rad in there. If that fan is junk (which it may be, the flexalite ones aren't all that popular with the Mustang guys because they don't move enough air) then there simply isn't enough cooling capacity there for that engine most likely.
The HD/Police rad and a good Taurus/SHO (what I have) or Mark VIII fan is what is needed.
uhh... MAYBE if the engine doesn't get up to temp, the choke doesn't open? Check the simplest stuff first.
Originally Posted By: NYEngineer
uhh... MAYBE if the engine doesn't get up to temp, the choke doesn't open? Check the simplest stuff first.
Is the choke on those electric? I can't tell from the photo.
I've seen them both ways. Some of my old Ford V8's had a clip to hold the heater hose up next to the choke housing. Let's just say in sub 0 weather it didn't work very well. For some of those cars I went to a junkyard and would get electric housings and re-wire it to work when the key was in the running position.
uhh... MAYBE if the engine doesn't get up to temp, the choke doesn't open? Check the simplest stuff first.
Is the choke on those electric? I can't tell from the photo.
I've seen them both ways. Some of my old Ford V8's had a clip to hold the heater hose up next to the choke housing. Let's just say in sub 0 weather it didn't work very well. For some of those cars I went to a junkyard and would get electric housings and re-wire it to work when the key was in the running position.
I agree on the Taurus fan. The stock e-fan in my Jeep is basically a slightly modded Taurus fan in a different shroud, and it moves a heck of a lot of air on high speed.
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
I agree on the Taurus fan. The stock e-fan in my Jeep is basically a slightly modded Taurus fan in a different shroud, and it moves a heck of a lot of air on high speed.
Who made the SHO fans for Ford (or were they made in-house by Motorcraft)??
I agree on the Taurus fan. The stock e-fan in my Jeep is basically a slightly modded Taurus fan in a different shroud, and it moves a heck of a lot of air on high speed.
Who made the SHO fans for Ford (or were they made in-house by Motorcraft)??
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Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
I agree on the Taurus fan. The stock e-fan in my Jeep is basically a slightly modded Taurus fan in a different shroud, and it moves a heck of a lot of air on high speed.
Who made the SHO fans for Ford (or were they made in-house by Motorcraft)??
The Mark VIII is the "big girl"; it moves an OBSCENE amount of air.
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
I agree on the Taurus fan. The stock e-fan in my Jeep is basically a slightly modded Taurus fan in a different shroud, and it moves a heck of a lot of air on high speed.
Who made the SHO fans for Ford (or were they made in-house by Motorcraft)??
The Mark VIII is the "big girl"; it moves an OBSCENE amount of air.
Is it hesitating pulling away from a light? If it truly doesn't have as much power in the lower rpm range than a couple of weeks ago, you have a drivability problem. What happens when you punch the gas from a dead stop?
get rid if the holley.
The Holley isn't the cause of his problem.
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