72 x 24 HD with the height-adjustable top.Is that the "heavy duty?" 72"? How deep?
I like the blue
I see Husky offers a 96". That'd be sweet.
I was on the fence about the blue until I unboxed it.
72 x 24 HD with the height-adjustable top.Is that the "heavy duty?" 72"? How deep?
I like the blue
I see Husky offers a 96". That'd be sweet.
I love your photo! Is that a rusty truck bed?I recently needed a 33mm shallow socket in 1/2" dr and didn't have one.
I got on Tekton's site and ordered 33, 34, 35 and 36mm and 1-5/16" View attachment 348983
That's my neighbor's '85 K20 tailgate. That truck is receiving a new wiper switch and signal stalk. Gotta say....I'm glad steering columns have become a little more modular in recent times. The old Saginaw columns seem unnecessarily complicated and they're kind of crude.I love your photo! Is that a rusty truck bed?
From what I can gather, think of these as nut/bolt runners, and not as impact tools to remove fasteners. Use hand force to loosen the fastener, then let the power do the rest.Three-eights drive, cordless ratchet. I know pretty much nothing about these things, other than I see videos of other gearheads using them. I don't know which are good and which or meh, but Milwaukee Fuel appears to be the weapon of choice. I have zero experience using cordless hand tools; I've used pneumatic ratchets before and avoided them, especially when tightening fasteners - knuckle busters.
View attachment 349319
Getting access to the fastener appears the be the main issue, once you're on it the tool does the rest. With manual ratchets, you need to consider handle "swing" (I'm looking at you, Toyota).
Start at 8:33 for complaints on kickback on the one new Milwaukee ratchet. It doesn't look like you have this model, thoughThree-eights drive, cordless ratchet. I know pretty much nothing about these things, other than I see videos of other gearheads using them. I don't know which are good and which or meh, but Milwaukee Fuel appears to be the weapon of choice. I have zero experience using cordless hand tools; I've used pneumatic ratchets before and avoided them, especially when tightening fasteners - knuckle busters.
View attachment 349319
Getting access to the fastener appears the be the main issue, once you're on it the tool does the rest. With manual ratchets, you need to consider handle "swing" (I'm looking at you, Toyota).
Start at 8:33 for complaints on kickback on the one new Milwaukee ratchet. It doesn't look like you have this model, though
Looks like something else i now have to buy!
That is super tidy!
What’s the point/purpose of the double joints?Recently I found myself wanting some "double X" pliers but NOT needle nose. This is surprisingly difficult to find.
I stumbled on these cheap imports. They look better than expected but I don't have a real world use at this moment to test function. View attachment 346745View attachment 346746
That’s an expensive decal on that plate !View attachment 349823View attachment 349824
View attachment 349826
Now I can really get my manifold flat!
Not really understanding these in terms of cost. Great tools bone dry N2 testing, ideally with a bit of refrigerant as a sniffer gas.I was looking at that kit. Debating between that one or the CPS Nitrokitg.
I’m sure it was. But it’s obsolete now. Cane imagine they go out of spec though, at least for my use.That’s an expensive decal on that plate !
So you don't have to open the handles as far to get the jaws open - they can reach deeper.What’s the point/purpose of the double joints?
Yeah - I had started a collection until I realized there were very good brand options for allot less - no doubt a quality item you have there …I’m sure it was. But it’s obsolete now. Cane imagine they go out of spec though, at least for my use.
Convenience of plug and play, but I agree with you.Not really understanding these in terms of cost. Great tools bone dry N2 testing, ideally with a bit of refrigerant as a sniffer gas.
There are a million nitrogen regulators out there. Used, new. eBay has all kinds from $41-100+. Regulators have female threads.
I can’t imagine an extra valve or two and another gauge would be worth so much that it justifies a $275 price tag…