Nonstop Running (8th day) for EU2000

[Cujet]

You wouldn't happen to know if that was conventional or synthetic 5w-30, would you? It's not that I would run either in one of my generators up north here, let alone in your climate, but inquiring minds want to know.

I think Mark used conventional 5W-30 and 10W-30. I suggested otherwise, but he followed the owners manual. The result was (just like my 2 Honda water pumps) engine failure on the exact oil the manufacturer requires.

I've not posted the story of my Honda water pump failures recently. I was de-watering my "jungle-like" Jupiter Farms lot, so the environmental people could make a positive wetlands assessment prior to construction. I used the correct oil and ran the pumps 24/7 with daily oil changes. The first pump destroyed the connecting rod and I chalked it up to a bad engine, which was replaced under warranty. The second engine failed in the same manner and I returned it for a refund, as it was not cheap. The Honda dealer was amazed, and compliant. I purchased a Kawasaki water pump, and chose M1, 15W-50. I still have the Kawasaki pump. It powers my fire hose. The stagnant air around my water pump allowed the engine to overheat it's oil. Which resulted in insufficient film strength and rod failure.

Post hurricane generator use is similar. It can, under the right conditions, heat the oil beyond it's ability to protect.

I learned my lesson early on. Bought a thermocouple in more recent years, and was astounded at the small engine oil temps. 265 deg F was the normal oil temp. By way of comparison, my Cessna has a oil temp redline of 240. And it uses 50 viscosity oil, not 5 viscosity.

 

[Cujet]

I wanted to add that the local small engine repair shop had a mountain of failed generators after the 2005 hurricanes. They stocked M1, 15W-50 and insisted that owners use it. They make the same claim I do. In some situations, with some engines, the only solution is a robust oil.

 

[dlundblad]

I think Mark used conventional 5W-30 and 10W-30. I suggested otherwise, but he followed the owners manual. The result was (just like my 2 Honda water pumps) engine failure on the exact oil the manufacturer requires.

I've not posted the story of my Honda water pump failures recently. I was de-watering my "jungle-like" Jupiter Farms lot, so the environmental people could make a positive wetlands assessment prior to construction. I used the correct oil and ran the pumps 24/7 with daily oil changes. The first pump destroyed the connecting rod and I chalked it up to a bad engine, which was replaced under warranty. The second engine failed in the same manner and I returned it for a refund, as it was not cheap. The Honda dealer was amazed, and compliant. I purchased a Kawasaki water pump, and chose M1, 15W-50. I still have the Kawasaki pump. It powers my fire hose. The stagnant air around my water pump allowed the engine to overheat it's oil. Which resulted in insufficient film strength and rod failure.

Post hurricane generator use is similar. It can, under the right conditions, heat the oil beyond it's ability to protect.

I learned my lesson early on. Bought a thermocouple in more recent years, and was astounded at the small engine oil temps. 265 deg F was the normal oil temp. By way of comparison, my Cessna has a oil temp redline of 240. And it uses 50 viscosity oil, not 5 viscosity.

What is the factory OCI on these engines with the failures?

If oil temp is an issue, it seems counter productive to use a 50w.

 

[Cujet]

What is the factory OCI on these engines with the failures?

If oil temp is an issue, it seems counter productive to use a 50w.

In general, 100 hours.

Thrown rods say otherwise.

I use 15W-50 which does wonderfully in my Subaru powered 5500W generator, Kawasaki water pump and other hard working engines. The pressure washer and lawn mowers and tractors generally get Rotella T6 5W-40.

 

[dlundblad]

In general, 100 hours.

Thrown rods say otherwise.

I use 15W-50 which does wonderfully in my Subaru powered 5500W generator, Kawasaki water pump and other hard working engines. The pressure washer and lawn mowers and tractors generally get Rotella T6 5W-40.

I’m not saying the thrown rods didn’t happen. I just asked for the additional info. Was the oci followed as well as the oil being topped off? Something just doesn’t seem to add up. Millions of air cooled OPE engines do fine on cheap conventional 10w30.

Have you checked your oil temp after say 2 hrs of runtime vs 8?

 

[Astro_Guy]

I think Mark used conventional 5W-30 and 10W-30. I suggested otherwise...

