Nissan Pathfinder oil sludge issues

Sort of understatement The VQ was a permanent fixture on "10 best engines" lists and such for seemingly half a lifetime. Unless they somehow cheapened it our ruined it, the VQ is a legend.

I'd run a 0w-40 if you have a lot of cold starts. Something thicker if you don't.
VQ is a legend...but the GDI versions lost a step from the reliability of the port injection models. Outside of gov regulations to gain .5 MPG, I don't get why they would do it either. Our 2014 VK56 in our Armada has been rock solid, UOA indicate no issues of concern at 176K, it isn't the most fuel efficient vehicle in our fleet but it is a 4x4 V8 with a real transfer case, an actual 4LO and can tow twice its own weight, I didn't buy it to get 25 MPG.
 
The thicker oil will be better for the timing chains and or oil sludging? I am all for thicker oil, but I only have 138 miles on this vehicle and want to keep the warranty intact.
A warranty that requires you to place your engine’s long term health at risk is not worth preserving.

Use the good oil. Let the chips fall where they may. If they want to give you the run around, you won’t be spared because you used the “correct” (i.e. CAFE-mandate) oil.
 
Having owned a 2019 Pathfinder and being active on a few Nissan boards for years, I have seen dozens of reports of sludging on the GDI version of the VQ35. For what ever reason, this engine is not tolerant to 5k+ mile oil changes like the port injected VQ35DE was. Stick to 4k mile oil changes with your VQ35DD and you should be ok.
 
Having owned a 2019 Pathfinder and being active on a few Nissan boards for years, I have seen dozens of reports of sludging on the GDI version of the VQ35. For what ever reason, this engine is not tolerant to 5k+ mile oil changes like the port injected VQ35DE was. Stick to 4k mile oil changes with your VQ35DD and you should be ok.
I have been researching and reading a lot of threads from all the different forums on this GDI engine (and many other brands..Honda) and a lot of people are saying that it may be due to the smallish oil capacity. I will be doing 3,000 to 3,500 mile oil changes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JTK
Clearly the VQ35DD is prone to sludge due to blow by and a weak PCV system.

What is unclear is how far extra preventative maintenance gets you. If you change the PCV valve and hoses every, say, 15-30k, use ethanol free top tier gas, treat gas before every oil change, and do sub 5k oil changes with Valvoline Restore and Protect, what happens?
 
I've had my '19 QX60 for almost 6 years now and it had 45k km when I purchased, and it's always been no longer than 6500km or 6 months for the oil & filter using Pennzoil Platinum 0W20. No sludge, no codes, no problems at 144k km. I don't allow my wife's '21 Rogue with the 2.5L to exceed the same oil routine as the QX60.
 
Clearly the VQ35DD is prone to sludge due to blow by and a weak PCV system.

What is unclear is how far extra preventative maintenance gets you. If you change the PCV valve and hoses every, say, 15-30k, use ethanol free top tier gas, treat gas before every oil change, and do sub 5k oil changes with Valvoline Restore and Protect, what happens?
well you can certainly do better on the oil side in most instances.

In the DFW area, there's no reason to be using anything under 40 grade. If this were my Pathfinder and my DFW location, I'd be looking at Mobil 1 15w-50 as the cheaper option with HPL 20w-50 as the upgrade.

The Mobil 1 15w-50 has really juicy levels of phosphorus (ZDDP) at 1100-1200ppm. And with the lower calcium package in API SP it's a legit street-use oil.

But the HPL, even in basic PCMO form, crushes it in two key ways. First, the HPL has esters that really improve boundary lubrication and startup wear. There's no ester in the current Mobil 1 15w-50. Second, the HPL has a very healthy slug of moly in it-- 600+ ppm. This is super critical at startup wear and even further enhances boundary lubrication.


So even though the HPL is a 20w instead of a 15w like the Mobil 1, the HPL would absolutely crush it in terms of startup wear. Add to that the brute high HTHS of nearly 5.5 (!) and you have in the HPL a liquid armor for engine internals that still has superb startup wear protection AND ultimate cleanliness.

If I were OP, I'd have some HPL 20w-50 on order. Send a sample at 5k if you want. If not, not big deal, 10k is child's play for this oil. Gobs of margin to give on hot restart wear as well as fuel dilution and oxidation. The only downside is a potential feeling of slight sluggishness and maybe a tiny mpg hit, which will vary from mild o completely invisible, depending on driving style.

Heck, DFW is one of the few places the SAE 40 might be a contender, but I personally find the 20w-50 far more appealing.
 
well you can certainly do better on the oil side in most instances.

In the DFW area, there's no reason to be using anything under 40 grade. If this were my Pathfinder and my DFW location, I'd be looking at Mobil 1 15w-50 as the cheaper option with HPL 20w-50 as the upgrade.

