Newbie intros self and dives in....

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I'm new to BITOG and to all of this high involvement user input...but even at my age I'm still curious and so I've lurked and now joined to enter the 'game'....

Here's my story...enjoy...

Last month I got a real deal of car...not by choice but as a result of my 14yr old Altima being rear-ended and totaled, just 5k shy of its turning all those 99,999 a 2nd time....a sad day...

...but aside from my own physical shock (belt and head restraint worked!) and anger (the rear-ender high-tailed it into the unknown), I dreaded the search for its replacement...because it had to be a stick and finding one under the pressure to replace a wreck..

This was my 2nd Altima. I got it after letting the 1st, a 94-stick, go to a salesman who bought it while getting its oil changed (it's always about oil here right!?!) and I spotted the 99 with 120K fewer miles...).....both were 5-speed sticks (13 of my 15 sets of wheels were sticks) and replacing it with another stick wasn't going to be easy....so I knew I wasn't going to be picky....

...and there, at my very 1st stop shopping...where I bought the 2nd Alti...at the once-Nissan now-Toyota dealer...was the 05 Camry LE i4 J-vin 5-speed stick with 97.5k miles...a Camry stick!...I couldn't believe it.

You just don't expect a typical Florida Camry owner to be thrashing through gears...nor would you expect a gear thrasher to look to buy a CAMRY!

...but hey...that's just the car I want...a stick shift gently cared for....

A creampuff...smelled as sweet as the clutch was smooth...the dealer had replaced it after taking it in trade...replaced disk plates, and both slaves and accumulator and fluid...the whole unit..and it showed...it shifted like new and rode down the road tight as a drum....nary a squeek....all the fluids look fresh and show no leaking...

I understand dealers sell retail, but I buy wholesale...at least that has always been my buying philosophy...and it's worked on all my dealer-car purchases...

The dealer had 3 prices on it (Cars.com/ebay/and on the windshield), $800-1800 less than KBB $10k retail....so I knew they were flexible even though they had taken it in on trade a couple of weeks earlier...

Keeping to my buying strategy, I offered trade-in value for an 05 camry in "very good" nik, $6k...$4k under KBB retail...I expect the dealer paid the previous owner less than TiV (a lot less) when this much work needed to be done on the car...

They countered with TiV + $500 that I said I would accept (as a new clutch system was surely worth that...that and the new battery, new wipers, cabin air filter, alignment and new tires all of which showed up on the dealer's pre-sale workorder...) if they replaced the windshield that was heavily wiper-scratched (it's free to them as that's the law in Florida)...after a bit of give 'n go they said they would...and I did...

...driving it home only one week after the wreck...wow did I feel relieved...

1st thing I did was get the glass tinted...big difference in temp...and looks...

Next was removing the chrome tatoos from the rear end...nude looks great too...

Only a few other items needed attention...the front passenger door echoed like rain on a tin roof every time it slammed...the other doors shut with a solid thud...not that door, and it drove me crazy...so I had the inside of the outer shell sound-muted with sound-absorbing padding that had unaccounably been overlooked.

I'm still looking for 16" rims to get me more and better tread on the road...don't want/need bigger than 16s for my driving style...

The only concern I have shows up on the car-fax report that shows OCIs of 8/13/15/12k with unkown oil after the 48k warranty period...the engine is quiet and smooth with ample torque to pull away from 1k rpm with no lugging, no clicking or clanging...

...no whining from the engine, the tranny or me...still....

I'm here not so much worried as just to offer my take on how to deal with the "unknown"...which after this long tale brings me to the nuts and bolts of BITOG...

I'm planning on running the engine for 4.5k and, (assuming no burn-off or leaking...after 1.5k there's none yet), I'll drain a quart of the Toyo dealer's bulk 5-30 dino and send the sample to Blackstone...I'll refill the engine with a quart of 5-30 synthetic....

When the UOA comes back I'll have some idea what's going on inside the engine...if all is "okay" @ 5k I would expect to continue running dino since I change oil at 5K/2x a year

...But...if the report shows excessive wear that's when I'll have to decide what oil to use in that 2nd oil change...

And THEN won't you all have a time offering advice...and I look forward to it...

Meanwhile I'm enjoying all your devotion and committment to your cars...it give me high hopes you'll all be real helpful in getting Kitcam to that 2nd 199,999 turn-over

I hope all this has been a useful and an enjoyable read...

I've enjoyed yours....
 
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Wow great first post and great story

welcome2.gif


My first thought is whether that front door of yours is some sort of replacement.

Secondly, since you don't know how that engine was cared for, and you're happy to use dino, especially with 5k / 6 month ocis, then Pennzoil Conventional and a PureOne filter would be my recommendation. Although I personally would probably put in Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra. Pennzoils have the highest detergents and Ultra has the most in their range. The PureOne filter has the highest efficiency and has the capacity you need for 5k.

