See 1st post in this thread:Do you have a picture or a link to this tool?
Thanks!See 1st post in this thread:
Here are some of my 2022 SEMA Show Tool Observations: ASTRO: Always developing new items had a prototype flex head ratcheting flex head handle for 3/8 drive Nano sockets. This will give you the offset many of you crave in an extra long flex head wrench but, in a stronger handle format. Using...www.garagejournal.com
Oh buddy you better have your SnapOn flame suit on. Lots of Toyota lovers here (I'm indifferent personally). Are those SnapOn socks flame resistant? Watch out!!!I want too but I’m not opposed to other brands. Just no more Toyota’s after I’ve seen their lack of warranty support on our car and customers cars.
What do you think of the $27 Astro Subaru puller?CTA Subie BJ puller. This has been on my hit list for awhile. I don't actually have a specific job for it this second but I service a few You-Are-A-Bus (es) and just wanted to have it on hand.
I considered the AP version but by all accounts on Amazon reviews the AP breaks a "pin" quite often. I've seen the AP tool but don't recall the exact construction now....
Astro = Astro Pneumatic = AP
Interesting. I've got an old Motive I haven't used in decades. It's effective but clunky, seems to take forever to setup and I've never found a way to store it that I liked.Last Friday, I found myself in a bit of a conundrum...
The week prior, I'd done a brake job on a '12 Impala Limited (old body style). Front pads and rotors, rear pads/rotors/calipers. Fast forward a week, and the customer is back complaining of no brake pedal and a brake warning light.
While said customer kept his cool, he was rightfully upset. He'd spent well over $2k with me for the aforementioned brake job, the rest consisting of replacing the rear struts and links and an alignment. Upon inspection, I found one of the rear calipers leaking from the piston seal after less than 150 miles.
After replacing said caliper, I couldn't for the life of me get the system to bleed. The customer had run the master cylinder dry, so there was air trapped all the way from the master to the rear. I tried vacuum bleeding, ABS bleeding, everything. Nothing worked.
Thanks to handy dandy Identifix, I came across a bulletin from GM regarding my exact issue. Apparently, due to the fact that the lines from the master cylinder to the ABS module curve ABOVE the rim of the master, air gets trapped and can't be bled by any other means than a pressure bleeder.
Enter: the MityVac MV6840. Expensive, yes. But it bled the lines in 10 minutes and the car was good as new. I hadn't used a pressure bleeder since college, but I'll be keeping this bad boy around.