So last Thursday on my way home from work my 300ZX spun its cylinder #1 rod bearing with 153,000 on the original motor. I was running Royal Purple 20W-50 at the time (whats recommended by most 300ZX builders) and until my buddy tears the motor down for a complete rebuild I can't help but wonder what caused the failure. I doubt it was the oils fault, however I won't run it again just in case. So does anyone have some new oil recommendations on what to run after the break in period? I'm probably going to order some Brad Penn break in oil for the first 500 miles.
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Nissan 300ZX spun rod bearing
- Thread starter ChattZX
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I will have to agree that it wasn't the RP oil that caused the bearing to go south. I do think your post is invaluable as we now know syrup oil does not protect forever. How do you drive your ZX is it tracked, driven at wot, any mods to speak of? Or just your DD style driving?
Hope you wernt runnig one of those a china-made greyand red nissan service part junk filters.
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
So last Thursday on my way home from work my 300ZX spun its cylinder #1 rod bearing with 153,000 on the original motor. I was running Royal Purple 20W-50 at the time (whats recommended by most 300ZX builders) and until my buddy tears the motor down for a complete rebuild I can't help but wonder what caused the failure. I doubt it was the oils fault, however I won't run it again just in case. So does anyone have some new oil recommendations on what to run after the break in period? I'm probably going to order some Brad Penn break in oil for the first 500 miles.
what oil weight does nissan say to use?
So last Thursday on my way home from work my 300ZX spun its cylinder #1 rod bearing with 153,000 on the original motor. I was running Royal Purple 20W-50 at the time (whats recommended by most 300ZX builders) and until my buddy tears the motor down for a complete rebuild I can't help but wonder what caused the failure. I doubt it was the oils fault, however I won't run it again just in case. So does anyone have some new oil recommendations on what to run after the break in period? I'm probably going to order some Brad Penn break in oil for the first 500 miles.
what oil weight does nissan say to use?
Yes - you'll have to tear it down to see what really happened.
It may not be a spun bearing, but a worn one, or a bad crank journal, or a combination. Maybe even a rod bolt that failed.
It may not be a spun bearing, but a worn one, or a bad crank journal, or a combination. Maybe even a rod bolt that failed.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Yes - you'll have to tear it down to see what really happened.
It may not be a spun bearing, but a worn one, or a bad crank journal, or a combination. Maybe even a rod bolt that failed.
Yeah it could be a few things.
The VG is such a rock solid engine it's hard to imagine something just self destructed but the teardown should indicate something.
Yes - you'll have to tear it down to see what really happened.
It may not be a spun bearing, but a worn one, or a bad crank journal, or a combination. Maybe even a rod bolt that failed.
Yeah it could be a few things.
The VG is such a rock solid engine it's hard to imagine something just self destructed but the teardown should indicate something.
Back in the day it was 10W-30.
While the very heavy oil choice likely had little to do with the cause of the spun bearing it clearly is OTT heavy for street use.
I'd be interested to know what the rebuilders/tuners of the 300ZX give as a reason for such a heavy oil. I suspect it has to do with track use of the turbo version of the car and possibly oil starvation during high g cornering.
For street use I suggest starting with Red Line 0W-30 and fine tune yoour viscosity choice based on the minimum optimum oil pressure at elevated rev's. On the off chance that you could need something heavier you could blend in some RL 0W-40 or 5W-50.
While the very heavy oil choice likely had little to do with the cause of the spun bearing it clearly is OTT heavy for street use.
I'd be interested to know what the rebuilders/tuners of the 300ZX give as a reason for such a heavy oil. I suspect it has to do with track use of the turbo version of the car and possibly oil starvation during high g cornering.
For street use I suggest starting with Red Line 0W-30 and fine tune yoour viscosity choice based on the minimum optimum oil pressure at elevated rev's. On the off chance that you could need something heavier you could blend in some RL 0W-40 or 5W-50.
Back in the day it was 10W-30.
While the very heavy oil choice likely had little to do with the cause of the spun bearing it clearly is OTT heavy for street use.
I'd be interested to know what the rebuilders/tuners of the 300ZX give as a reason for such a heavy oil. I suspect it has to do with track use of the turbo version of the car and possibly oil starvation during high g cornering.
For street use I suggest starting with Red Line 0W-30 and fine tune your viscosity choice based on the minimum optimum oil pressure at elevated rev's. On the off chance that you could need something heavier you could blend in some RL 0W-40 or 5W-50.
While the very heavy oil choice likely had little to do with the cause of the spun bearing it clearly is OTT heavy for street use.
