Next oil choice for 2012 Accord 2.4

[gregk24]

Currently I have M1 EP 0w20 with a quart of HPL EC 30 weight / grade. I have ran the EC for the recommended 2000 mile interval and and ready to change the oil / filter. I do plan on reducing the OCI as changing annually has resulted in some level of discoloration or varnish under the valve cover which was never present before I started extending the OCI.

At any rate, I'm looking for an oil that will do a good job of cleaning and keeping the engine clean, which I realize most oils SHOULD do well. I was originally considering sticking with M1 AFE 0w20 / M1 EP 0w20, but am open to other options and even other weights. I have always been a stickler for using 0w20 per the manual but have read plenty of K24 owners running 30 and even 40 grade oils. At this point the car is nearing 11 years old so I don't feel as bad branching out from the factory recommendation.

Currently considering M1 AFE 0w30 and PP 5w30. What are your thoughts?

 

[MParr]

5W20 or 5W30 Havoline Pro DS

 

[wpod]

HPL oil.

 

[Hermann]

The AFE 0w-30

 

[gregk24]

HPL oil.

That was my game plan when I purchased the EC but at over $100 I don't think I can justify the price at such a short OCI. I think I'd rather change more often with name brand OTC oils. I may change my mind, will see.

 

[Hall]

but am open to other options and even other weights. I have always been a stickler for using 0w20 per the manual but have read plenty of K24 owners running 30

If your Accord lived in Australia (and many other countries), the owners manual would tell you you can use 0W-20 up to 10W-40. Castrol (AU) recommends 5W-30, for example.

 

[The Critic]

I think the HPL 10W20 would be an excellent oil for your climate. It is incredibly shear stable by design due to containing no VII and should have a NOACK that is under 4%. If purchased in 4 gal cases it is about $10/qt and for your low annual mileage, I think you can run it for the full year with no concerns about deposit control.

 

[High Performance Lubricants]

That was my game plan when I purchased the EC but at over $100 I don't think I can justify the price at such a short OCI. I think I'd rather change more often with name brand OTC oils. I may change my mind, will see.

The good news is the oil will run clean with longer drains as well. It actually is a good solution.

David

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

In Florida, in my mind any of those oils are going to be just fine. I'd just go to an October/April OCI still cheaper than going to the oil store!

 

[Shel_B]

I think the HPL 10W20 would be an excellent oil for your climate. It is incredibly shear stable by design due to containing no VII and should have a NOACK that is under 4%. If purchased in 4 gal cases it is about $10/qt and for your low annual mileage, I think you can run it for the full year with no concerns about deposit control.

^^^^ This, pretty much word for word.

 

[FZ1]

Currently I have M1 EP 0w20 with a quart of HPL EC 30 weight / grade. I have ran the EC for the recommended 2000 mile interval and and ready to change the oil / filter. I do plan on reducing the OCI as changing annually has resulted in some level of discoloration or varnish under the valve cover which was never present before I started extending the OCI.

At any rate, I'm looking for an oil that will do a good job of cleaning and keeping the engine clean, which I realize most oils SHOULD do well. I was originally considering sticking with M1 AFE 0w20 / M1 EP 0w20, but am open to other options and even other weights. I have always been a stickler for using 0w20 per the manual but have read plenty of K24 owners running 30 and even 40 grade oils. At this point the car is nearing 11 years old so I don't feel as bad branching out from the factory recommendation.

Currently considering M1 AFE 0w30 and PP 5w30. What are your thoughts?

Try PUP 0w-20. It's thicker than the EP or AFE and runs more quietly, in my Camry. Change it 2x year. Order 2 jugs oline from WM, ships free to your door.

 

[NormanBuntz]

In Florida, why do you need to run any 0W-xx oil, especially on a 10 year old vehicle?

 

[SR5]

In Florida, why do you need to run any 0W-xx oil, especially on a 10 year old vehicle?

Yep, vanilla M1 5W30 or PP 5W30 would look after you just fine.

 

[2010Civic]

It's the K24. It doesn't matter what oil you use.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Another vote for vanilla M1 5W30.

 

[wlk]

I have ran QSFS 5w30 in my Elements k24 last couple 5k oci just fine. I have PP Euro 0w40 in it now as I was out of the 5w30 and it runs fine as well.

 

[Luftmasse]

I've been using 5W30 on these K24 engines.

 

[DuckRyder]

M1 0/40 for the walmart choice.

 

[dan_erickson]

Anything would work in a K24 with your low annual mileage and regular Mobil 1 has always kept my engines clean under normal OCI. HPL will go the distance and keep cleaning as you run it for a very long time. I plan on keeping my J35 full of HPL for one year OCI.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Currently I have M1 EP 0w20 with a quart of HPL EC 30 weight / grade. I have ran the EC for the recommended 2000 mile interval and and ready to change the oil / filter. I do plan on reducing the OCI as changing annually has resulted in some level of discoloration or varnish under the valve cover

Currently considering M1 AFE 0w30 and PP 5w30. What are your thoughts?

A big NO! for the 0W30, as there is no need for 0W in FLA and the oil is likely compromised with a high VM load to provide the ILSAC RC rating and the 0W winter rating.
That high VM load doesn't help your varnish situation. VM is not oil.

If sticking with M1, Their HM 10W30 or just their 5W30 would do well. Also consider Valvoline Advanced or Extended protection 5W30 easily on par with M1 offerings.

- Ken