Naw, serious bro, you're totally fine.
Oil temps at first, will always lag behind your indicated coolant temps. After about what?
25? 30? minutes of steady state operation, without jumping harshly on the pedal...oil temps will equate to exceed coolant temperatures so slightly. If you do not have an oil cooler, typically oil temps can and will exceed coolant temperatures to a slight degree. They exceed it alarmingly if you're running hard, towing, racing - without a properly equipped and cooled model. (HD towing/racing model)
I would say if you were totally flat-out hammer-down flogging your beast, towing 7000+ lbs through Arizona or California death valley 130+F temperatures and recorded that result?
No worries. ^.^
My unmodded rig will heft up under 225F at full hot idle. Internal temps can blister, unseen at over 500F. If she overheats and the computer catches it at 400F or so, she immediately condemns the sump's load and demands an immediate oil change and bumps you back with "Reduced Power Mode" on the DIC.
You'll be lucky to raise her above an idle to push her over the hump into your driveway in that state. ;>
If you demand and indeed, extract hard; hot...monstrous performance from your rig? If the oil change/service light beams 15 metric megajoule's worth of shame and kittens in your face?
Dude!
Frackracklin' hang back, wait for it to bloody cool and change it. Along with a filter. If it's still smokin' blazing, rape face hot and dangerous, let it cool, fool!
But honest, bro - you're totes overthinking this if you got good synthetic in yer sump and a decent OEM+ specced filter fer yer oil and air.
Edit: Fur even gr8er schpielling and grammahticalz results.