This thread reminded me that I haven't pulled the battery from my riding mower, yet.
NOCO GENIUS 10 burning out batteries?
- Thread starter lokijoker
- Start date
I was disappointed with my NOCO 10. It chronically undercharged, even though it was very well built. CTEK is not assembled as well but has a more intelligent charging profile. I think a NOCO 5 would be the sweet spot for the way they operate. To hear of one that is overcharging - I’m certain yours is faulty - their profile is very conservative.
I own 2 NOCO jump packs and bought them specifically because the build quality in the NOCO 10 was so good, even if it missed the mark in performance. The jump packs have been great.
I own 2 NOCO jump packs and bought them specifically because the build quality in the NOCO 10 was so good, even if it missed the mark in performance. The jump packs have been great.
I use a Noco 10 now as well at home. I do tend to agree with @meep above that it just doesn't charge as well for a maintenance charger like the 5. Mine has never overcharged on a handful of vehicles I switch it around on here. It has never not charged it well enough either though. It is good for using as a 12V source...
I'll not a battery scientist like some of you seem to be but I've had to toss more CTEK's in the trash than Noco's. I run about a dozen battery maintainers constantly throughout the year and some Battery Minders too. Not sure why people hate Noco so much. Heck last weekend my Genius g7200 revived two $600/ea AGM 4D batteries that I thought were toast. Does anyone know who the OEM is for the BMW branded battery maintainer?
Never had a problem using a Genius 10 for maintenance charging. FWIW, a friend has a Chinesium 1.5A maintainer for his Harley. His battery is fine.
They told me tough crap when their charger/maintainer didn't do the job and ruined 2 batteries when they froze. Almost $400 down the turdlet.
Found out the don't charge if below -4* "for safety".
It's below zero for sometimes weeks.
I'm a little late to the game on this one. I just bought a new-to-me 2021 Lincoln Corsair. Dealer sold it to me with a bad battery (shame on me for not checking). Not bad enough battery that the car wouldn't start but the auto/stop/start wouldn't work. Although that isn't a bad thing! So I bought a new AGM battery and had it installed, out the door for $310. Yow, batteries have gotten expensive.
So I knew that the shop didn't do a charge on the battery, it may have been sitting idle for a while and thought I'd use my NOCO GENIUS10. I've used it on other non-AGM batteries and it has worked well. But reading this post, I see people complained about possible over charging and with a $310 battery install, I don't want an over charge.
Hooked it up, chose AGM 12 V and waited to see the red start showing and then I walked away. Decided to hook up a meter to the battery and see how it was going. Came back in a bit, the green light is pulsing and my meter shows 13.5. In a little bit it was 13.7. In a little bit it was 13.7 with a pop of 13.8. Ok, enough for me and I unhooked it.
We didn't put many miles on the car with the new battery and it may have been a battery that needs a full, long charge. Can I trust my NOCO GENIUS10 for a long charge? Hm?
I've turned off as much idiot electronics on the car as I possibly can. It is annoying that headlights come on and door handle lights when I open the door and yes, the sun is shining. What a waste. I can say this about my new purchase, I think my 2016 Volvo V60 gave me more options to set things the way I want them such as turning off the auto door locking. The Corsair doesn't allow you to do it. GOes back to my Jaguar days of problems with actuators. I don't need extra clicking of actuators. I live and drive in the country, nobody is jumping in my car but give me that option.
Over on the Lincoln Forum I asked if there is a way to turn off those auto locks at 12 MPH. I got one response and the guy said, "life isn't like the movies, if you fall out of a moving car, you die. Leave that auto lock on as a safety feature." Hm...I started thinking of my racing days. I started thinking, I have a seatbelt on. I started thinking I would need to actively open the door handle, remove my seatbelt and then fall out. That is a lot of work to fall out of the car. Answer was probably not a guy that ever crawled under a big Caddie, a Jaguar or other big beasts, being held up by jack stands or all by his lonesome, hoisting out a replacement engine while the car is in his garage.
So is 13.7 - ish too much for the first time on the charger??
So I knew that the shop didn't do a charge on the battery, it may have been sitting idle for a while and thought I'd use my NOCO GENIUS10. I've used it on other non-AGM batteries and it has worked well. But reading this post, I see people complained about possible over charging and with a $310 battery install, I don't want an over charge.
Hooked it up, chose AGM 12 V and waited to see the red start showing and then I walked away. Decided to hook up a meter to the battery and see how it was going. Came back in a bit, the green light is pulsing and my meter shows 13.5. In a little bit it was 13.7. In a little bit it was 13.7 with a pop of 13.8. Ok, enough for me and I unhooked it.
We didn't put many miles on the car with the new battery and it may have been a battery that needs a full, long charge. Can I trust my NOCO GENIUS10 for a long charge? Hm?
