New tool thread

All I wanted was the crank holder. Everything else was just there. I know the sq drive to extend length is awkward, but considering I may use it once or twice, I can get by.
I get that, for water pumps on the EA888 engines I usually just hold the crank bolt with a 24mm socket and crack the small 12mm head WP pulley bolt with a slightly modified 12pt 12mm wrench. The crank bolt will never loosen removing that little L/h thread bolt, that crank bolt is nut busting tight.

The wrench looks like this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1774069124...Pt3B5sUczH0PmDEjNO7XTxSNkv17C-DoaAkdbEALw_wcB
 
What Allen wrenches will you stock in there ?
From these holders that nearly send me to a padded room
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To this. They're magnetic and rotate with detents, like a revolver
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14” two-piece Supercar Wheel Cribs from Race Ramps. I figured it is now or never since their manufacturing facility burned down in a fire this year.

View attachment 316174

Snap On RIPLMS14C. These were originally developed for Subaru Front Brake Caliper Bracket bolts but they recently began offering additional sizes. I think the 14mm will be useful for some hub/wheel bearing bolts.
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Good point! If they did 12mm/12pt and 14mm/12pt, now you're cooking with gas for lots of older CDJR wb assys....
 
14” two-piece Supercar Wheel Cribs from Race Ramps. I figured it is now or never since their manufacturing facility burned down in a fire this year.

View attachment 316174

Snap On RIPLMS14C. These were originally developed for Subaru Front Brake Caliper Bracket bolts but they recently began offering additional sizes. I think the 14mm will be useful for some hub/wheel bearing bolts.
View attachment 316175
What are you using the cribs for? Would wood cribbing be stronger/last longer?
 
What are you using the cribs for? Would wood cribbing be stronger/last longer?
Tightening suspension parts at normal ride height. Lifting vehicles where lift points are difficult to access.

Wood cribbing is definitely less expensive, but these are easier to store and are fairly durable.
 
I recently got the HF version of this weird ratchet but it sent me down the rabbit hole of wanting the NLA Husky 65506, shown here from ebay.

The Husky has a thinner head, which I think is good.
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The action was terrible and upon disassembly I found it was DRY-dry. I didn't have any SuperLube but used this Starrett oil. Works great for now -- can't speak to longevity.

Once upon a time I had the Snappy tool for the reversing ball, but couldn't find it so fashioned one from shim stock.
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And yeah, I realize these aren't terribly practical and I'll rarely -- if ever -- truly need one.
 
Tightening suspension parts at normal ride height. Lifting vehicles where lift points are difficult to access.

Wood cribbing is definitely less expensive, but these are easier to store and are fairly durable.
So, I’ve thought about that on occasion. Thing is, after you lift the vehicle to get it up on them, then the wheels aren’t sitting at the same angles that they normally do. Kind of need to roll back and forth to get it right.
 
So, I’ve thought about that on occasion. Thing is, after you lift the vehicle to get it up on them, then the wheels aren’t sitting at the same angles that they normally do. Kind of need to roll back and forth to get it right.
I think the jouncing the suspension a few times should get you fairly close.
 
For Christmas my buddy gave me this vintage T-bevel and this homebrew oil filter strap wrench with seat belt strapping. He swears it's the best oil filter tool ever.

I appreciate it and he had to get creative because it's pretty difficult to find a tool I don't have (I have aluminum Empire version of the square)
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