New used mower problem.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 20, 2003
Messages
23,713
Location
NE,Ohio
So, I couldnt swing a new mower with purchasing a house this month.

Trolled the craigslist for a couple weeks bunch of junk for 50-100$ or worn out nice ones for 200$


Finally today someone popped up a 5 year old craftman 6.5hp briggs(I think) with the ez-walk self propel for..... 20$


Only problem(s) are

1.it takes about 6x priming to start on first pull runs stong.
2. The self propel system. Only drives the right rear wheel.
3. I'm thinking a transmission problem?

any ideas?

Its aprox 5-6 years old and single speed "EZ-WALK"

It had a battery and electric start but its been removed.

I have no problems using as-is for a few mowings but no self propel will get old fast on my inclined(not really hilly) yard.

picked it up at 8pm tonight.

I'll probably tear into it tomorrow. Any tips from the pros?
 
Last edited:
The drive problem might just need a replacement wheel. I believe the wheels have a plastic cog around the inside that the axle uses to propel the mower. The cog inside the wheel can strip. It's pretty common to fail. You would have to remove the rear wheel to inspect if that was the problem.
 
If the priming thing is a real issue the primer bulb is likely just worn out too, not making a perfect seal, so its not fully operating. They can be pretty easily popped out and a new one pressed in but, depends if you can get the part, I've had issues where they only want to sell a full carb kit of accessories and seals I didn't need. FFeng7 is probably spot on about the assist though. Find yourself a small engine shop, walk in, say you have one wheel not turning. The guy at the counter will probably not have to leave his seat to find you the part.
 
Sounds like the same mower my folks have. Agree about the wheel, both of theirs wore out and replacing both resolved the problem.
 
Get an 'E-Z' start spark plug.This plug uses a very thin wire center electrode.The thin electrode makes a hotter spark.
 
Agree with all of the above. You might want to check to make sure no water in fuel tank, (not saying that's your problem with starting, but it's good to check for down the road). Also, if the tranny is belt driven and has a cover, check for grass and dirt build up under the cover as this can cause the belt to jump off during operation.

I would also remove all the wheels and grease the axles then reinstall wheels - it will roll better. Clean or replace the air filter, sharpen and balance the blade and you're good to go.
 
No idea about the drive, but if you order a new carb diaphram and primer bulb i'm sure your starting problems will straighten out. Cheap off ebay, just get the right one for your carb, and simple to replace.
 
The carb mounting face for the air filter and primer bulb housing may be warped, causing an air leak in the priming pathway. If so, the common solution is to double the gasket there (or file the face flat again).
 
YouTube has plenty of videos about how to rebuild the carb of B&S.

I did not search but YouTube might have some videos about the self propelled section of your mower.
 
Many shops will have a container with 10 sections of various size priming bulbs. You can just get another one by size rather than engine or carb model.

I have a priming bulb fail on a leaf vacuum and it leaked gas all over.
 
If its FWD, it is a solid axle (non diff). So FFeng7 is correct about a bad front wheel. Sometimes the retainer holding the small drive gear in there just pops off. To add to what TooManyWheels said, sometimes, the carb mounting face just works loose and just needs to be cinched down. If it is an L- head, it is most likely this. IIRC, OHV's do not have a primer. I have to admit, I'll pick up any mower I see laid out for trash. 99% of the time it has a fuel/air filter issue. Does the primer feel like it is drawing air or does it feel like you are pushing a good about of fuel when priming? If air is the answer, the carb mounting face is a likely cause.
 
My Toro GTS (Guaranteed To Start) owner's manual claims you only have to push the primer bulb 3x, but I've found it starts most reliably with 5x or 6x. Done this since brand new.
 
Last edited:
its RWD, the engine runs fine .. not touching the carb.

I will continue to just prime 6x was just wondering what it could be. If it gets worse I'll try replacing the primer bulb.

its one of those with the hole in the center that you cover up with your thumb.


And someone guessed correctly..
Look what I found
smile.gif


2013-05-05%2010.25.55.jpg


so it looks like my 20$ mower is getting some 12.99$ wheels
(probably just replace both)
 
Last edited:
While you are at it (Rand), also consider the following:

(1) add an inline mesh filter similar to this:

(B&S part: 298090)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Briggs-Stratto...=item257038a0b2

(2) consider inspecting and draining your carb fuel bowl for once to rid of any debris and such. YOu have to watch out for possible swollen seal though, so you will have to replace them with a service kit:

search B&S498260, but some places sell just the O-ring kit sand needles, seats, etc.

Other than the fact that mine too, requires 6x priming, everything works fine on my craftsman (B&S675 series) mower and it's well into it's 8th year of mowing now.

Q.
Q.
 
I usually do a fuel on/off valve/switch and filter but I havent checked to see what I have to work with yet.

got a new wheel made even cheaper than the last one.

they had some much nicer black wheels with full roller bearings.

I ALMOST bought those but 2x21.99 vs 1x14.99

then I got home and realized the old wheel measures 7.6" and the new wheel is 8" Probably shouldnt been that cheap and done both.

but The mower was 20$ didnt really want to drop 30$ on 2 wheels.

Still seems to track straight.

All in all.. I'm very happy with the purchase.. mows like a champ. Mulcher /bagging.. it has the side discharge plug but not the "spout"

Couldnt find any grease then I remembered packing a mini tube of sil-grease (for trailer hitch balls)

Boom greased all the shafts and it rolls better now.

dry metal on metal shafts are kinda...friction-y
 
Last edited:
Just mowed with it again.. workin good. Best mower I've used in years.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom