Normal engine oil Temp?

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So I was working in my 1984 Ford F150 5.0L (Juanita) and out of curiosity I checked her tempurature at the oil filter and recorded 230°f and at the gooseneck (water outlet) was at 197°. She was only idling for about 20mins. Do yall think these temperatures are alittle high or is that to be expected at idle? Oil type is 5w30 RGT.
 
My truck's oil temp hovers between 210-220F during normal driving. I have seen it go as high as 240F during a long mountainous drives. This is with PP 5W-20.
 
Naw, serious bro, you're totally fine.

Oil temps at first, will always lag behind your indicated coolant temps. After about what?

25? 30? minutes of steady state operation, without jumping harshly on the pedal...oil temps will equate to exceed coolant temperatures so slightly. If you do not have an oil cooler, typically oil temps can and will exceed coolant temperatures to a slight degree. They exceed it alarmingly if you're running hard, towing, racing - without a properly equipped and cooled model. (HD towing/racing model)

I would say if you were totally flat-out hammer-down flogging your beast, towing 7000+ lbs through Arizona or California death valley 130+F temperatures and recorded that result?

No worries. ^.^

My unmodded rig will heft up under 225F at full hot idle. Internal temps can blister, unseen at over 500F. If she overheats and the computer catches it at 400F or so, she immediately condemns the sump's load and demands an immediate oil change and bumps you back with "Reduced Power Mode" on the DIC.

You'll be lucky to raise her above an idle to push her over the hump into your driveway in that state. ;>

If you demand and indeed, extract hard; hot...monstrous performance from your rig? If the oil change/service light beams 15 metric megajoule's worth of shame and kittens in your face?


Dude!

Frackracklin' hang back, wait for it to bloody cool and change it. Along with a filter. If it's still smokin' blazing, rape face hot and dangerous, let it cool, fool!
But honest, bro - you're totes overthinking this if you got good synthetic in yer sump and a decent OEM+ specced filter fer yer oil and air.

Edit: Fur even gr8er schpielling and grammahticalz results.
 
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Naw, serious bro, you're totally fine.

Oil temps at first, will always lag behind your indicated coolant temps. After about what?

25? 30? minutes of steady state operation, without jumping harshly on the pedal...oil temps will equate to exceed coolant temperatures so slightly. If you do not have an oil cooler, typically oil temps can and will exceed coolant temperatures to a slight degree. They exceed it alarmingly if you're running hard, towing, racing - without a properly equipped and cooled model. (HD towing/racing model)

I would say if you were totally flat-out hammer-down flogging your beast, towing 7000+ lbs through Arizona or California death valley 130+F temperatures and recorded that result?

No worries. ^.^

My unmodded rig will heft up under 225F at full hot idle. Internal temps can blister, unseen at over 500F. If she overheats and the computer catches it at 400F or so, she immediately condemns the sump's load and demands an immediate oil change and bumps you back with "Reduced Power Mode" on the DIC.

You'll be lucky to raise her above an idle to push her over the hump into your driveway in that state. ;>

If you demand and indeed, extract hard; hot...monstrous performance from your rig? If the oil change/service light beams 15 metric megajoule's worth of shame and kittens in your face?


Dude!

Frackracklin' hang back, wait for it to bloody cool and change it. Along with a filter. If it's still smokin' blazing, rape face hot and dangerous, let it cool, fool!
But honest, bro - you're totes overthinking this if you got good synthetic in yer sump and a decent OEM+ specced filter fer yer oil and air.

Edit: Fur even gr8er schpielling and grammahticalz results.
That oil only has 200 miles on it. It's the shell RGT 5w30. I just wasn't expecting 230°f just idling. Truck is just a short bed single bed peapaw truck. I haven't towed with it yet. Sense folks think those temps are fine, I wont worry about it. Thanks!!!😁
 
So I was working in my 1984 Ford F150 5.0L (Juanita) and out of curiosity I checked her tempurature at the oil filter and recorded 230°f and at the gooseneck (water outlet) was at 197°. She was only idling for about 20mins. Do yall think these temperatures are alittle high or is that to be expected at idle? Oil type is 5w30 RGT.
Did you check it with an IR gun? Many are only accurate with flat black surfaces, and those are the calibrated ones.
Emissivity will vary by a factor of 10 with polished steel objects being on the low end low and matte black being high.

I was involved in proprietary LCP material injection molding development for Bosch and Tesla parts (with some funding by Sumitomo and GM) in my startup. I employed Ir and tape and wire thermal measurements as the mold sprue and runners and mold proper had to heated to get good part forming - and noticed the limitations of IR temp guns. But most satin finished should be close enough, and in practice, your gun may likely have been reading a bit low rather than high.

Back to your temp, it seems a bit hot. Does the truck have mechanical radiator fan? Since it wasnt moving, you were getting a pretty good heat soak; still 230F seems high.

Iron Block and heads on that engine?
 
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Did you check it with an IR gun? Many are only accurate with flat black surfaces, and those are the calibrated ones.
Emissivity will vary by a factor of 10 with polished steel objects being on the low end low and matte black being high.

