First off, I know just about anything will work fine in this engine. The car is 3.0L V6 with 103,000 miles. I purchased it from a family member who always serviced according to the manual at a ford dealership. So it's been a steady diet of Motorcraft 5w-20 blend. I'm thinking of just going with Mobil 1 and trying to go 10-12K intervals. Car will be 90% highway miles at 80mph. Does this sound reasonable? How is the 3.0L on oil? is it easy on it like most Ford engines or is there potential for Sludge? I plan on running this car for at least 250K which I think is totally doable.
New to me 2011 Ford Fusion to oil ideas
- Thread starter GOPHER FREAK
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Your plan is good. Don't short trip the vehicle and don't take longer than a year to put the 12,000 miles on it.
I think I would continue to use the oil/filter that got the engine to 106,00 miles. Ed
I have been doing 10K OCIs in my 2007 Fusion 2.3 for nearly the life of the vehicle with M1 0-20AFE. To date, this engine uses no oil at my normal 10K OCI, shows no sign of engine wear, remains like new clean. If you want, I will send a pic of the valve train when I replaced the VC a few months ago.
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I am an old foggy & have a hard time with the long oil / filter change cycles . What does your owner's manual require ?
A few things I suggest you think about .
The oil filter traps some of the contaminants . But some are in suspension in the oil . Plus , if you push it too far & the filter starts to clog up , you can reach a point where the oil system starts to by pass the filter ( on many / most cars ) . This means some / all the oil is not being filtered .
Now , when you change the oil / filter , you get a fresh new filter , ready to do its job . And when you drain the old oil , it is a little bit like flushing the toilet . You get rid of the contaminants that are held in suspension .
You are also refreshing the additives the oil also contains .
Next thing is coast per mile . Set up a simple spreadsheet , calculating the cost per mile if you change oil every 5,000 , 10,000 and 15,000 miles . Also , calculate cost per year .
Now compare the cost per mile for the combined total of insurance , inspections , registration , tires , fuel , other fluids , hoses , windshield wiper blades , car wash , belts , other maintenance and depreciation .
I will bet the cost per mile for oil / filter changes is pretty small compared to the other cost of ownership , per mile .
I personally think the cost of oil / filter change turns out to be pretty cheap insurance .
BUT , if you insist on the long oil change interval , at least change the filter a couple of times along the way .
This is my opinion . To those that disagree , , have mercy on me . I am just an old fat redneck stuck in the past .
God bless
Wyr
A few things I suggest you think about .
The oil filter traps some of the contaminants . But some are in suspension in the oil . Plus , if you push it too far & the filter starts to clog up , you can reach a point where the oil system starts to by pass the filter ( on many / most cars ) . This means some / all the oil is not being filtered .
Now , when you change the oil / filter , you get a fresh new filter , ready to do its job . And when you drain the old oil , it is a little bit like flushing the toilet . You get rid of the contaminants that are held in suspension .
You are also refreshing the additives the oil also contains .
Next thing is coast per mile . Set up a simple spreadsheet , calculating the cost per mile if you change oil every 5,000 , 10,000 and 15,000 miles . Also , calculate cost per year .
Now compare the cost per mile for the combined total of insurance , inspections , registration , tires , fuel , other fluids , hoses , windshield wiper blades , car wash , belts , other maintenance and depreciation .
I will bet the cost per mile for oil / filter changes is pretty small compared to the other cost of ownership , per mile .
I personally think the cost of oil / filter change turns out to be pretty cheap insurance .
BUT , if you insist on the long oil change interval , at least change the filter a couple of times along the way .
This is my opinion . To those that disagree , , have mercy on me . I am just an old fat redneck stuck in the past .
God bless
Wyr
Originally Posted By: tig1
I have been doing 10K OCIs in my 2007 Fusion 2.3 for nearly the life of the vehicle with M1 0-20AFE. To date, this engine uses no oil at my normal 10K OCI, shows no sign of engine wear, remains like new clean.
That's impressive considering the climate your operating in.
Also, 204k miles is equivalent to 326k kms!
considering it still doesn't consume anything.
I have been doing 10K OCIs in my 2007 Fusion 2.3 for nearly the life of the vehicle with M1 0-20AFE. To date, this engine uses no oil at my normal 10K OCI, shows no sign of engine wear, remains like new clean.
That's impressive considering the climate your operating in.
Also, 204k miles is equivalent to 326k kms!
Gopher, I don't see the purpose in buying/using M1 oils UNLESS 10-12K mile OCI are on your radar. I'm more of a less expensive oil and 5-7K mile OCI kind of guy myself.
I don't know anything about this particular 3.0L, but IMO, Fusions make the ideal used car. They seem to be very tough and hold up well. Even in the rust belt.
I don't know anything about this particular 3.0L, but IMO, Fusions make the ideal used car. They seem to be very tough and hold up well. Even in the rust belt.
Originally Posted By: JTK
Gopher, I don't see the purpose in buying/using M1 oils UNLESS 10-12K mile OCI are on your radar. I'm more of a less expensive oil and 5-7K mile OCI kind of guy myself.
I don't know anything about this particular 3.0L, but IMO, Fusions make the ideal used car. They seem to be very tough and hold up well. Even in the rust belt.
Yeah, I'm impressed with the fusion. I got it for a song as it's had issues with electronic power steering (3 issues in a year resolved by restarting the car) so I know I've got to put a rack into it eventually ($800 part and an afternoon). They had a lot of trouble with the steering on 2011-12 fusions. NHSTA just opened an investagation into the 2011's so I'm hoping it's eventually recalled like the 2012's were. But for $3500 I feel I did okay. Car is cosmetically perfect and runs great.
Gopher, I don't see the purpose in buying/using M1 oils UNLESS 10-12K mile OCI are on your radar. I'm more of a less expensive oil and 5-7K mile OCI kind of guy myself.
I don't know anything about this particular 3.0L, but IMO, Fusions make the ideal used car. They seem to be very tough and hold up well. Even in the rust belt.
Yeah, I'm impressed with the fusion. I got it for a song as it's had issues with electronic power steering (3 issues in a year resolved by restarting the car) so I know I've got to put a rack into it eventually ($800 part and an afternoon). They had a lot of trouble with the steering on 2011-12 fusions. NHSTA just opened an investagation into the 2011's so I'm hoping it's eventually recalled like the 2012's were. But for $3500 I feel I did okay. Car is cosmetically perfect and runs great.
I'd skip the M1 as I've never been happy with the start-up noise I get with M1. If this engine is quiet on cold start with M1, it obviously does not care. My cars seem to care ...
I'd run a premium syn-blend like Maxlife and I'd see if I could find an oversized filter for the extra media area. Then run it for a year at time and cruise on
Gotta get under there once in while to make sure all is OK ...
BTW - that is a really nice ride. One of Fords better ideas. Comfy and pretty quick
I'd run a premium syn-blend like Maxlife and I'd see if I could find an oversized filter for the extra media area. Then run it for a year at time and cruise on
Gotta get under there once in while to make sure all is OK ...
BTW - that is a really nice ride. One of Fords better ideas. Comfy and pretty quick
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