I started with Mustang because that's what I know but I've looked very briefly at the first gen (and 1970) Camaro and it looks like the Second gen Charger had the Mopar slant six in it. Always liked the looks of both but family didn't have luck with brief forays into Mopar land in the 80's and both look 'beefier' than the mustang (at lest the '64.5 to '66)
Next Crazy Idea: '66 Mustang 6 Cylinder
- Thread starter cadfaeltex
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As I mentioned in the other thread,
the 200 six responds very well to increased compression (mill 060 inches off a stock head). Adding a 2BBL Weber on the log intake by fabrication. Headers. Electronic ign.
The suspension mods make all the difference in ownership satisfaction though. Slight lowering, stiffer springs/shocks, upper control arm "relocation" and bigger front sway bar, rear bar too.
The power steering box is 4 turns "lock to lock" and the manual steering box is 5.
The six cylinder 'stang is light enough to use a 4 turn box on manual steering. Giving a very responsive feel!
I prefer the automatics with the six. They can be quite good.
the 200 six responds very well to increased compression (mill 060 inches off a stock head). Adding a 2BBL Weber on the log intake by fabrication. Headers. Electronic ign.
The suspension mods make all the difference in ownership satisfaction though. Slight lowering, stiffer springs/shocks, upper control arm "relocation" and bigger front sway bar, rear bar too.
The power steering box is 4 turns "lock to lock" and the manual steering box is 5.
The six cylinder 'stang is light enough to use a 4 turn box on manual steering. Giving a very responsive feel!
I prefer the automatics with the six. They can be quite good.
Putting an ecoboost V6 into a Mustang of that vintage would be one heck of a cool project!
to steve, i moded a slant 6 by putting a 318 2 bdl on it. that was the only mod. realy picked it up. long before Chrysler did it. just dont weld the manifold, bolt and tap, it together.
Originally Posted By: cadfaeltex
I started with Mustang because that's what I know but I've looked very briefly at the first gen (and 1970) Camaro and it looks like the Second gen Charger had the Mopar slant six in it. Always liked the looks of both but family didn't have luck with brief forays into Mopar land in the 80's and both look 'beefier' than the mustang (at lest the '64.5 to '66)
Good luck finding a 2nd-gen Charger (68-70) that still has a slant-6. Sooo many got pulled out for a big-block transplant to make an R/T clone. Kinda sad, but to be honest the B-body is quite a bit of weight for a slant-6 to haul around. They're not terribly fun to drive in such a big car, much more fun in a little early A-body (Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda).
I guess what I'm saying is hopping up a six for a Mustang or early Mopar A-body sounds like a fun project, but it is getting a little pointless by the time you get something as heavy as a Mopar B-body (Charger, Coronet, Belvedere/Satellite).
I started with Mustang because that's what I know but I've looked very briefly at the first gen (and 1970) Camaro and it looks like the Second gen Charger had the Mopar slant six in it. Always liked the looks of both but family didn't have luck with brief forays into Mopar land in the 80's and both look 'beefier' than the mustang (at lest the '64.5 to '66)
Good luck finding a 2nd-gen Charger (68-70) that still has a slant-6. Sooo many got pulled out for a big-block transplant to make an R/T clone. Kinda sad, but to be honest the B-body is quite a bit of weight for a slant-6 to haul around. They're not terribly fun to drive in such a big car, much more fun in a little early A-body (Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda).
I guess what I'm saying is hopping up a six for a Mustang or early Mopar A-body sounds like a fun project, but it is getting a little pointless by the time you get something as heavy as a Mopar B-body (Charger, Coronet, Belvedere/Satellite).
Originally Posted By: morris
to steve, i moded a slant 6 by putting a 318 2 bdl on it. that was the only mod. realy picked it up. long before Chrysler did it. just dont weld the manifold, bolt and tap, it together.
Cool idea, we got some serious go out of a few different ones way back in the 70's.
My old Valiant would really haul on the top end, surprised a lot of people!
to steve, i moded a slant 6 by putting a 318 2 bdl on it. that was the only mod. realy picked it up. long before Chrysler did it. just dont weld the manifold, bolt and tap, it together.
Cool idea, we got some serious go out of a few different ones way back in the 70's.
My old Valiant would really haul on the top end, surprised a lot of people!