It's becoming more than obvious that a 5w-30 is going to be marginal in a heavily loaded engine running above 90 F. I doubt that it matters much if it is conventional or synthetic, but the latter might go a little longer before a catastrophic failure.

Personally I am moving most of my OPE to 15w-40 RT6 which should cover all my bases up here in PA. The generators have been on 5w-40 RT6 for the last three years. The snow blower will continue to get synthetic 5w-30 for obvious reasons.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Many engines sit around for years and get a few hours of usage. My Eu2000 is 15 years old and starts/runs perfectly. It doesn't have the runtime of my 5000-8000w generators, but it has run a week straight often enough without anything but fuel and a little top off oil so almost a double interval. Obviously, no cheap or weak oil, and has a magnetic dipstick upgrade.

I can attest to common and numerous generator and pump failures after Hurricane Michael. Most were smart enough to top off the oil when refilling the fuel. Didn't see too many run out of oil. Problem was, after several days of 24/7 full load usage, engines were seizing. The oil maybe was pathetic along with the engines overheating from the hot stagnate air and carbon mudding the engine. Some engines didn't have a real break-in until the full boogie emergency. I don't use generic automotive oil in my equipment for this reason. Notice a commonality among failed engines.... generic or cheap conventional automotive motor oil.

All my small engines run full synthetic, full z/p, and >3.5 HTHS, regardless of the grade. And, this is what I recommend. Never had a failure with it and nor did those around here that followed my lead. The conventional and blend 15w40's are pretty stout and I wouldn't fear running them. I am pretty sure in a pinch, those 40 grade marine oils could be considered too.

During an emergency, you might not get to maintain the equipment. So, some oil changes were 2-3 weeks after running 24/7. This wasn't a problem with a stout 40 grade HDEO.

Kohler uses that 10w-50 for 300hr intervals on select engines. I've gotten pretty close to double that without worry on too many engines. I have that much faith in Delvac, Rotella, Delo, RedLine, and RoyalPurple HPS and equivalents. My dipstick and drain plug magnets didn't show anything worth worrying about. After power returned here, my generators were moved to neighbors, friends, colleagues that still didn't have power. Pretty sure my ol' Craftsman 7500w hit 700hrs in 5 weeks before a tuneup. Just couldn't kill it powering houses and anyone with an extension cord. It was not uncommon for 1 generator to have cords going into 3 houses.

Long life spark plugs helped too! Good fuel too but once you run out of the 5-gallon containers of ethanol free offroad marine stabilized fuel from the shed, you had no choice but to use whatever bulk generic E10 and were lucky if you still had any stabil left.

You run what you got and for as long as you needed to!

 

[z71bill]

IIRC the Honda EU2200 requires at most 14 ounces of oil - I will guess more like 12 or 13 on a typical oil change.

If I had oil on hand (I have 50+ quarts in my garage) I would change it more often than the manufacturer requires.

I just don't see the point - I just don't understand - I just think it is crazy - to run right up to the max run time - whatever the owners manual calls for 25, 50, 100 -

The owners manual OCI is the bare minimum maintenance required.

IMHO it is just plan dumb as hell when running 24/7 because of a power outage to go way over - if the company that built is says change it every 50 hours why not change it at 36 hours? The extra cost is insignificant.


Can someone explain the logic of going over?

Is it to save $?
Just too hard to drain and fill?
Don't want to be without power for 10 minutes while you change the oil?
Think you know more than the people that designed and built the unit?
You think it doesn't matter because you ran it for 7 straight days with no oil changes and nothing broke?

Come on help an OCD oil changer understand - maybe I have been doing it wrong and wasting pennies on new oil and spending minutes of extra time changing it -

 

[Greasymechtech]

Some here have never lived thru a hardship. I can only hope that someone above experiences their life ruined by a hurricane. They'll get a wake up call concerning survival.

The OP didn't have a shortage of fluids. Lucky for him. Some did after a major event! His intervals were a little excessive with the selected genset and oil.

After a cat-5 hurricane, there was no oil to do a drain/refill. All stores closed. No internet or phone service. There was only what you had in your shed/garage. And, not all have mental disease with 150 quarts of clearance oil hoarding. 100 miles 1-way to get bare supplies to exist. Everything was stretched.

Even that electric car company software patched and pushed their vehicles in this area for a longer range which can't be too good for those fancy batteries.