I'd be interested to know what the rebuilders/tuners of the 300ZX give as a reason for such a heavy oil. I suspect it has to do with track use of the turbo version of the car and possibly oil starvation during high g cornering.
For street use I suggest starting with Red Line 0W-30 and fine tune your viscosity choice based on the minimum optimum oil pressure at elevated rev's. On the off chance that you could need something heavier you could blend in some RL 0W-40 or 5W-50.
I was using a Nissan OEM oil filter like I always ran. I won't be using 20W-50 RP again thats for sure. Most of my driving is just casual DD driving with weekly spirited mountain runs and near redline rpm runs. I drive the car like its meant to be driven. Is the Brad Penn oil pretty good stuff? I really need an oil that can handle some thrashing. I was also looking into some Eneos 5W-40.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Back in the day it was 10W-30.
While the very heavy oil choice likely had little to do with the cause of the spun bearing it clearly is OTT heavy for street use.
I'd be interested to know what the rebuilders/tuners of the 300ZX give as a reason for such a heavy oil. I suspect it has to do with track use of the turbo version of the car and possibly oil starvation during high g cornering.
For street use I suggest starting with Red Line 0W-30 and fine tune yoour viscosity choice based on the minimum optimum oil pressure at elevated rev's. On the off chance that you could need something heavier you could blend in some RL 0W-40 or 5W-50.
I believe it is to cure some of the oil starvation issues on higher G corners. I'm unsure if I would run a 0W-30, as most people ironically spin bearings in these motors running a light weight oil. I'd probably want at least a 40 weight for summer months at least. I'd be open to any suggestions no matter the cost. This rebuild is going to cost a pretty penny as it is, so I won't skimp out.
Back in the day it was 10W-30.
While the very heavy oil choice likely had little to do with the cause of the spun bearing it clearly is OTT heavy for street use.
I'd be interested to know what the rebuilders/tuners of the 300ZX give as a reason for such a heavy oil. I suspect it has to do with track use of the turbo version of the car and possibly oil starvation during high g cornering.
For street use I suggest starting with Red Line 0W-30 and fine tune yoour viscosity choice based on the minimum optimum oil pressure at elevated rev's. On the off chance that you could need something heavier you could blend in some RL 0W-40 or 5W-50.
I believe it is to cure some of the oil starvation issues on higher G corners. I'm unsure if I would run a 0W-30, as most people ironically spin bearings in these motors running a light weight oil. I'd probably want at least a 40 weight for summer months at least. I'd be open to any suggestions no matter the cost. This rebuild is going to cost a pretty penny as it is, so I won't skimp out.
How about this: oil cooler (with a thermostat) and/or a higher volume oil pump and/or a larger oil pan and/or a pan with baffles to prevent oil starvation.
Or all of those things.
I realize this probably wouldn't have solved whatever caused the engine to go, but they might be worthwhile investments while the engine is out of the car.
Or all of those things.
I realize this probably wouldn't have solved whatever caused the engine to go, but they might be worthwhile investments while the engine is out of the car.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Back in the day it was 10W-30.
While the very heavy oil choice likely had little to do with the cause of the spun bearing it clearly is OTT heavy for street use.
I'd be interested to know what the rebuilders/tuners of the 300ZX give as a reason for such a heavy oil. I suspect it has to do with track use of the turbo version of the car and possibly oil starvation during high g cornering.
For street use I suggest starting with Red Line 0W-30 and fine tune yoour viscosity choice based on the minimum optimum oil pressure at elevated rev's. On the off chance that you could need something heavier you could blend in some RL 0W-40 or 5W-50.
I believe it is to cure some of the oil starvation issues on higher G corners. I'm unsure if I would run a 0W-30, as most people ironically spin bearings in these motors running a light weight oil. I'd probably want at least a 40 weight for summer months at least. I'd be open to any suggestions no matter the cost. This rebuild is going to cost a pretty penny as it is, so I won't skimp out.
If you don't want to "skimp out", install an oil pressure gauge which is an effective viscometer. This will tell you how much viscosity reserve you have every second you engine is running. It's also the only proper way to fine tune your viscosity choice to your applcation. It will of course also tell you if you're getting any oil starvation when cornering as unlikely as that may be on the street.
Having said that, in the meantime you could use some readily available M1 0W-40 (or RP 0W-40 for that matter). It will be heavier than necessary but being a high VI oil the disadvantages over the spec' 30wt will be minimized.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Back in the day it was 10W-30.
While the very heavy oil choice likely had little to do with the cause of the spun bearing it clearly is OTT heavy for street use.
I'd be interested to know what the rebuilders/tuners of the 300ZX give as a reason for such a heavy oil. I suspect it has to do with track use of the turbo version of the car and possibly oil starvation during high g cornering.