Not to take it off topic, but International Scout had a couple slant 4 bangers, which were basically V8 engines with one cylinder bank removed. I would love to stick a built 196 CID Scout Slant 4 in a Ford Ranger or GMC Sonoma pickup. OTOH half a Ford 460 or Chevy 454 would be even better for a slant 4.
Well, I guess I'm not the only one thinking about an inline six...
http://editorial.autos.msn.com/blogs/autosblogpost.aspx?post=ed9a40d9-bd79-4257-b243-275fd6eb5068
http://editorial.autos.msn.com/blogs/autosblogpost.aspx?post=ed9a40d9-bd79-4257-b243-275fd6eb5068
Here is good way to find rust free 64.5-65
http://www.autoblog.com/2011/10/28/licen...mate/#continued
http://www.autoblog.com/2011/10/28/licen...mate/#continued
Interesting. Not that this would be the direction I'd go (not now at least). I bet (like some cars) you could build an entire new mustang from reproduction parts.
Originally Posted By: morris
just dont weld the manifold, bolt and tap, it together.
I disagree. A properly brazed on 2bbl mount will work perfectly, without ever leaking or being problematic. It will also be more compact, an issue with the Mustang's hood clearance. The bolt on adaptations were always troublesome. Also, the dyno results show the machined and brazed solution to be the more powerful one.
just dont weld the manifold, bolt and tap, it together.
I disagree. A properly brazed on 2bbl mount will work perfectly, without ever leaking or being problematic. It will also be more compact, an issue with the Mustang's hood clearance. The bolt on adaptations were always troublesome. Also, the dyno results show the machined and brazed solution to be the more powerful one.
Most durable of the I6 Ford engine family were the later 200's. With 7 main bearings, you could spin the stock internals near 10k before it broke a sweat. Trouble is getting enough fuel/air into it. Even JC Whitney sells an intake for a 2bbl that bolts up to the 200 I6. Avoid the 250 as that's the one with integral head and intake.
Don't overlook 2dr Mavericks either, especially 70-72.
Don't overlook 2dr Mavericks either, especially 70-72.
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
Most durable of the I6 Ford engine family were the later 200's. With 7 main bearings, you could spin the stock internals near 10k before it broke a sweat. Trouble is getting enough fuel/air into it. Even JC Whitney sells an intake for a 2bbl that bolts up to the 200 I6. Avoid the 250 as that's the one with integral head and intake.
Don't overlook 2dr Mavericks either, especially 70-72.
I had a 71 Maverick back in 1982. Very quick off the line, but died (pulling power) after that. Good motor though. I beat the [censored] outta that poor car.
Most durable of the I6 Ford engine family were the later 200's. With 7 main bearings, you could spin the stock internals near 10k before it broke a sweat. Trouble is getting enough fuel/air into it. Even JC Whitney sells an intake for a 2bbl that bolts up to the 200 I6. Avoid the 250 as that's the one with integral head and intake.
Don't overlook 2dr Mavericks either, especially 70-72.
I had a 71 Maverick back in 1982. Very quick off the line, but died (pulling power) after that. Good motor though. I beat the [censored] outta that poor car.
Originally Posted By: tangojetta
Here is good way to find rust free 64.5-65
http://www.autoblog.com/2011/10/28/licen...mate/#continued
You beat me to it...I was just about to post this link....
Mustang All New Ford Approved Body Shell
Here is good way to find rust free 64.5-65
http://www.autoblog.com/2011/10/28/licen...mate/#continued
You beat me to it...I was just about to post this link....
Mustang All New Ford Approved Body Shell
Never been a MOPAR guy but read up a little about the slant six. Dart I know (a little), what are the other small Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler cars from the 60's that would be a good candidate for this project?
One of the things I like about the first gen mustangs before they started to grow in '67 was the svelte look. Even though I like the look of the first gen camaro's and love the 70 camaro, they just look to big in my mind for what I would envision with this project.
One of the things I like about the first gen mustangs before they started to grow in '67 was the svelte look. Even though I like the look of the first gen camaro's and love the 70 camaro, they just look to big in my mind for what I would envision with this project.
From the 60's: only Dart and Valiant. 70's had Dart, Valiant, Duster, Demon, Dart Sport. A few more choices.
My 71 dart swinger had a slant-6 w/ over 200k on it and was still capable of over 100mph when I sold it.
My 71 dart swinger had a slant-6 w/ over 200k on it and was still capable of over 100mph when I sold it.