I was involved in proprietary LCP material injection molding development for Bosch and Tesla parts (with some funding by Sumitomo and GM) in my startup. I employed Ir and tape and wire thermal measurements as the mold sprue and runners and mold proper had to heated to get good part forming - and noticed the limitations of IR temp guns. But most satin finished should be close enough, and in practice, your gun may likely have been reading a bit low rather than high.

Back to your temp, it seems a bit hot. Does the truck have mechanical radiator fan? Since it wasnt moving, you were getting a pretty good heat soak; still 230F seems high.

Iron Block and heads on that engine?
Engine is Windsor 5.0L or 302ci. All iron. Has a new fan clutch, radiator is about two years old. I do have a all aluminum 3 core cause the coolant temp creeps up in the higher end on the interstate making me think that it cant keep up. Thermostate is a motorcraft 192°f which is OEM temp and quality. Water pump is also new and was replaced with the radiator by previous owner. I was checking it with a IR gun on the white motorcraft oil filters.
 
So I was working in my 1984 Ford F150 5.0L (Juanita) and out of curiosity I checked her tempurature at the oil filter and recorded 230°f and at the gooseneck (water outlet) was at 197°. She was only idling for about 20mins. Do yall think these temperatures are alittle high or is that to be expected at idle? Oil type is 5w30 RGT.
My old F250 is named Julio. Too bad they will never meet, LOL. I never named one of my rigs before, but somebody scratched the name "Julio" in tiny letters on it before I bought it from a construction company. So now he's "Julio".
 
That's interesting that the temp. creeps up on the interstate. Usually it's the opposite.

Engine is Windsor 5.0L or 302ci. All iron. Has a new fan clutch, radiator is about two years old. I do have a all aluminum 3 core cause the coolant temp creeps up in the higher end on the interstate making me think that it cant keep up. Thermostate is a motorcraft 192°f which is OEM temp and quality. Water pump is also new and was replaced with the radiator by previous owner. I was checking it with a IR gun on the white motorcraft oil filters.

Have an assistant help you rev the engine after she's hot and the thermostat opens. You only need about 2-3k RPM. As hoses age they can get soft and kink/collapse when the water pump flow increases and restrict flow...
 
Have an assistant help you rev the engine after she's hot and the thermostat opens. You only need about 2-3k RPM. As hoses age they can get soft and kink/collapse when the water pump flow increases and restrict flow...
I wondered the same thing. The previous owner replaced radiator, waterpump, and all hoses. Both hoses top and bottom have springs ok them. I'll see how it does with a 3 core.
 
That oil only has 200 miles on it. It's the shell RGT 5w30. I just wasn't expecting 230°f just idling. Truck is just a short bed single bed peapaw truck. I haven't towed with it yet. Sense folks think those temps are fine, I wont worry about it. Thanks!!!😁
I find that to be too hot too fast. But what can you do about it? If you see those temps while driving (higher rpm and load) all is good but just idling for 30 minutes?
 
No. Over 60mph my van's coolant temp will rise slightly and the oil pressure will drop slightly.
It has to be either an air flow or circulation issue. Air flow through the radiator should be maximized on the highway.
 
It has to be either an air flow or circulation issue. Air flow through the radiator should be maximized on the highway.
Yes it's an air flow problem. It's a full size Dodge 2500 van. Over 60mph the wind resistance the van has to push through increases thus increasing the load on the engine. Increasing the load on the bottom end bearings increases engine oil heat putting a greater load on the coolant system. Under 60 I get great fuel economy. Over 60, not so much.

I made a mistake on my earlier post. Over 60mph the oil pressure slightly increases (it's a real gauge).
 
Yes it's an air flow problem. It's a full size Dodge 2500 van. Over 60mph the wind resistance the van has to push through increases thus increasing the load on the engine. Increasing the load on the bottom end bearings increases engine oil heat putting a greater load on the coolant system. Under 60 I get great fuel economy. Over 60, not so much.

I made a mistake on my earlier post. Over 60mph the oil pressure slightly increases (it's a real gauge).
Gotcha! I guess they designed it with 60mph as a reasonable avg. speed by end users. You can always switch to an electrical fan for higher speeds if you feel the need, but probably not really worth the effort. A nice higher HTHS oil should keep that engine golden.
 
As a european i am not really familiar with this engine but i assume it does not have an oil to water heat exchanger or the option to fit one.

My bmw e90 325i probably has one of the more(most) complicated heat management systems and under normal cruise enviroments it also allows the oil to be around the 230f.

Drawback: Hotter oil = deterioates faster because of the heat
Benefit: Hotter oil= gasoline and watermoisture vapourise only above prolounged temps above 190f (some vehicles run very cold and have a lot of problems with sludge)

I am curious what shows up in your next measurements.
However i wouldnt be to worried about it because 230f is acceptable if it doesnt go any higher.

I ran my previous european Peugeot 206 1.6 16v inline four with a lot of prolonged high speed dutch ''autobahn'' drives and it would see oil temps of 300f for longer periods. I was a teenager back then so i also sticked to the 22k OCI because it was cheap :) Engine was like new inside with 220k miles.
 
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