New tool thread

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key largo,fl
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Joined
May 30, 2010
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North Carolina
Kaiweets 208d A/C- D/C clamp meter.

I wanted an inrush meter to measure what my startup draw currents are when running my house on a small generator. So I know what I should or shouldn't run together with too much starting amp draw.
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Joined
Jan 31, 2006
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Idaho
Do you have a picture or a link to this tool?
See 1st post in this thread:
 
Joined
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NY
See 1st post in this thread:
Thanks!
 

AutoMechanic

Site Donor 2023
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Roanoke Virginia
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Milwaukee grease gun. Rural King had them for $199 I think it was as an early Black Friday type of sale. My mom got this for me and I really do appreciate it very much. This one already feels a lot better than our Flexzilla which is ok but they have a problem about not releasing the grease cartridges so we gave up on it cause the button sticks and it’s the second one we had so I have wanted this for a long time. We went to Rural King and mom put it in the buggy and asked if I still wanted it and I was like yeah but I need to wait till the rest of my tool bills get paid down and calm down my addiction of buying license plates. She is like no you don’t, don’t worry about it you have to buy enough of your tools and I know you have wanted this for awhile and you wanted it to begin with. Free tools are always the best tools lol. I try not to get crazy with my tool buying anymore because I came to realize I got ahead of myself. I am able to pay the bill regularly but I let it go way over the amount I wanted for both Snap-on and Matco and I don’t really have much money to do the things I want to do and buy what I want to buy. Fortunately I’ve used all my tools but instead of buying it to have I’ll just wait to buy it if I need it. I’m also really glad I didn’t take the peer pressure from my coworkers and decide to buy the Snap-on box. I couldn’t do it I told myself no. My next priority will be a car.

Now that I see HF has the colors out for the new side lockers I see an orange one in the future lol. It’s much needed and has been for awhile. I need to expand my “giant pumpkin” as my coworkers call it lol.
 

D60

Joined
Nov 6, 2017
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Colo
These 19" Homak RS Pro side lockers are surprisingly nice. I own two.

I think they've been discontinued in favor of a 22" version that sells for significantly more, but here's an ebay seller at $370 shipped and he appears to have most colors.

Not my auction but I reco these lockers:
 

D60

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Nov 6, 2017
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1,613
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Colo
CTA Subie BJ puller. This has been on my hit list for awhile. I don't actually have a specific job for it this second but I service a few You-Are-A-Bus (es) and just wanted to have it on hand.

I considered the AP version but by all accounts on Amazon reviews the AP breaks a "pin" quite often. I've seen the AP tool but don't recall the exact construction now....
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Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
4,049
Location
Idaho
CTA Subie BJ puller. This has been on my hit list for awhile. I don't actually have a specific job for it this second but I service a few You-Are-A-Bus (es) and just wanted to have it on hand.

I considered the AP version but by all accounts on Amazon reviews the AP breaks a "pin" quite often. I've seen the AP tool but don't recall the exact construction now....
What do you think of the $27 Astro Subaru puller?

 

D60

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Astro = Astro Pneumatic = AP

Looking again at your link, these reviews aren't that prevalent but I recall last time I looked there was more than one.
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I also seem to recall some users jumping ship to the CTA and saying it was far more robust, but again my memory may be flawed and I'm not going to take the time to provide citations for my arguably questionable memory. Each consumer should do their own research.

I wound up ordering the CTA from Auto Tool World for a grand total of $51.77 which included $9.55 in shipping. Google gave me a 5% code when I was searching the CTA part #. The whole thing wound up ~$5+ less than Amazon
 
Joined
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Last Friday, I found myself in a bit of a conundrum...

The week prior, I'd done a brake job on a '12 Impala Limited (old body style). Front pads and rotors, rear pads/rotors/calipers. Fast forward a week, and the customer is back complaining of no brake pedal and a brake warning light.

While said customer kept his cool, he was rightfully upset. He'd spent well over $2k with me for the aforementioned brake job, the rest consisting of replacing the rear struts and links and an alignment. Upon inspection, I found one of the rear calipers leaking from the piston seal after less than 150 miles.

After replacing said caliper, I couldn't for the life of me get the system to bleed. The customer had run the master cylinder dry, so there was air trapped all the way from the master to the rear. I tried vacuum bleeding, ABS bleeding, everything. Nothing worked.

Thanks to handy dandy Identifix, I came across a bulletin from GM regarding my exact issue. Apparently, due to the fact that the lines from the master cylinder to the ABS module curve ABOVE the rim of the master, air gets trapped and can't be bled by any other means than a pressure bleeder.

Enter: the MityVac MV6840. Expensive, yes. But it bled the lines in 10 minutes and the car was good as new. I hadn't used a pressure bleeder since college, but I'll be keeping this bad boy around.
 

D60

Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
1,613
Location
Colo
Last Friday, I found myself in a bit of a conundrum...

The week prior, I'd done a brake job on a '12 Impala Limited (old body style). Front pads and rotors, rear pads/rotors/calipers. Fast forward a week, and the customer is back complaining of no brake pedal and a brake warning light.

While said customer kept his cool, he was rightfully upset. He'd spent well over $2k with me for the aforementioned brake job, the rest consisting of replacing the rear struts and links and an alignment. Upon inspection, I found one of the rear calipers leaking from the piston seal after less than 150 miles.

After replacing said caliper, I couldn't for the life of me get the system to bleed. The customer had run the master cylinder dry, so there was air trapped all the way from the master to the rear. I tried vacuum bleeding, ABS bleeding, everything. Nothing worked.

Thanks to handy dandy Identifix, I came across a bulletin from GM regarding my exact issue. Apparently, due to the fact that the lines from the master cylinder to the ABS module curve ABOVE the rim of the master, air gets trapped and can't be bled by any other means than a pressure bleeder.

Enter: the MityVac MV6840. Expensive, yes. But it bled the lines in 10 minutes and the car was good as new. I hadn't used a pressure bleeder since college, but I'll be keeping this bad boy around.
Interesting. I've got an old Motive I haven't used in decades. It's effective but clunky, seems to take forever to setup and I've never found a way to store it that I liked.
 
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