For street use I suggest starting with Red Line 0W-30 and fine tune yoour viscosity choice based on the minimum optimum oil pressure at elevated rev's. On the off chance that you could need something heavier you could blend in some RL 0W-40 or 5W-50.
I believe it is to cure some of the oil starvation issues on higher G corners. I'm unsure if I would run a 0W-30, as most people ironically spin bearings in these motors running a light weight oil. I'd probably want at least a 40 weight for summer months at least. I'd be open to any suggestions no matter the cost. This rebuild is going to cost a pretty penny as it is, so I won't skimp out.
If you don't want to "skimp out", install an oil pressure gauge which is an effective viscometer. This will tell you how much viscosity reserve you have every second you engine is running. It's also the only proper way to fine tune your viscosity choice to your applcation. It will of course also tell you if you're getting any oil starvation when cornering as unlikely as that may be on the street.
Having said that, in the meantime you could use some readily available M1 0W-40 (or RP 0W-40 for that matter). It will be heavier than necessary but being a high VI oil the disadvantages over the spec' 30wt will be minimized.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Back in the day it was 10W-30.
While the very heavy oil choice likely had little to do with the cause of the spun bearing it clearly is OTT heavy for street use.
I'd be interested to know what the rebuilders/tuners of the 300ZX give as a reason for such a heavy oil. I suspect it has to do with track use of the turbo version of the car and possibly oil starvation during high g cornering.
For street use I suggest starting with Red Line 0W-30 and fine tune yoour viscosity choice based on the minimum optimum oil pressure at elevated rev's. On the off chance that you could need something heavier you could blend in some RL 0W-40 or 5W-50.
I believe it is to cure some of the oil starvation issues on higher G corners. I'm unsure if I would run a 0W-30, as most people ironically spin bearings in these motors running a light weight oil. I'd probably want at least a 40 weight for summer months at least. I'd be open to any suggestions no matter the cost. This rebuild is going to cost a pretty penny as it is, so I won't skimp out.
If you don't want to "skimp out", install an oil pressure gauge which is an effective viscometer. This will tell you how much viscosity reserve you have every second you engine is running. It's also the only proper way to fine tune your viscosity choice to your applcation. It will of course also tell you if you're getting any oil starvation when cornering as unlikely as that may be on the street.
Having said that, in the meantime you could use some readily available M1 0W-40 (or RP 0W-40 for that matter). It will be heavier than necessary but being a high VI oil the disadvantages over the spec' 30wt will be minimized.
Z32's come stock with an oil pressure gauge. At full rpm with the RP 20W-50 it would be at about 80 psi.
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Back in the day it was 10W-30.
While the very heavy oil choice likely had little to do with the cause of the spun bearing it clearly is OTT heavy for street use.
I'd be interested to know what the rebuilders/tuners of the 300ZX give as a reason for such a heavy oil. I suspect it has to do with track use of the turbo version of the car and possibly oil starvation during high g cornering.
For street use I suggest starting with Red Line 0W-30 and fine tune yoour viscosity choice based on the minimum optimum oil pressure at elevated rev's. On the off chance that you could need something heavier you could blend in some RL 0W-40 or 5W-50.
I believe it is to cure some of the oil starvation issues on higher G corners. I'm unsure if I would run a 0W-30, as most people ironically spin bearings in these motors running a light weight oil. I'd probably want at least a 40 weight for summer months at least. I'd be open to any suggestions no matter the cost. This rebuild is going to cost a pretty penny as it is, so I won't skimp out.
If you don't want to "skimp out", install an oil pressure gauge which is an effective viscometer. This will tell you how much viscosity reserve you have every second you engine is running. It's also the only proper way to fine tune your viscosity choice to your applcation. It will of course also tell you if you're getting any oil starvation when cornering as unlikely as that may be on the street.
Having said that, in the meantime you could use some readily available M1 0W-40 (or RP 0W-40 for that matter). It will be heavier than necessary but being a high VI oil the disadvantages over the spec' 30wt will be minimized.
Z32's come stock with an oil pressure gauge. At full rpm with the RP 20W-50 it would be at about 80 psi.
The 80 psi sounds like the by-pass setting on the oil pump.
With such a heavy oil I suspect you'll be in by-pass mode most if not all of the time at elevated rev's. That's not a good thing and will allow the bearings to run hotter than they other wise would on the spec' oil due to the greatly reduced oil flow.
With such a heavy oil I suspect you'll be in by-pass mode most if not all of the time at elevated rev's. That's not a good thing and will allow the bearings to run hotter than they other wise would on the spec' oil due to the greatly reduced oil flow.
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