Nissan owners manual recommends dino

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Well nearly a full year after picking up the wife's new 2003 Pathfinder I actually read some of the owner's manual. Much to my surprise, "Nissan does not recommend synthetic type oils but recommends mineral based oils. These oils must however, meet the API quality and SAE viscosity ratings specified for your vehicle."

First surprise was the specific mention of NOT recommending a synthetic oil and the second surprise was the "MUST" in the API and viscosity area. It is the first time I've seen a "must" mentioned for a motor oil in any owner's manual.

And in case you're wondering, the manual shows API SJ and GF-II as the yardstick. It also shows 5w30 as the "preferred" viscosity for all temps and allows for 10-30 or 10w-40 from zero F and above.

Back to the subject of the post......why would Nissan prefer mineral over synthetics?
 
Mostly ignorance and urban folklore as far as the synthetic goes. There is nothing magical about a Nissan engine that melts like the wicked witch of the west when you put any decent brand of modern synthetic oil in. On the flip side, I would seriously doubt the writer's knowledge of lubrication.

When the manual was written, the API was probably still at SJ. Some cars say must and shall, others don't.
 
We have been down this road before. Nissan had some isues with their medium and heavy duty trucks sold over seas. They used seal materials that did not react well with some ester based synthetics. It was easier for them to make a blanket statment about avoiding synthetics then it was to take the blame for a poor choice in seal materials or to try to educate their customer base. I do not belive that this has ever been an issue for their non-comercial vechiles sold in North America! I also do not think that any PAO based synthetic has ever been an issue.

The above information came from Exxon/Mobil's web site.
 
quote:

Originally posted by mikep:

And in case you're wondering, the manual shows API SJ and GF-II as the yardstick. It also shows 5w30 as the "preferred" viscosity for all temps and allows for 10-30 or 10w-40 from zero F and above.

Back to the subject of the post......why would Nissan prefer mineral over synthetics?


Isn't your Pathfinder a 2004 model. And they still recommend SJ and GF-II oil? That was the recommendation for my 1996 Ford! Other posters have said the same thing about Nissan saying mineral oil is "preferred". Maybe they are afraid that if you use synthetic oil you wouldn't change it all
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. Maybe the car companies are starting to become afraid of their dumbing down of their customers
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. VIVA BITOG
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.

WHIMSEY
 
quote:

Originally posted by Whimsey:
Isn't your Pathfinder a 2004 model.
WHIMSEY


Nope...2003. We got it at the end of the '03 model year.

Pablo and JB.....could it be (and Whimsey eluded to this as well) that the are attempting to keep the scheduled service interval $$ flowing for their dealers by not recommending synthetics? Neither the Nissan dealer around the corner nor the one 10 miles away offer any synthetic choices. If someone is apt to use a 5, 6 or even 7-8 dollar synthetic like AMSOIL, Mobil 1 or RL, then they might also be extending drain intervals and cutting the dealer visits in half or even more.

JB..interesting about the seal material. I didn't know there were any modern seals that could be adversely effected by PAOs.
 
Honda seems to take a similar stance. They believe that conventional oil is fine for their products and as such recommend you use them. Many Nissan's and other makes go into the 200-300k range on plain conventional.
 
Just run 5w30 conventional and follow the makers "directions", it will run a good long time and treat you well.
 
My Nissan loves synthetic*. I've got the used oil analysis to prove it.

They're just trying to get you to visit the stealership more often. $$$ for oil chages.

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* the green elixir of all that is good anyways....
 
Well I've been using Mobil 1 10W40 in my 93 Pathfinder for the 9 years I've owned it. I add maybe 1 quart between 6000 mile oci's and it's got 257,000 miles and will probably go another 200,000. I'm in the final stage of a second AutoRX treatment then back to Mobil 1. Haven't done a used oil analysis yet but I have the kit so in a few months I'll have it done. I noticed a HUGE improvement during the first AutoRX treatment in performance and gas mileage. That stuff really works!
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ugly3:
Just run 5w30 conventional and follow the makers "directions", it will run a good long time and treat you well.

Um hum ,what he said.
 
I have little over 60K on my 2K Max and 5W30 is recommended but I have been mixing 3 quarts of 5W30 and 1 quart of 10W30 for sometime now.

No complaints so far and no difference in drive.
 
Well I've been using Mobil 1 10W40 in my 93 Pathfinder for the 9 years I've owned it

You mean 10W30? Didn't think Mobil 1 made a 10W40 weight.
 
quote:

I have a 2002 Nissan Frontier with a 3.3-liter supercharged V6. I started using Mobil 1 at 50 miles and the truck now has 19,000 miles on it. I have been using Mobil 1 10w30 since the dealer requested that viscosity, even though the factory manual states 5w30 is best. The local dealer did not want me to run Mobil 1 to start with. I would like to know your comments and whether I should consider your 0w30 or 0W-40 viscosities.

