The car is a '95 Toyota Tercel with 281K miles and a manual transmission. Depending on how I engage the first gear the powertrain will make a lot of vibration and noise as I continuing shifting to higher gears. It also makes the same loud noise when the car is using engine brake as it slows down. I am not sure if this is due to worn out synchro or the slipping clutch. The clutch was replaced 65K miles ago by the previous owner. The engine burns aout a quart of oil every 1000 miles but still gives 50 MPG.
Noisy powertrain on a stick shift car
- Thread starter sifan
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Exhaust noise?
If it is a mechanical whining noise, it could be a trans input bearing, or another related part.
How is your gear oil? Is the level OK? Is it thick enough?
If it is a mechanical whining noise, it could be a trans input bearing, or another related part.
How is your gear oil? Is the level OK? Is it thick enough?
It is mechanical whining noise that is acompanied with powertrain vibration. I have no problems shifting into gears, and each gear stays. I have the gear oil replaced about 3k miles ago. The clutch cylinder was also replaced along with the clutch about 65k miles ago by the previous owner.
This occurs as engine brake is used as the car slows down for down shift. If I press the clutch pedal to release the clutch, the noise and vibration will go away immediately.
This symtom also occurs as car approaches 65 MPH. I wonder if the clutch is trying to grip with the torque while slipping that causes the noise and vibration.
I called a car repair shop, and the owner was guessing the engine mounts were at fault. He said that he needed to test drive the car. What do you think?
This occurs as engine brake is used as the car slows down for down shift. If I press the clutch pedal to release the clutch, the noise and vibration will go away immediately.
This symtom also occurs as car approaches 65 MPH. I wonder if the clutch is trying to grip with the torque while slipping that causes the noise and vibration.
I called a car repair shop, and the owner was guessing the engine mounts were at fault. He said that he needed to test drive the car. What do you think?
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On a car with 281k miles on the original drive train, some noise and vibration is to be expected. I would have the car checked if it bothers you. It may also be a bad CV joint.
With the clutch in and car in gear the trans is still turning, just not mated to the engine. If the clutch has to be engaged for the vibration to occur then the engine mounts sound believable to me.
If you rev in neutral while stopped, can you feel any excess vibration?
If you rev in neutral while stopped, can you feel any excess vibration?
Engine mounts can definitely cause bad noises during acceleration and deceleration. What happens is that the rubber insert gets torn apart, and the metal parts of the motor mounts rub against each other. Other times the old motor mounts let the engine twist so much that things attached to the engine crash into the body. I once had to replace a starter motor because of that.
A broken engine mount caused all sorts of vibrations and funky noises on the wife's car until I finally went out and fixed it one day. Every time she'd put the car in drive, it would make a horrible clunk and sound like the engine was about ready to fall out of the car; ended up figuring out that shifting gears was causing it to rotate just enough to slam itself into the hard metal part of the mount (rubber had completely fallen out), and of course, since the other half of the mount was completely intact, transfer all the vibration into the car. When it idled, it felt like a poorly-tuned Harley. We both thought the transmission was going out until we figured out what it was.
With gear in neutral and engine idling I can hear very low rumbling noise from the muffler. I haven't tried to rev the engine during idle. I think some of the loud noise must be contributed by the exhaust. I had the catalytic converter replaced to get rid of CEL right after the purchase. The shop put a U joint to connect the two exhaust pipes. The U joint reduces the clearance such that it often scratches the speed bumps. I am not sure if this will contribute to exhaust leak. Is it possible to have the pipes wielded without the use of a U joint?
I will bring the car to the shop next Monday to have it checked out. I bought the car 3k miles ago, and only experience this problem recently. I just want to make sure that the problem won't lead to leaving me strainded on the road side.
I will bring the car to the shop next Monday to have it checked out. I bought the car 3k miles ago, and only experience this problem recently. I just want to make sure that the problem won't lead to leaving me strainded on the road side.
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Input shaft bearing is the most likely from your description, and those high miles.
Brought the car back to the shop that replaced the catalytic converter earlier. The owner claimed a wrong part was installed that eventually caused the rattling exhaust pipe over the time. He fixed it free of charge. Now the vibration and noise are gone. It drives beautifully just like the way I initially bought.
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