Elsewhere, you might consider getting fresh fluids in. Given your intention to keep this for years, perhaps Amsoil would suit you as it is typically rated to last several times longer than regular fluids.
 
The door paint matches the rest of the car perfectly I figure that the outer shell of the door was replaced (confirmed by the body shop) by Toyota before leaving the factory since the car doesn't look to have been repainted (confirmed by both indie mechanic and body shop)...just an odd oversight by Toyota...and underheard by the owner-1

owner-1 was on octogenarian (found his AAA card under the seat, and I did a net search)...he must have been a bit hard of hearing...

I feel as cars get older they should be looked at more often and more closely than when under warranty, hence the 2x/yr oil changes...just as a precautionary measure...a good time to check for other things...in Florida that is expecially important with rubber items...hoses, belts, engine mounts...

As for oils...yes Penzoil ultra/plat and PureOne filter looks good...again we'll see what the UOA shows...if dino looks clean and remains effective @5k then dino gets the nod...if not well PP/ultra will be fine...probably better for the type of driving I do in Florida...

With the new clutch we know that fluid is fresh...

I took the car to my indie mechanic who confirmed fluids look fresh, though not tested...still, the car was given a pretty good once over...and I'm feeling confident that the current fluids will last a couple of years by when, yes, all will get replaced even if only after the expected 20k miles down the road...
 
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Some of the 10K mile OCI's might be interesting if the car was stuck in traffic or supermarket dino oil was used etc. If it did mostly highway driving and was using good oil then everything should be clean.
UOA does not show sludge or varnish from previous use, you need to have a look in the sump or at the head to figure out if you have a minor case of black death. If the new oil turns black very quickly that is not such a good sign.
Just because the engine runs well and does not leak or burn oil, it does not mean it's clean inside, BUT you can sometimes see evidence of sludge looking into the fill point OR watching the sump plug flow once it is first removed.
How to remove sludge:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC-SxrsgEwo&feature=related
 
(strange today...everytime I log in and come to the thread I get logged out)

Sky...thanks for your ideas....and the video...ouch THAT'S dirty...I wish Florida still required annual checkups...

I have been checking the oil on the dipstick once a week, and now after 1500mi the oil is turning dark (I can still see through it though)...no oil reduction (still above "F"), just getting dirty...as I imagine it should.

If it gets worse/really dark by 3-4k miles, I won't even bother with an UOA...and will do the 1st oil change sooner, @ 4k, with PP (less deterg than ultra I know, but baby steps...) and for a shorter 2nd OCI of 6k mi) for the next oil change...

Again, thanks...
 
The Carfax report probably doesn't include all normal maintenance work, so I wouldn't worry too much about the OCIs it shows. If the prior owner had an oil change at JiffyLube, I can't imagine that ever finding its way to the Carfax system. If it runs well and looks pretty clean through the filler cap, I think you're in great shape.
 
Null....a LUCKY find...I wasn't looking for a Camry but for another Alti, thinking it would be cheaper at a dealer OTHER than a Nissan store...and yes kitacam is still tight as a drum...the suspension feels like right off the showroom floor.

Dan....I can only hope you're right about carfax "blanks" but I'm afraid not as the OCs that do show up are all at the same place...the local PepPoys...still...the kind of driving most people do here includes a decent amount of short I95 stints between towns...at least that's my hope...just enough to heat the car up to a good operating temp.

...the fact that it's a stick gives me hope too in that (though I'm guessing here) MTs are generally shifted at a higher RPM than are ATs...giving the engine a bit more of a workout...

Vette: I'm in the Lake Worth area...

Yes, Camry sticks are rare...which is why (as opposed to say a Corolla stick) I got it for so much less than "retail"...not much of a demographic out there of Camry stick drivers..

...it's just not the kind of wheels one would expect to be driven by someone who likes MT driving...not like Honda/Nissan/Hyundai/Kia/Corolla bangers that zip in and out of lanes as if in a video-game....given a choice of a "boring" Camry or one of those I would pick the Cam anyday.

Boring is in quotes 'cause it ain't....not to look at, not to look out of, and at least with the stick, not to drive...

I'm looking to enjoy Kitacam for a good long time...
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
...you can sometimes see evidence of sludge looking into the fill point.


Following up another's thread I decided to take a shot under the filler cap and post here to ask what you folks see...


I have no knowledge what to look for...so I ask if what you see gives you any idea how the oil did for owner-1...I'm o-2 for the past 6 weeks (since 97.5k miles)

Thank you for taking time to comment...


incp.jpg
 
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