Surviving isn't dumb. Don't worry. Some live in a bubble until their roof is ripped off and tossed down the street.

Bare minimum doesn't count when lifestyle goes MadMax. All gets thrown out the window to survive.

Some off us do understand more than those that designed and built the equipment.

Yes, running a genset or waterpump nonstop did matter. The meds in the refrigerator didn't go bad, and nor did the food. And, the water level in the living room was kept below the ankles when it could've easily filled up with alligators and sharks.

An emergency situation has NOTHING to do with normal clueless sheeple day by day existence.

 

[nomas]

I have been known to plug in a box fan and blow air over the generator to help cool it . Less than 100 watts and it had to help .

 

[z71bill]

Some here have never lived thru a hardship. I can only hope that someone above experiences their life ruined by a hurricane. They'll get a wake up call concerning survival.

The OP didn't have a shortage of fluids. Lucky for him. Some did after a major event! His intervals were a little excessive with the selected genset and oil.

After a cat-5 hurricane, there was no oil to do a drain/refill. All stores closed. No internet or phone service. There was only what you had in your shed/garage. And, not all have mental disease with 150 quarts of clearance oil hoarding. 100 miles 1-way to get bare supplies to exist. Everything was stretched.

Even that electric car company software patched and pushed their vehicles in this area for a longer range which can't be too good for those fancy batteries.

Surviving isn't dumb. Don't worry. Some live in a bubble until their roof is ripped off and tossed down the street.

Bare minimum doesn't count when lifestyle goes MadMax. All gets thrown out the window to survive.

Some off us do understand more than those that designed and built the equipment.

Yes, running a genset or waterpump nonstop did matter. The meds in the refrigerator didn't go bad, and nor did the food. And, the water level in the living room was kept below the ankles when it could've easily filled up with alligators and sharks.

An emergency situation has NOTHING to do with normal clueless sheeple day by day existence.

Is this directed at me?

Anyone that owns a generator because they live in a place where power can go out that is not prepared enough to have at least a 5 quart jug of oil on had deserves to face hardship.

At 12 ounces per fill that 5 quart jug would give you one fill and 12 oil changes -

The best way to survive hardship is to plan for it - it is not like a hurricane just shows up one day without warning -

What good does it do to have a generator but not the required items to run it properly?

So you get 3 days worth or run time and then it breaks down. Nice plan.

I think what you mean is some people think they know more about the equipment than the folks that designed and built it - but if that means you think going 2x, 3x or longer between oil changes than the manufacturer you are not one of them.

Sure -I will give you the - if you are a fool and don't prepare for things properly - running with what you have and risking a major breakdown is better than not running what you have - but unless you are an idiot there are better options to take.

 

[tnt_motorsports]

Everyone makes choices. Some stretch OPE oil changes, some change filters every other OCI, some have car payments in excess of $1,000. We all make choices and for everyone that agrees with my choice there are probably many more who don’t.

As I say at work to my team “is this issue worth dying on the hill for?” IMO no. If you can sleep at night then let it ride.

Just my $0.02

 

[Texcl2]

Buying essential supplies cheap and stacking them deep is not a mental disease. It’s foresight. I think it’s nuts not to be prepared and frankly oil is a tangible asset that’s a pretty good investment in our current economy. Waiting till something happens and panic buying is a whole different creature. It’s what happens when you have no foresight.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Having foresight is great. Have the garage flattened and the shed sent 100 yards down the road into the neighbors yard didn't help the 'foresight' all that much when that is where the fluids/filters are kept. Local police department.... flattened. Local autopart store.... flattened.
Foresight is great until a cat-5 or tornado sends your supply a 1/4 mile away.

 

[NBNW]

You should have zero issues with the T4

15w-40 T6 would be even more prudent with extreme high seasonal ambient temperatures you are receiving !

 

[NBNW]

i'm not telling you to run 15W-40 oil. i could care less what you use. *****

Oil is cheap , change your seasonal oil accordingly . I run premium synthetic @ 10w-40 all summer & fall . Winter it gets 5w-30 .

 

[NBNW]

I’m not saying the thrown rods didn’t happen. I just asked for the additional info. Was the oci followed as well as the oil being topped off? Something just doesn’t seem to add up. Millions of air cooled OPE engines do fine on cheap conventional 10w30.