I've turned off as much idiot electronics on the car as I possibly can. It is annoying that headlights come on and door handle lights when I open the door and yes, the sun is shining. What a waste. I can say this about my new purchase, I think my 2016 Volvo V60 gave me more options to set things the way I want them such as turning off the auto door locking. The Corsair doesn't allow you to do it. GOes back to my Jaguar days of problems with actuators. I don't need extra clicking of actuators. I live and drive in the country, nobody is jumping in my car but give me that option.
Over on the Lincoln Forum I asked if there is a way to turn off those auto locks at 12 MPH. I got one response and the guy said, "life isn't like the movies, if you fall out of a moving car, you die. Leave that auto lock on as a safety feature." Hm...I started thinking of my racing days. I started thinking, I have a seatbelt on. I started thinking I would need to actively open the door handle, remove my seatbelt and then fall out. That is a lot of work to fall out of the car. Answer was probably not a guy that ever crawled under a big Caddie, a Jaguar or other big beasts, being held up by jack stands or all by his lonesome, hoisting out a replacement engine while the car is in his garage.
So is 13.7 - ish too much for the first time on the charger??
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No, it holds 14v when the car is running. Just let it do it's thing and make sure you have it on the agm setting. The charger will slowly back off after a while. It should settle down to around 12.9 or so. Might take 12hrs though.
Ok thanks. I'll need to hook it up again on a day when it will sit for 12 hours. Maybe overnight. I do want it to have a full charge, I like to keep my batteries happy.
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12.83 is what my side by side sits at. Even hooked it up to the Kubota tractor for funsies and it landed at 12.83v too.
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Oh yeah, those AGM's are a totally different animal than the old, lead acid batteries.
My bike has one the PO installed. Works well, but I'm not used to NOT having to "top up" the battery when it's been removed during storage.
In 2 years of ownership, I've never had to connect a charger to it once....so strange, but it works.
Your recovery mode is off. “R/M” You need to get that turned back on and it’ll fire back up to where it left off. I have that charger and just left it hooked up when I was gone for a few weeks. I hade some contractors doing work and the killed my main breaker. When I came back the charger was still doing its job. Although very slow, it works well.
To switch in and off of recovery mode,
“Press and hold the battery type and charge button while pushing the voltage selection button twice”
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Will try thanks!
Should work. It’s a fine charger if you can leave it on overnight and aren’t expecting anything fast. I prefer my Pulsetechs when needing a battery topped off in a few hrs as opposed the pro logix that’ll take 8hrs. The algorithm though is top notch and so is the temp compensation.
Oddly - well a couple things. First idiot me assumed recovery mode meant battery recovery.........2nd thing, it says default is R/M ON. Mine came with it off. No worries, switched on now. Thanks again!
RECOVERY MODE
The charger is equipped with the ability to react to the interruption of power (power outage) in two different ways.
The factory default setting is Recovery Mode ON, under which the charger will continue to monitor the battery during a
power outage situation and resume charging under the existing charging parameters upon the resumption of AC power.
This feature is best utilized during periods when occasional monitoring of the charger is not possible, such as when you
are on vacation.
You can switch to Recovery Mode OFF, which turns the charger OFF if there is any interruption of AC input power. So,
if the power goes out, the charger will stop charging and enter Standby Mode, with default settings, upon the resumption
of AC power.
To switch Recovery Mode from OFF to ON or ON to OFF, press and hold both the Battery Type and CHARGE button
while push the Voltage Selection button twice. Recovery Mode status is indicated by the RM LED – when the RM LED is
lit, Recovery is ON.
When the charger is in Recovery Mode ON and a power interruption occurs, all charger status LEDs will turn off, except
the RM LED, which will blink. After 36 hours, to conserve the charge on the connected battery, all LEDs will turn off.
Upon resumption of power, the charger will resume normal operation in the existing settings and status indicators will
again be active.
Your welcome. All the sudden, the charger you wished had another feature, has that feature. It’s a good day.
Cause to read the manual!
I've had a CTEK 4.3 fail and a Battery Tender Plus (Deltran) fail. With the CTEK I was around and caught the failure so it didn't hurt the battery. The Battery Tender failure I was away for a long time and it cost me a battery. I'm sure it was the tender because I put it on the new battery and it failed. I was around so quickly disconnected it.
Now using NOCO Genius 2 on two different cars. I'm waiting to see if and when they cause a problem. I've taken the tack that low amps mean slow top off but less chance of cooking the battery.
Now using NOCO Genius 2 on two different cars. I'm waiting to see if and when they cause a problem. I've taken the tack that low amps mean slow top off but less chance of cooking the battery.
f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2025
So your failures were the maintainer still in the charging mode? My Ctek failed that way...it was a 3.3 amp oem Ferrari branded one, and it would not go into float, unless I unplugged it and plugged it back in. I retired it and use Battery Minders now.
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