Next oil(s) for my 2010 Accord LX

[Phishin]

So, I've been running the old PU through my Honda Accord. Usually, it's been a 50/50 mix of 5w20 and 5w30 and a heavy slug of LubeGard BioTech in it as well. I'm just about out of stock of the PU.....

So, I'm looking for my next oil choice. I like to mix and tinker and screw around, so keep your comments to yourself if you want to bash me for mixing oils (Yes, I know I'm not accomplishing anything by mixing my own brew).

Does anyone have any interesting mixes that they like? Here are a few that I've come up with, based on what I find in my garage:

VSP 0w20 / VR-1 10w30 Synthetic (Black Bottle) Mix (50/50) -- I have enough of both of these oils to do 4-5 oil changes.
M1 0w20 AFE / M1 5w40 TDT Mix (50/50) -- Probably could do 6 oil changes with this as well.

One thing I've been really wanting to try, that I found someone on here post a long time ago (right when I joined) was a mix of M1 0w20 AFE and M1 Racing 0w50. I've always wanted to trying the M1 Racing oil.

I figure I should burn up some of my stash before I buy more oil. Whatever I put in my Accord, my wife's CRV will probably go on a straight diet of M1 0w30 AFE.
My truck burns oil like no tomorrow (quart every 600 miles), so it just gets fed the oil that I drain out of my Honda's.

 

[53' Stude]

M1 0w40/M1 0w30 "racing oil"

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted By: car51
M1 0w40/M1 0w30 "racing oil"

Yeah, I hear ya. That would be killer too. But I think the 50/50 mix of M1 0w20 AFE and M1 0w50 Racing will give me a good 30 weight oil....since the 50 weight racing oil is basically a heavy 40.

 

[Shrubitup]

get some Formula Shell 5W30 at home depot for $2 a quart.

 

[FZ1]

I like your mix. Drop the lube guard. If it's using then top it up with the 5-30. Use the same brand and oil type for the mix. Jmo.

 

[6starprez]

I've only gone as far as mixing similar oils:

M1 EP 0W-20 & M1 EP 5w30
M1 AFE 0W-20 & M1 AFE 0W-30
Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20 & Pennzoil Ultra 5w30

 

[bbhero]

6starprez has got a good approach to mixing... if you are going to do it at all... mix similar products like he did. The additive packages are quite likely to be very, very similar between 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 0w30 and or 0w40 offerings from one oil brand. This doesn't guarantee that the mix will meet any specs in particular. Aka a 0w20 Dexos approved and HTO-06 oil plus a 5w30 Dexos approved oil and HTO-06 MAY OR MAY NOT = a Dexos approved mixed oil blend. No way to know for sure about that unless it's sent off for real testing to see if it would indeed pass those tests for Dexos approval and HTO-06 approval.

Again, if you are going to mix... keep it in the same family so to speak. A brew of Castrol and Pennzoil may not be the best idea due to different additive packages. Doesn't mean your car going to blow up running a mix of those two oils. But, it may not be the greatest idea since the Pb balloon either.

 

[FZ1]

Question. Does the dipstick oil level drop over the course of the oci when running a straight 5w-20?

 

[UltrafanUK]

A quart every 600 miles is real bad!

Make sure the crank case vent (CCV) system is working (Google ballooon test etc) and DO NOT USE USED OIL, as even after 3000 miles of use the detergent aaditives might be rather low and the viscosity could have declined too far due to fuel contamination or high temp shearing.
Move up one SAE group to an Xw40 with the correct API spec's and if that does not help the oil consumption, change to using an HM oil or a major brand stop leak additive.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
Question. Does the dipstick oil level drop over the course of the oci when running a straight 5w-20?


Nope. Most I've ever seen is a 0.3--0.5 quarts over 9k miles. Nothing really.

Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
A quart every 600 miles is real bad!

Make sure the crank case vent (CCV) system is working (Google ballooon test etc) and DO NOT USE USED OIL, as even after 3000 miles of use the detergent aaditives might be rather low and the viscosity could have declined too far due to fuel contamination or high temp shearing.
Move up one SAE group to an Xw40 with the correct API spec's and if that does not help the oil consumption, change to using an HM oil or a major brand stop leak additive.


Yes, the PCV is working. 100% sure of it. It wasn't when I bought the truck though. I've run straight 50 weight in the truck, and it still burns oil at the same rate. It must have coked piston rings or broken rings. It's OK. Most of the oil is burned in cylinder #1, so I have to change/clean that plug every 2-3k miles. Really. There must be something wrong with that piston/ring.

It's a $2k truck. I'm just gonna run it.