New Telluride - Mobil 1 HM?

Messages
4,726
Location
Ca.
I totally agree with an early change. Real data to show that has positive benefits down the road (longevity).

I use the M1 10w30 HM in several (basically all) cars - out to 7,500. NA, turbo, and Turbo GDI. Have done UOA to test it and it's been fine, including in the turbo GDI.

Can you share that data?

I used to do the same thing and was surprised when Honda gave specific instruction NOT to change early as apparently they have for decades.
They want the factory fill to stay in the entire normal OCI as it contained lots of moly from the assembly lube.

Curious what the kia manual calls for?
 
Messages
122
Location
MD
Probably, (and most likely) the answer is the additional additives don't make a lick of difference in the long run and it's just a way to get more shelf space or cater to more potential buyers. I don't subscribe to the theory that a HM oil will make any engine last longer, BUT at least in my experience, they can sometimes slow an oil seep or help curb consumption. Maybe the key there is a slightly thicker viscosity? In which case, stepping up a grade would likely accomplish the same thing? 🤷‍♂️
This has always been my thought. I'd understand it if it didn't meet specs, but if it does, then what's really the difference and why isn't everything formulated that way? It has to be marketing. That's the only thing that makes sense.

You'll notice I'm running HM oil in both the vehicles in my signature. I got these at a cheaper price than the regular variety of each so I went with it. I'm going to do a UOA on each in the next couple weeks to see if there is really much difference in the reports (not that that's the whole story but it's something...).
 

scm

Messages
38
Location
Houston, Texas
No - but I didn't get any discounts or incentives either. I lucked out - the model we saw had just arrived so it still had the original MSRP sticker on it. The dealer wanted to mark it up but I told them I wasn't paying a different price than what printed on the sticker. I did get the dealer to include some accessories though.
As a Hyundai person, I’ve never understood how the hell Kia gets sold above MSRP all day long... yet I can usually always spot it’s Hyundai sibling with some type of promotion. Either way - excellent choice of vehicle!!

As to your question - you could go either way, but my personal choice would be to run Vanilla M1 for the time being in both vehicles. I personally don’t use high mileage oil outside of severely neglected vehicles that need some extra TLC and are just a complete dumpster fire. My ‘02 Santa Fe gets regular synthetic at 150K+ Miles, but that’s just me.
 
Messages
142
Location
Massachusetts
No reason not to run any oil brand/type you want. The HM oil is a great choice.

Only recommendations I make are an early 1k break-in oil/filter change out and no overly extended intervals.... Kia/Hyundai don't have the best engine reputation. I wouldn't go 7500 miles on the oil, regardless of the fancy marketing.

Exercise the warranty for every issue. Kia/Hyundai has learned a thing or two about taking care of customers and will take care of almost anything.
If it's GDI I wouldn't even go beyond 6000 and that might be pushing it. I've never gone beyond 5500 and even at 3500 it comes out filled with black soot so thick I can easily see soot on a paper towel from wiping the dipstick. You'd think I was running a **** diesel.
 
Messages
122
Location
MD
If it's GDI I wouldn't even go beyond 6000 and that might be pushing it. I've never gone beyond 5500 and even at 3500 it comes out filled with black soot so thick I can easily see soot on a paper towel from wiping the dipstick. You'd think I was running a **** diesel.
I currently have 3 GDI engines (2 of them with turbos) and have had an additional 2 GDI (one of them with a turbo) in the past and have never had this problem, even going 7.5K - 10K miles. UOAs also come back perfectly fine. GDI does not automatically equal excessive amounts of soot in the oil. That being said, I'd definitely keep it short until the specific engine/oil combo can be shown to be able to go longer.
 
Messages
142
Location
Massachusetts
I currently have 3 GDI engines (2 of them with turbos) and have had an additional 2 GDI (one of them with a turbo) in the past and have never had this problem, even going 7.5K - 10K miles. UOAs also come back perfectly fine. GDI does not automatically equal excessive amounts of soot in the oil. That being said, I'd definitely keep it short until the specific engine/oil combo can be shown to be able to go longer.
My engine barely holds 3.8 quarts so maybe that factors into it.
 
Messages
122
Location
MD
My engine barely holds 3.8 quarts so maybe that factors into it.
Yeah, maybe. That's not a lot of oil. All of mine have held between 5 and 6 quarts. I'm sure engine design is also pretty important. That's why I said I'd always start with a short OCI and work it up from there when dealing with direct injection.
 
Messages
129
Location
Virginia
I've had good luck in my KIA so far with Valvoline Advanced Synthetic in 5w30 grade. Not sure if it checks all the boxes as per KIA's recommendations for your particular engine, though.
 
Messages
129
Location
Virginia
As a Hyundai person, I’ve never understood how the hell Kia gets sold above MSRP all day long... yet I can usually always spot it’s Hyundai sibling with some type of promotion.
I've wondered the same thing -- in the case of the Telluride, its Hyundai sibling, the Palisade, seems to get dissed by comparison. From reporting I've read about the two, there seems to be a difference in the fit/finish department somehow -- the Telluride gets the nod for its upholstery and cockpit finish while the Palisade comes off as the poorer relation usually. Having seen and driven both vehicles, I honestly don't feel much of a difference in that particular aspect. A heavily discounted Palisade might end up being an excellent value down the road for those interested.
 