Have you checked your oil temp after say 2 hrs of runtime vs 8?

10w-30 is more than sufficient , even straight mineral oil . However for longer running times & intervals syn 10-40 would be even better . I have seen in high ambient temp areas 20w-40 or 20w-50 utilized efficiently within Premium Synthetic oil use .

 

[Sam_Julier]

Having foresight is great. Have the garage flattened and the shed sent 100 yards down the road into the neighbors yard didn't help the 'foresight' all that much when that is where the fluids/filters are kept. Local police department.... flattened. Local autopart store.... flattened.
Foresight is great until a cat-5 or tornado sends your supply a 1/4 mile away.

I can’t imagine what you lived through.

From the pictures it makes sense that you lost your oil stash.

Many of the comments are unfortunate.

 

[rumcapital23]

Many engines sit around for years and get a few hours of usage. My Eu2000 is 15 years old and starts/runs perfectly. It doesn't have the runtime of my 5000-8000w generators, but it has run a week straight often enough without anything but fuel and a little top off oil so almost a double interval. Obviously, no cheap or weak oil, and has a magnetic dipstick upgrade.

I can attest to common and numerous generator and pump failures after Hurricane Michael. Most were smart enough to top off the oil when refilling the fuel. Didn't see too many run out of oil. Problem was, after several days of 24/7 full load usage, engines were seizing. The oil maybe was pathetic along with the engines overheating from the hot stagnate air and carbon mudding the engine. Some engines didn't have a real break-in until the full boogie emergency. I don't use generic automotive oil in my equipment for this reason. Notice a commonality among failed engines.... generic or cheap conventional automotive motor oil.

All my small engines run full synthetic, full z/p, and >3.5 HTHS, regardless of the grade. And, this is what I recommend. Never had a failure with it and nor did those around here that followed my lead. The conventional and blend 15w40's are pretty stout and I wouldn't fear running them. I am pretty sure in a pinch, those 40 grade marine oils could be considered too.

During an emergency, you might not get to maintain the equipment. So, some oil changes were 2-3 weeks after running 24/7. This wasn't a problem with a stout 40 grade HDEO.

Kohler uses that 10w-50 for 300hr intervals on select engines. I've gotten pretty close to double that without worry on too many engines. I have that much faith in Delvac, Rotella, Delo, RedLine, and RoyalPurple HPS and equivalents. My dipstick and drain plug magnets didn't show anything worth worrying about. After power returned here, my generators were moved to neighbors, friends, colleagues that still didn't have power. Pretty sure my ol' Craftsman 7500w hit 700hrs in 5 weeks before a tuneup. Just couldn't kill it powering houses and anyone with an extension cord. It was not uncommon for 1 generator to have cords going into 3 houses.

Long life spark plugs helped too! Good fuel too but once you run out of the 5-gallon containers of ethanol free offroad marine stabilized fuel from the shed, you had no choice but to use whatever bulk generic E10 and were lucky if you still had any stabil left.

You run what you got and for as long as you needed to!

Many engines sit around for years and get a few hours of usage. My Eu2000 is 15 years old and starts/runs perfectly. It doesn't have the runtime of my 5000-8000w generators, but it has run a week straight often enough without anything but fuel and a little top off oil so almost a double interval. Obviously, no cheap or weak oil, and has a magnetic dipstick upgrade.

I can attest to common and numerous generator and pump failures after Hurricane Michael. Most were smart enough to top off the oil when refilling the fuel. Didn't see too many run out of oil. Problem was, after several days of 24/7 full load usage, engines were seizing. The oil maybe was pathetic along with the engines overheating from the hot stagnate air and carbon mudding the engine. Some engines didn't have a real break-in until the full boogie emergency. I don't use generic automotive oil in my equipment for this reason. Notice a commonality among failed engines.... generic or cheap conventional automotive motor oil.

All my small engines run full synthetic, full z/p, and >3.5 HTHS, regardless of the grade. And, this is what I recommend. Never had a failure with it and nor did those around here that followed my lead. The conventional and blend 15w40's are pretty stout and I wouldn't fear running them. I am pretty sure in a pinch, those 40 grade marine oils could be considered too.

