Yeah, you kinda left out one little bit of information.
No More Oil additives for me....
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My442,
Are you sure it isn't the Diesel oil you put in it? Maybe the 15W40 was too thick? Just guessing. Since you left out what additive I checked your posts but couldn't determine the additive you used.
Please share with us. And would you be willing to do an oil analysis to see if there isn't something else going on?
Sorry to hear about your engine. That really sucks. But please share so we can learn from your experience.
Are you sure it isn't the Diesel oil you put in it? Maybe the 15W40 was too thick? Just guessing. Since you left out what additive I checked your posts but couldn't determine the additive you used.
Please share with us. And would you be willing to do an oil analysis to see if there isn't something else going on?
Sorry to hear about your engine. That really sucks. But please share so we can learn from your experience.
Found his additive (I think):
Valvoline Synpower Oil treatment
Valvoline Synpower Oil treatment
DELO 400 15w-40 and a bottle of SynPower. Added about 6 oz. of LC20.
This mixture has caused me to have to:
Pull the engine, which requires removing the tranmission, driveshaft, radiator, all accessories, etc.
At least 30 hours of my labor, plus:
Main/rod/cam Bearings, gaskets, oil pump, and maybe rings.
A costly mistake and one I will not repeat.
BTW - the oil is like jelly.
This mixture has caused me to have to:
Pull the engine, which requires removing the tranmission, driveshaft, radiator, all accessories, etc.
At least 30 hours of my labor, plus:
Main/rod/cam Bearings, gaskets, oil pump, and maybe rings.
A costly mistake and one I will not repeat.
BTW - the oil is like jelly.
I'd hate to think what would of happened had you put 20w-50 in there!
This could not of been caused by the oil, in my mind anyway. I could understand you'd have some problems if you filled it with straight 60 weight, but not with a multigrade that's been run in everything from lawnmowers to Geos to pickup trucks and more.
This could not of been caused by the oil, in my mind anyway. I could understand you'd have some problems if you filled it with straight 60 weight, but not with a multigrade that's been run in everything from lawnmowers to Geos to pickup trucks and more.
I don't blame you for never using additives again. It would take a lot of convincing to get me to use additives after that.
However, I wonder what the heck happened. Unless the two additives had an unusual reaction, I don't understand how this would happen on a newly rebuilt motor. I could understand if it was old and the removal of sludge buildup all at once caused the blockage, but if it was rebuilt it should have been clean.
It looks like at 40oC that mix would be around 135cSt with 6.5 qts of oil. Thick, but nothing crazy.
Possibly an issue with Delo and SynPower Oil Treatment? How cold was it when you tried to start the car? And what weight oil does your car spec and what oil filter were you using as well?
I run Mobil1 EP 10w30 with 6oz of VSOT and 6oz of LC20 with a PureONE filter. When I drained this mix w/ 5000 miles on it, it was thin enough to splatter a bit when it hit the drain pan.
Definitely would be interesting to see what an oil analysis would say...
Possibly an issue with Delo and SynPower Oil Treatment? How cold was it when you tried to start the car? And what weight oil does your car spec and what oil filter were you using as well?
I run Mobil1 EP 10w30 with 6oz of VSOT and 6oz of LC20 with a PureONE filter. When I drained this mix w/ 5000 miles on it, it was thin enough to splatter a bit when it hit the drain pan.
Definitely would be interesting to see what an oil analysis would say...
How about coolant or a fuel reaction with the oil?
Delo 15-40, VSOT, and LC20 are proven, fine , products.
It's just that there is so much info that we don't know about the engine, and it's circumstances.
Delo 15-40, VSOT, and LC20 are proven, fine , products.
It's just that there is so much info that we don't know about the engine, and it's circumstances.
Jeez, and ENTIRE bottle of Synpower? 15 oz.?? On top of 15W40? I'm not familiar with LC20, but I assume that's thick, too? VSOT will barely flow at room temps, you have to warm it up, mix it with oil, and then add it. At the rate of 1-1.5 oz/qt MAX. With the Delo, I dunno if you even need to add VSOT, but if you do or if you don't, never an entire bottle.
I've always thought of VSOT as a boost to M1 to throw in a little Moly, not as an additive to reformulate the oil, as one far more knowledgeable poster than I once put it.
Good luck with it. That's a great car.
I've always thought of VSOT as a boost to M1 to throw in a little Moly, not as an additive to reformulate the oil, as one far more knowledgeable poster than I once put it.
Good luck with it. That's a great car.
can you say VII/additive fall out that is why screwing around with ANY ones additves is a no win deal.
Not that I have not given out additives and custom formulated oils But I know what I'm doing buying a snake oil and adding it without much info is a crap shoot.
Stick with a good SL oil or delo and be happy and forget about all the crap out there.