The Mobil 1 15w-50 has really juicy levels of phosphorus (ZDDP) at 1100-1200ppm. And with the lower calcium package in API SP it's a legit street-use oil.

But the HPL, even in basic PCMO form, crushes it in two key ways. First, the HPL has esters that really improve boundary lubrication and startup wear. There's no ester in the current Mobil 1 15w-50. Second, the HPL has a very healthy slug of moly in it-- 600+ ppm. This is super critical at startup wear and even further enhances boundary lubrication.


So even though the HPL is a 20w instead of a 15w like the Mobil 1, the HPL would absolutely crush it in terms of startup wear. Add to that the brute high HTHS of nearly 5.5 (!) and you have in the HPL a liquid armor for engine internals that still has superb startup wear protection AND ultimate cleanliness.

If I were OP, I'd have some HPL 20w-50 on order. Send a sample at 5k if you want. If not, not big deal, 10k is child's play for this oil. Gobs of margin to give on hot restart wear as well as fuel dilution and oxidation. The only downside is a potential feeling of slight sluggishness and maybe a tiny mpg hit, which will vary from mild o completely invisible, depending on driving style.

Heck, DFW is one of the few places the SAE 40 might be a contender, but I personally find the 20w-50 far more appealing.
Given the myriad of reports of voided warranties when dealing with sludged Pathfinders, this is one case where I would not stray from the manual. Give them nothing but perfect maintenance records to work with.

These engines are so sludge prone they will die from coked rings before any difference in wear between 20 and 40 weight shows up. Keep the warranty pristine.
 
While I don't know about that specific engine, I doubt sludge can really be a cause of failure in a modern engine with a quality oil. If i had that kind of a concern, I would use a good cleaning oil from a reputable brand, such as Valvoline RP, Valvoline Advanced, Pennzoil Ultra Premium, Mobil 1 etc.
 
While I don't know about that specific engine, I doubt sludge can really be a cause of failure in a modern engine with a quality oil. If i had that kind of a concern, I would use a good cleaning oil from a reputable brand, such as Valvoline RP, Valvoline Advanced, Pennzoil Ultra Premium, Mobil 1 etc.
This is an exception.
 
I see. But if even Valvoline Restore and Protect or other good quality Mobil 1 oils cannot clean enough, what is the remedy?
Valvoline Restore and Protect (or flush products) and 3000-5000 mi intervals seem to be necessary to prevent sludge related premature failures on these. It's not the end of the world for an enthusiast, but for the mainstream consumer it is pretty bad.
 
Valvoline Restore and Protect (or flush products) and 3000-5000 mi intervals seem to be necessary to prevent sludge related premature failures on these. It's not the end of the world for an enthusiast, but for the mainstream consumer it is pretty bad.
Oh I see. What I understand from your comment is, if someone is using a quality oil (lets say M1), and change every 7k miles a premature failing due ro sludge is almost certain. If that is the case, the problem is really big, as those would be a good maintenance schedule for almost any engine out there
 
Oh I see. What I understand from your comment is, if someone is using a quality oil (lets say M1), and change every 7k miles a premature failing due ro sludge is almost certain. If that is the case, the problem is really big, as those would be a good maintenance schedule for almost any engine out there
Yes, that appears to be possible with the VQ35DD engine. The prevailing theory is that the PCV system is inadequate to handle the extra blowby and contamination created by the direct injection. This leads to quick accumulation of contaminants in the oil, which if left unchanged for too long, can polymerize and create sludge. In the worst cases, the PCV system fails, leading to a cascade of oil gallery blockages, timing chain issues, and death.

It appears that full synthetic oil changes every 3000-500 miles are required, along with regular inspection of the PCV system, with preemptive replacement every 15-30k mi. It's annoying but not the end of the world.

My guess is anemic driving habits and use of cheap ethanol-laden fuel also adds to the issue.
 
Nissan went to a 10k depending on driving habits OLM. I haven’t been brave enough to try it on my GDI Nissans. I have an 18 rogue that’s port and still change it every 5k. I do have HPL in it right now and will probably run it till next spring, regardless of mileage.
 
I have the 3.8 version in my 2020 Frontier with the 9 speed so I will give you my opinion. I bought with 48k and 0w20 was used but don’t think it’s a problem, however new engine in less than 2k. New engine has been ran with Valvoline Advanced 5w30 now for over 9000 miles with 6k oil change. Engine is quieter and so far oil is not black. I put around 3k a month mostly Dashing. Lots of city driving this month in SW Jacksonville Florida. I should be over 6k about the time I get back to Louisiana.
The engine uses no oil and gets better fuel mileage than I expected. The problem with the setup is that the first 2 gears are too low, which is good for towing but bad for acceleration. I am the exception, however I do like the transmission after the first two gears especially in subdivision.
I can’t see sludge being a problem unless maintenance isn’t done.
 
Back
Top Bottom