The truck is driven in moderate to heavy stop-and-go traffic during the week for 80 to 100 miles, and sees 75+ mph interstate travel for 500 miles each weekend. I have been changing my oil and filter every 3,500 to 4,000 miles. I am very pleased with your product, and the truck I traded on the Frontier – a 1994 one-ton Dodge 4x4 – had 200,000 miles on it, thanks to Mobil 1 10w30. I am a little concerned with the local dealer's attitude toward your product.


-- John Morehart, Jefferson City, TN
There are still many myths among Service Technicians regarding when one should switch to Mobil 1 in a new engine. Mobil 1 is factory fill in some of the world's finest vehicles, including Corvettes, Cadillacs, Porsches and Mercedes-Benzes. There simply is no need to wait to switch to Mobil 1 (as you pointed out). Regarding viscosity recommendations, we would keep with the factory's recommendation of 5w30, particularly in the winter. It flows at lower temperatures than 10w30 and can give you a slight increase in engine efficiency. You can feel confident to continue using Mobil 1 and following your same oil change regimen.


 
quote:

Originally posted by mikep:
.... JB..interesting about the seal material. I didn't know there were any modern seals that could be adversely effected by PAOs.

Uh... If you look at it again, I believe he said the issue was with esters.
quote:

From JB (emphasis added):
They used seal materials that did not react well with some ester based synthetics . It was easier for them to make a blanket statment about avoiding synthetics then it was to take the blame for a poor choice in seal materials or to try to educate their customer base. I do not belive that this has ever been an issue for their non-comercial vechiles sold in North America! I also do not think that any PAO based synthetic has ever been an issue.

 
Neither Esters or PAO's are good on seals when making a 100% Ester or PAO based oil. Majority based PAO oils use roughtly 15% esters and Ester based oils like RL (65% maybe) use some PAO as well. Don't forget their are over 300 esters available.
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They used seal materials that did not react well with some ester based synthetics
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This issue has been debated a lot on this board I have resigned to the fact that unless you use a standard mineral base oil there may be a risk of chemical reaction to some other oils. I say treat with ARX once in a while and hopefully that will avoid the problem.I plan on treating with it 2000 miles before a OCI.
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My Nissan service manager told me that Nissan does not want syn oils in these engines until 30K miles because syn oil does not allow proper ring seating in.

Here is what I did with my 03 Altima which goes against this manager's advice but it worked great for me. At first 700 miles I drained the 5-30 Esso conventional oil, I then made my own 50/50 blend of Esso 5w30 conventional and walmart 5-30 Tech2000 syn oil. I have used this blend at 3K OCIs since and I now am approaching 12K miles. I have had breakin oil consumption, this consumption has stopped so I believe my rings seated, time for the 100% syn oil now.

I will now use diesel/gas Esso XD3 100% syn 0-30 oil, if you look at specs on this API rated SL oil you will find the TBN 30% higher than Esso counterpart gasoline oils, the viscosity at 100C and 40C much better than other 5w30 conventional or syn gas rated oils. And the pour point -9 to -15 C better and the XD3 is $2.00 litre less than most SL oils.

My dealership told me that if I stubbornly insist to use syn oil this early that 0-30 XD3 exceeds all conventional 5w30 oil specs, infact, the salesman who sold me this car has a 200K Maxima which he has been using an Esso 5-30 semi syn oil, he uses it to quiet down his steel time chain (which he should replace anyway because these chains require changing at this point) After I showed the specs on this XD3 syn oil he is switching to this XD3 syn 0-30.

My Nissan service manager is 100% for syn oil in
Nissans after the seat it, if your Nissan does not burn breakin oil then I would use your Exxon XD3 syn oil or equal, I will use our Esso conterpart with no fear in my new engine now at 12K miles. I learned in this forum that diesel/gas rated oils have great additive packs in my diesel oil research due to fact I am recent first time diesel owner. I can post the specs on Esso conventional Extra, Esso Superflow syn and XD3 syn, the XD3 in 0-30 syn blows the others away in 5-30 gas applications for only $4.19 litre Can funds, unbeatable value.

My Nissan manual has nothing against syn oil, my service manager fully endorses it and states I may have no problem with early syn oil use, he is advising me based on Nissan seminar info passed to him. He endorses syn oil after 30K breakin in any Nissan engine.

Cyprs
 
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