There is not much to be gained other than a few Thousand miles before a OCI, I make the stuff and do not worry about RX,LC etc not needed at ALL no mater who says so period end of story.
bruce
Not that I have not given out additives and custom formulated oils But I know what I'm doing buying a snake oil and adding it without much info is a crap shoot.
Stick with a good SL oil or delo and be happy and forget about all the crap out there.
There is not much to be gained other than a few Thousand miles before a OCI, I make the stuff and do not worry about RX,LC etc not needed at ALL no mater who says so period end of story.
bruce
If the oil pump relife piston stuck and it is a new part it was machined and finished wrong! If it was an old part that was re-used then the bore was worn and allowed the piston to stick. THe other culprit is varnish of sludge in the bore of high milage engine.
GM Performance manual tells you to shim the pump and change the spring to increase pressure from the stock pump. They also recomend 20W50 even with hydralic stock lifters. So it is not the viscosity of the oil at all.
GM Performance manual tells you to shim the pump and change the spring to increase pressure from the stock pump. They also recomend 20W50 even with hydralic stock lifters. So it is not the viscosity of the oil at all.
That is certainly one way to go-no oil additives whatsoever. With a good engine in a car or truck and using quality oil with adequate oil changes you could go a very long way with no problems. People certainly have gotten themselves in trouble using SOME oil additves.
I would guess that 99% of all the oil additives are pure junk. Some people have tested various oil supplements at this site and without a doubt some oil supplements are total rip-offs.
However, I don't think that ALL oil supplements are junk. Auto-RX worked for me. If you had an old car or truck with a gunked up engine and you were able to run that vehicle for quite a while longer using Auto-RX I figure the Auto-RX would be worth the price.
The list of stuff I am willing to use has gotten much smaller over the years, but it is not zero. There are still a few products I am willing to use.
I would guess that 99% of all the oil additives are pure junk. Some people have tested various oil supplements at this site and without a doubt some oil supplements are total rip-offs.
However, I don't think that ALL oil supplements are junk. Auto-RX worked for me. If you had an old car or truck with a gunked up engine and you were able to run that vehicle for quite a while longer using Auto-RX I figure the Auto-RX would be worth the price.
The list of stuff I am willing to use has gotten much smaller over the years, but it is not zero. There are still a few products I am willing to use.
I will never add anything to my oil again. My Olds 442 had "0" oil pressure on a cold start up the other day. After significant analysis, the prognosis is the oil pump pressure relief valve is stuck. When I cut the oil filter apart, there was a jelly like substance in it, clogging it. This is on an engine rebuilt and dyno'ed 2,000 miles ago.
I have to pull the engine to fix it.
So, beware of additives!
I have to pull the engine to fix it.
So, beware of additives!
VSOT is chemicaly like 95+% STP and the same viscosity. As LC20 not real familiar. Good Oil does not need additives. Heck even ask lucas if you should use their heavy duty oil stabilizer with there oil and they will say NOPE! I did and that was my answer. Just put in good oil next time.
ewetho, I think you need to dig a little deeper before throwing out statements like that. Especially if you're just reading MSDS's.
One could say Bob's Truck Stop 15W40 is 99% the same as Delo but it really doesn't tell the whole story. Many if not most oil additives have mega doses of zddp, a proven multifunction oil additive which is also found in plain motor oil in varying quantities. That's not a BAD thing. VSOT, additionally, has moly (which is also found in some oils). STP and some of the shadier additives have a bad rep due to their reputation for having lots of viscosity index improvers (VII's) in order to get that thick goo viscosity. These can breakdown and form deposits in some cases and that's where the reputation comes from.
For what it's worth, Lucas Oil Stabilizer is fairly additive free if I am not mistaken and basically petroleum brightstock (a very thick distillation by-product), and not thick due to VII's. As to how much extra protection it offers, that's hotly disputed on here.
One could say Bob's Truck Stop 15W40 is 99% the same as Delo but it really doesn't tell the whole story. Many if not most oil additives have mega doses of zddp, a proven multifunction oil additive which is also found in plain motor oil in varying quantities. That's not a BAD thing. VSOT, additionally, has moly (which is also found in some oils). STP and some of the shadier additives have a bad rep due to their reputation for having lots of viscosity index improvers (VII's) in order to get that thick goo viscosity. These can breakdown and form deposits in some cases and that's where the reputation comes from.
For what it's worth, Lucas Oil Stabilizer is fairly additive free if I am not mistaken and basically petroleum brightstock (a very thick distillation by-product), and not thick due to VII's. As to how much extra protection it offers, that's hotly disputed on here.
Why not replace the oil pump, pre-oil the motor and fire it up before you go through the laborous journey of pulling the motor, unless you know for sure that the internal guts are damaged. You are going to need to get that jelly out of the system. Auto-Rx will do that nicely. I have never seen an incompatability issue with ARX and any motor oil. I always cringe when I hear of people using multiple additives on top of the additive package that is already in the fully formulated oil. Good luck.
YES. Don't blame the oil nor the snake oil.
Ken
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