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
Most durable of the I6 Ford engine family were the later 200's. With 7 main bearings, you could spin the stock internals near 10k before it broke a sweat. Trouble is getting enough fuel/air into it. Even JC Whitney sells an intake for a 2bbl that bolts up to the 200 I6. Avoid the 250 as that's the one with integral head and intake.
Don't overlook 2dr Mavericks either, especially 70-72.
Now I love old six bangers, probably more than a lot, but REALLY? You can't be serious?
10,000 rpm. Think about that for a minute.
And BTW, many inline sixes had seven mains.
Most durable of the I6 Ford engine family were the later 200's. With 7 main bearings, you could spin the stock internals near 10k before it broke a sweat. Trouble is getting enough fuel/air into it. Even JC Whitney sells an intake for a 2bbl that bolts up to the 200 I6. Avoid the 250 as that's the one with integral head and intake.
Don't overlook 2dr Mavericks either, especially 70-72.
Now I love old six bangers, probably more than a lot, but REALLY? You can't be serious?
10,000 rpm. Think about that for a minute.
And BTW, many inline sixes had seven mains.
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
Most durable of the I6 Ford engine family were the later 200's. With 7 main bearings, you could spin the stock internals near 10k before it broke a sweat. Trouble is getting enough fuel/air into it. Even JC Whitney sells an intake for a 2bbl that bolts up to the 200 I6. Avoid the 250 as that's the one with integral head and intake.
Don't overlook 2dr Mavericks either, especially 70-72.
there is more to spinning high RPM's than the durability of the mains; the ford I6 is basically a TRACTOR motor: high torque, low RPM's. the long rod length is not conducive to high RPMs either.
aftermarket support for inlines is NOWHERE near what it is for a small block. you could build a 302 for A LOT less than a I6 and have a more powerful engine.
but, if you want to build a I6, go ahead, it would be cool and different. but don't do it because you think its cheaper.
Most durable of the I6 Ford engine family were the later 200's. With 7 main bearings, you could spin the stock internals near 10k before it broke a sweat. Trouble is getting enough fuel/air into it. Even JC Whitney sells an intake for a 2bbl that bolts up to the 200 I6. Avoid the 250 as that's the one with integral head and intake.
Don't overlook 2dr Mavericks either, especially 70-72.
there is more to spinning high RPM's than the durability of the mains; the ford I6 is basically a TRACTOR motor: high torque, low RPM's. the long rod length is not conducive to high RPMs either.
aftermarket support for inlines is NOWHERE near what it is for a small block. you could build a 302 for A LOT less than a I6 and have a more powerful engine.
but, if you want to build a I6, go ahead, it would be cool and different. but don't do it because you think its cheaper.
Originally Posted By: mpvue
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
Most durable of the I6 Ford engine family were the later 200's. With 7 main bearings, you could spin the stock internals near 10k before it broke a sweat. Trouble is getting enough fuel/air into it. Even JC Whitney sells an intake for a 2bbl that bolts up to the 200 I6. Avoid the 250 as that's the one with integral head and intake.
Don't overlook 2dr Mavericks either, especially 70-72.
there is more to spinning high RPM's than the durability of the mains; the ford I6 is basically a TRACTOR motor: high torque, low RPM's. the long rod length is not conducive to high RPMs either.
aftermarket support for inlines is NOWHERE near what it is for a small block. you could build a 302 for A LOT less than a I6 and have a more powerful engine.
but, if you want to build a I6, go ahead, it would be cool and different. but don't do it because you think its cheaper.
If I did it, it would indeed because I wanted to do it; not because it's cheaper.
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
Most durable of the I6 Ford engine family were the later 200's. With 7 main bearings, you could spin the stock internals near 10k before it broke a sweat. Trouble is getting enough fuel/air into it. Even JC Whitney sells an intake for a 2bbl that bolts up to the 200 I6. Avoid the 250 as that's the one with integral head and intake.
Don't overlook 2dr Mavericks either, especially 70-72.
there is more to spinning high RPM's than the durability of the mains; the ford I6 is basically a TRACTOR motor: high torque, low RPM's. the long rod length is not conducive to high RPMs either.
aftermarket support for inlines is NOWHERE near what it is for a small block. you could build a 302 for A LOT less than a I6 and have a more powerful engine.
but, if you want to build a I6, go ahead, it would be cool and different. but don't do it because you think its cheaper.
If I did it, it would indeed because I wanted to do it; not because it's cheaper.
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