Newbie Questions

[KCDoug]

Greetings to all. This appears to be a community from which I can continue to learn.

After reviewing multiple threads in this oil & filter forum I have several questions. Please bear with me if I appear redundant.

I'd like to first provide some baseline info.:

Over the past months I've scoured the web for understandable tests and reviews of oil filters. None appear to be recent, and none I found include information covering both design/build quality and a lay person synopsis of measured/or quantified filtering efficiency.

I have a '01 Maxima and a '99 Honda Odyssey. I've been vascillating about what constitutes the best filters for these well cared for daily drivers that average 18,000 highway miles/year. I define "best" in terms of my own cost-value curve: quality (build & filtering & flow) at a reasonable (my definition) cost point. For example, I am attracted to the much proclaimed quality of M1, but feel the price is too much for changing every 3,000-4,000 miles with my Dino oil. I'd like something comensurate in quality, but at a lower cost. I've tried the Champion-produced Bosche, (reasoning it to be mid-way between STP and M1, but who knows) and Purolator on the Max. Until recently I used AC Delco on the Ody, but can't find the specified unit around here anymore. Both cars have Purolator Pure Ones installed now. But, I just read in this forum that the 14620 that I self-cross referenced from the Premium 14610 (cuz a Pure One is not listed in their catalog for the Max) may develop a leak problem & would not be warranted.

And now ("about time," you gotta be saying) I submit my questions asking for your expertise and opinions:

1. Does anybody know if the Purolators still come with sting around the filter media, or any comments about the potential issue concerning the Pure One media being too packed/dense impairing flow?

2. Can anyone help me identify oversized filters that will fit on my vehicles? I believe each car has room for a longer filter.

3. This is a nagging curosity question that I would love someone with expertise/insight to clarify: Why have many cars gone to such small (tiny) oil filters?? I can't believe it would be simply for space considerations! Do they not see filter as important? (And what a pain to get a wrench to grip.)

4. Any objective evaluations on the SuperTech filters? (I've visited Edmunds as suggested, but found mostly conjectural, "it's OK-like" opinions.) My local Wally World only stocked the old blue version for my Max, and a newer black one for the Ody. The blue one's box doesn't say whether or not it has synthetic media. Either way, I wonder how the SuperTech compares -filtering-wise - to both of the Purolator models?

5. Any comments about Nissan's oem filters? I've read they are made by Nissan in USA using Mehle parts/design, but don't know if it has synthetic media. I've seen the cutaway pics, but wonder how the filtering and flow compare to M1 or Purolator Pure One. (They are realllllly small filters for the Max.)

Sorry I took so much space - I'm really curious, or maybe it's those anal perfectionist tendencies?

Thanks for taking time to read all this and for any responses.

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

For those of you looking for that oil filter report that was done awhile back, I had copied it to a word file and if you want to download it, here is the address.

Oil Filter cutaways and Reviews

 

[SteveD2]

Doug,
You're asking some questions of which it's tough to find answers. I've read that the good multi-pass oil filter test costs $750 per, none of us amateurs have had them done.

The best on-line catalog I've found is Baldwin's. I trust Baldwin, and with their extensive line of 4100 filters of all types, they're not likely to recommend just the 'closest' (but not quite) matching filter in their line to what you need. For example, here's what Baldwin says about their filter to fit your Honda:
Automotive>1999>HONDA>Odyssey>28692>B227
PART NUMBER: B227
Descriptions : Microlite Full-Flow Lube Spin-on
Contains : Anti-Drainback Valve
20 PSI By-Pass Valve
---etc---

Cross check this against some of the recommended filters from other makers.
http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/
Note that Baldwin makes the identical Hastings line (different numbers), which is often easier to find in auto parts stores.

Is there better information around? If you find some, let us all know.

Do be wary of cross-referencing a cross-reference. Often the first cross has compromises from the OEM filter, but not a problem. The second cross may have other compromises and be a problem. It's best to cross from your OEM filter number.

I recently had some not-so-pleasant exchanges with the tech department at Amsoil about filter bypass valve settings. Baldwin says that the cross for my OEM filter has a 20 psid bypass. Amsoil's recommended filter has an 8 psid bypass. Baldwin says to follow Baldwin's recommendation, not anyone else's, and Baldwin makes Amsoil's filters and supplies their cross-references. Amsoil got huffy and said, "Why did you involve Baldwin?" My answer--"Because I wanted to." I asked Amsoil why their bypass setting was OK, they didn't answer my questin, and they just said to follow their recommendation and that they stand behind it. I now use OEM filters.

Ken

 

[Al]

KC. Welcome aboard. Nissan switched to the small filter in I believe 2000. I own a 2001 Nissan Sentra and it has the dinky filter. I have used the Pure One PL 14620 with no problems. I understand where you are coming from with leakage. The PL 14620 head design is somewhat convex and comes very close to bottoming on the male threads on the engine. After careful measurement and also using magic marker on the filter mounting. I found there was **no** interference and the filter did not bottom on the threads.

I currently use the K&N HP 1010 or the Mobil M1 110. (Both are recommended for the 1999 Max.

I have used the Wix filter ($5) and as you have indicated the Bosch. The reason I use the M1 or K$N is that their wall thickness is significantly thicker than other filters and especially the Purolators. I quit using these filters (Pur) for that reason. The shells are only .009" thick !!!. Honestly if you are changing oil at 3K it really doesn't matter what filter you put in there (IMHO).

I believe the Wallly World filters are very good (Champions) but last time I checked the filter recommended for Nissans (even the 1999Max) were the very short filters.

As far as the string. I don't believe the Pure one has string around the element. Nissan makes a good filter but it is not synthetic paper.

My reasoning of value and cost benefit is slightly different from yours. At the age of 56 my time is better spent doing things other than changing filters and oil, so I go for the 10K change with a filter in between. The cost of operating and maintaining is so outrageous that oil/filter costs are less than chump change.

But to each his own. Again consider the Wix or Baldwin. Bosch is also good. I will also check, or you can to see if Wally World has a longer filter for the 1999 Max.

Later,
Al

 

[RalphPWood]

Doug,
Are you after a complicated answer to a simple question? Filters are simple. With full flow filters some are better than others but none of them clean oil. They were designed to remove only large abrasives from the full flow of oil to the bearings. There are almost no large abrasives in the lube oil of a good engine. In three thousand miles your oil is dirty and your filter is still clean. At six thousand the oil is more than twice as dirty and your filter is still clean.
My old 87 Camry has the little filter. I don't care I only change it every couple of years. I use synthetic and a Motor Guard submicronic bypass oil filter. It is a 4 cylinder so I change it every 4,000 miles and add a new qt of oil. I don't drain the oil. The Motor Guard isn't the only filter that cleans oil but the others are also submicronic bypass types.

Ralph

 

[KCDoug]

Thanks to all for your help/comments. Ralph, I am not looking for complicated answers: seems there is so much info. I've read about filters over the past couple of months that I just sort of exploded with questions here.

Cheers,
-Doug-

 

[Spector]

As noted above if you change your oil and filter every 3-4000 miles you could probably run without a filter at all and get the same longevity. It makes no difference in my opinion, use the least expensive that fits your formula.

 

[sprintman]

KCDoug
I use PureONE's. I didn't see any string when I cut open one after an Auto-Rx clean. I'd probably use the M1 filter but just not available here.