During an emergency, you might not get to maintain the equipment. So, some oil changes were 2-3 weeks after running 24/7. This wasn't a problem with a stout 40 grade HDEO.

Kohler uses that 10w-50 for 300hr intervals on select engines. I've gotten pretty close to double that without worry on too many engines. I have that much faith in Delvac, Rotella, Delo, RedLine, and RoyalPurple HPS and equivalents. My dipstick and drain plug magnets didn't show anything worth worrying about. After power returned here, my generators were moved to neighbors, friends, colleagues that still didn't have power. Pretty sure my ol' Craftsman 7500w hit 700hrs in 5 weeks before a tuneup. Just couldn't kill it powering houses and anyone with an extension cord. It was not uncommon for 1 generator to have cords going into 3 houses.

Long life spark plugs helped too! Good fuel too but once you run out of the 5-gallon containers of ethanol free offroad marine stabilized fuel from the shed, you had no choice but to use whatever bulk generic E10 and were lucky if you still had any stabil left.

You run what you got and for as long as you needed to!

i ran out of my good fuel quick and started using whatever gas i could find. i avoided long lines at fuel stations by getting up early. i was blessed to find 50+ gallons every 3 days. thank God our home is reinforced concrete as are the majority of the homes on the island. that said weare considering a diesel standby in the near future.

Many engines sit around for years and get a few hours of usage. My Eu2000 is 15 years old and starts/runs perfectly. It doesn't have the runtime of my 5000-8000w generators, but it has run a week straight often enough without anything but fuel and a little top off oil so almost a double interval. Obviously, no cheap or weak oil, and has a magnetic dipstick upgrade.

I can attest to common and numerous generator and pump failures after Hurricane Michael. Most were smart enough to top off the oil when refilling the fuel. Didn't see too many run out of oil. Problem was, after several days of 24/7 full load usage, engines were seizing. The oil maybe was pathetic along with the engines overheating from the hot stagnate air and carbon mudding the engine. Some engines didn't have a real break-in until the full boogie emergency. I don't use generic automotive oil in my equipment for this reason. Notice a commonality among failed engines.... generic or cheap conventional automotive motor oil.

All my small engines run full synthetic, full z/p, and >3.5 HTHS, regardless of the grade. And, this is what I recommend. Never had a failure with it and nor did those around here that followed my lead. The conventional and blend 15w40's are pretty stout and I wouldn't fear running them. I am pretty sure in a pinch, those 40 grade marine oils could be considered too.

During an emergency, you might not get to maintain the equipment. So, some oil changes were 2-3 weeks after running 24/7. This wasn't a problem with a stout 40 grade HDEO.

Kohler uses that 10w-50 for 300hr intervals on select engines. I've gotten pretty close to double that without worry on too many engines. I have that much faith in Delvac, Rotella, Delo, RedLine, and RoyalPurple HPS and equivalents. My dipstick and drain plug magnets didn't show anything worth worrying about. After power returned here, my generators were moved to neighbors, friends, colleagues that still didn't have power. Pretty sure my ol' Craftsman 7500w hit 700hrs in 5 weeks before a tuneup. Just couldn't kill it powering houses and anyone with an extension cord. It was not uncommon for 1 generator to have cords going into 3 houses.

Long life spark plugs helped too! Good fuel too but once you run out of the 5-gallon containers of ethanol free offroad marine stabilized fuel from the shed, you had no choice but to use whatever bulk generic E10 and were lucky if you still had any stabil left.

You run what you got and for as long as you needed to!

My '01 BS powered Craftsman 5600w unit ran 11 days nonstop during Sandy 10 yrs ago. With 5-30w ST full synth. in it.
Afterwards did an oil change and it's still running like a champ doing a few multi day nonstop runs since then. Did not have to add oil to it, it did use some but not enough to get to the add mark during Sandy.
E0 fuel for storage, burns whatever I can get during an outage and drain and fill with stabilized E0 for storage along with an oil change.
I do have an extra set of gen brushes on hand just in case to be prepared as not sure on how long they last.
No hour meter but it has a load display and maintenance reminders on the display for the non-gearhead.

glad your gennie held up.

 

[z71bill]

Wind chill and heat index are great to help people with no science make bad decisions..
Suppose my gen engine is 5 years old.. but its been really sad and depressed lately. Then what oil would you use

Jack Daniels