Messages
16,283
Location
N.H, U.S.A.
I've had good luck in my KIA so far with Valvoline Advanced Synthetic in 5w30 grade. Not sure if it checks all the boxes as per KIA's recommendations for your particular engine, though.
I would agree, This is the best 5W30 on the market in my trials - nothing comes close.
Caveat Emptor: VAS may have been reformed the advent of GF-6.

Run what you like. I have only been a fan of Mobil Clean 5000 a decades ago- that's about it. Never Impressed with M1.

- Ken
 
Messages
24,727
Location
Dallas,Tx USA
I would agree, This is the best 5W30 on the market in my trials - nothing comes close.
Caveat Emptor: VAS may have been reformed the advent of GF-6.

Run what you like. I have only been a fan of Mobil Clean 5000 a decades ago- that's about it. Never Impressed with M1.

- Ken
Hey Ken,was it you or someone else who liked the Magnatec full synth? I’ve been thinking about giving it a go and I can’t remember who it was that said they really liked it.
 
Messages
16,283
Location
N.H, U.S.A.
I totally agree with an early change. Real data to show that has positive benefits down the road (longevity).

I use the M1 10w30 HM in several (basically all) cars - out to 7,500. NA, turbo, and Turbo GDI. Have done UOA to test it and it's been fine, including in the turbo GDI.
What data? Never seen it here and you would think it would show up.
If you are talking UOA PPM wear materials - that's not a big issue with a moderate efficiency oil filter.
I would go at least 2.5K miles MINIMUM with the factory fill and a bit further if you put on over 1500 a month.
I've NEVER seen benefits from early first sump OCI, only downsides; and I have a large SS of over 70 new vehicles under my belt.

So, I changed my tune in this regard. Over changing oil is not as many say, "Cheap Insurance" - its of NO realised benefit.

I say: Leave it. But of course the choice is yours :)
 
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Messages
16,283
Location
N.H, U.S.A.
Hey Ken,was it you or someone else who liked the Magnatec full synth? I’ve been thinking about giving it a go and I can’t remember who it was that said they really liked it.
I Liked the SS when it first came out for use in my Noisey Nissan - It was performing so well I didnt want to change it - even when it was overdue!

How often does ANYBODY say that around here? :)

I didn't like the new full synthetic version, In fact I ran it RIGHT after the SS version so I had a good back-to-back comp.
I do like the full syn as a top off oil - especially to quiet a noisy sump.
The Valvoline Advanced walks all over the Maggie in all regards and aspects of " good oil" - except for ultimate engine quietness.

- Ken
 

CKN

Messages
6,583
Location
Utah
As a Hyundai person, I’ve never understood how the hell Kia gets sold above MSRP all day long... yet I can usually always spot it’s Hyundai sibling with some type of promotion. Either way - excellent choice of vehicle!!

As to your question - you could go either way, but my personal choice would be to run Vanilla M1 for the time being in both vehicles. I personally don’t use high mileage oil outside of severely neglected vehicles that need some extra TLC and are just a complete dumpster fire. My ‘02 Santa Fe gets regular synthetic at 150K+ Miles, but that’s just me.
The Kia Telluride is competitive at or near the MSRP-that's why there are little to no discounts.
 
Messages
122
Location
MD
I've wondered the same thing -- in the case of the Telluride, its Hyundai sibling, the Palisade, seems to get dissed by comparison. From reporting I've read about the two, there seems to be a difference in the fit/finish department somehow -- the Telluride gets the nod for its upholstery and cockpit finish while the Palisade comes off as the poorer relation usually. Having seen and driven both vehicles, I honestly don't feel much of a difference in that particular aspect. A heavily discounted Palisade might end up being an excellent value down the road for those interested.
IIRC, the fit and finish were a big difference (to some people) but the suspensions were also tuned differently. The KIA had a nimbler, more maneuverable feel to it (whatever that means for such a large vehicle).
 
Messages
441
Location
New York Queens
Just purchased a new Kia Telluride for the family. It's the first vehicle we've ever purchased new, and we are really enjoying the car so far. Any reason to not use Mobil 1 HM 5W30 in this? The owner's manual states ACEA A5 or above (*whatever "above" means), which HM does meet according to Exxon/Mobil - as well as SN Plus and SP.

Why you may ask? Well the Telluride takes 6.5-6.8 quarts. My '98 Chevy takes 5 quarts. I've been running the HM in the '98 and like it. I can buy the 12 quart box of M1 HM from Walmart and it's the perfect amount for both vehicles. I can get the Vanilla M1 in the same box, for the same price, but I like the HM in the pickup. I also like the slightly thicker formulation of the HM version over the Vanilla M1. I guess I am a thickie after all! I think I already know it's fine - I just want a sanity check I guess. I'll put Vanilla M1 in the pickup if it means doing what's best for the newer and much more expensive vehicle.

Also, if any other Telluride/3.8 Lambda owners have any previous experience they'd like to share, please do! This is our first Kia (owned several GMs and Hondas in the past). It's also our first GDi vehicle.

Oh - pics are always required for these kind of posts!

View attachment 47667
Oh no do not use a HM in that nice new ride . It’s will swell the hell out them seals and possibly blow that motor up . Like boooom 💥💥💥💣💣💣
 
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