Noise when turning; accelerating in low gear

[ltslimjim]

Guys, my Civic is making noise that I think could be either exhaust piece being loose, perhaps clutch?, or backing/skid plate behind the front discs. It almost feels like CV joints, but it's not quite the same and some bad CVs were replaced over a year ago.

It only happens in gear, while making a turn and accelerating through the turn at low RPM/low gear(just happen to be in 2nd mainly when this occurs)/light to normal throttle.

Not sure what a throwout/release bearing going bad would feel like. This is my first manual/stick. It is hard to shift into first in this car at times, even at a stop. I had always associated this(shifting) to worn synchros, but I believe the clutch needs replacement soon anyway.

Basically, the situation originally outlined generates a 'put, put, put' noise(lower/sub end) that isn't present at idle with the engine nor from simply revving the engine while in neutral; only while driving the car in gear and turning(though the sound continues once out of the turn for a few seconds or disappears if you go to WOT). Someone suggested rod knock, but I don't think so.

Tried moving the exhaust heat shields, but they "seem" secure, but haven't checked the piping under the car for play movement. Lastly, I had visions of an engine mount being worn, since it appears to be making the sound relative to higher torque.

Thoughts? Thanks.

 

[ltslimjim]

Oh, I figured I'd add that this has been happening for about a month now. So a spun bearing, I thought, would show some sort of ugliness at idle or in neutral while revving, nothing. Performance is great.

 

[oggb]

Things this could be:

Bad CV joint
Bad wheel bearing
Bent/worn suspension component

Things this probably isn't:
clutch
engine
transmission

Jack it up and check each front wheel for play at 3 and 9, as well as 12 and 6.

 

[ltslimjim]

Thanks for the leads. Will check things out to spec, or have a mechanic diagnose. Would the permanent ball joint be popping or could it be the front end bushings? Suspension component was my first though, perhaps causing the CV to work too hard cornering? Premature CV failure would stink. Any of what you mentioned is much better than engine/transmission/clutch. If it turns out to be something other than engine, I'm going to let this last shop know about it.

I do think my throw out bearing is starting to go. Try to race this thing and it has a 2-3 second delay during WOT while shifting into second before it gets in gear and continues to make power. Basically, over-revving as though in neutral. Another reason to go easy on the car until I get the rest of the maintenance done.

 

[ltslimjim]

UPDATE:

It seems to happen even while not turning now, though perhaps a turn initially reveals the sound. It was present today in a straight away without a turn immediately prior. I'm hoping that doesn't mean the engine, still haven't had time to check wheel bearing or suspension.

Also, making matters 'worse' is that my front tires feel out of balance. Giving the 'hop'-like effect while driving, especially between 40-50 or so. I have been needing to bite the bullet and get new tires, but with concerns over the engine or suspension/wheel bearing it really makes me want to solve those issues before replacing the tires now.

The front have 20k on them and are the Prime Wells sold by Tires Plus. Lame tire, it was on the rear previously but after my tie rods were replaced by a shop the other day they rotated them to the front and put the older tires on the back(Viva 2, Goodyear...actually liked them much better and will rotate them again to see if bouncing stops)...

It feels like someone is tapping underneath the vehicle either from the wheel/somehow along the axle as it feels like its something moving at a rate corresponding(though not the same) to the engine RPM, so it feels like it sound still be at the CVs, or perhaps the relatively new CVs are stressed by a worn wheel bearing? Happens upon acceleration and goes away under coasting more so, the noise.

 

[Trav]

Some cars use intermediate shafts with a support bearing, dampers and other parts, not just two CV axles.
I don't know what your car has or not but you can look into these things in a service manual, they can make noise.

 

[ltslimjim]

Thanks a ton Trav. Those specifics are what I need to look up.

 

[ltslimjim]

Alright, here's one for you:

So, I'm going over the work that a shop did last Friday regarding my tie rods/boots(bellows). A little miffed that they didn't zip tie/clip the end of the boot nearest the tire, but at least the inner most side is tight. Will be going back there soon, since some grease is already escaping from the smaller/tapered side sliding from steering.

So, while I'm fooling around with this I notice something else, wouldn't you know, that upon inspection of the outer-most boots for the transaxle/driveshaft(replaced last year) it turns out they are damaged already!

The passenger side boot; next to the hub/knuckle assembly at the wheel, was collapsed onto itself(though I didn't remove the tire and check for tear, I'm sure it's either defective or has a tear).

Noticing this led me to look at the driver side location. It was a mess!!!; this boot has a 1/2 inch GASH in the middle of the boot and grease coming out. It's on it's way to being dry.

WHAT?! Both, either defective or STRANGE coincidence that each of the outer most boots would have failure a year after being replaced. The master tech I used supposedly 'only' uses original OEM parts/equipment. Perhaps going another year on bad tie rods compromised them?

So, is the noise alone enough to say that my CVs are bad again(before it was the inner boots along the transaxle that were rotted out); or could it just be onset of pre-mature wear because the outer most boots(at least the passenger side) may no longer have any grase and is dry?

As 'timing' would have it, the master tech that I used has a 1 year/12,000 mile warranty on his work, and this is now 15,000 miles/15 months later, but perhaps he can get parts replaced and only charge me labor? Gotta go in next week and get it done.

Oh well, I do believe I've found my problem.

 

[Trav]

Even the cheapest boots should go a few years.
When he put the boot on he possibly didn't measure the axle length before clamping the boot shut.
This involves filling the joint with the correct amount of grease, compressing the joint so the axle length is to spec then burping the air from the boot before installing the clamp,
recheck the length before tightening the clamp.

The correct length is usually somewhere in the middle of the joints travel.
If this isn't done the boot can get damaged quickly, some joints are more forgiving then others depending on type and amount of travel in the joint.

 

[ltslimjim]

Thanks for the advice in this area Trav. I'm going by my mechanic tomorrow and see what we can work out. I hope they are willing to budge some. It's hard to justify the same $450-$500 repair done a little over a year ago on something that should last 3-5 years from what I gather.