Last edited by a moderator:
Next time try the NGK Iridium. I believe that I have eight years and approaching 300 hours on the ones in my lawn tractor. All of my OHV powered OPE have NGK Iridium plugs. My 40 year old Troy-Bilt rototiller with a flathead B&S doesn't only because NGK doesn't make an Iridium replacement for the ubiquitous RJ19LM. Luckily Autolite does.Pulled the plug and of course it’s a Torch plug. Swapped with NGK and it runs like new money.
For $900 I figured they could at least throw a $7 plug in it.The Torch is just to fill the hole until you get a decent spark plug. Same thing with the "Westinghouse" generator I bought a few years ago.
Heck at the scale they buy them at bet they'd get a genuine NGK for like $2. But when Torch probably costs them $0.25, well, the CEO got over $9M last year, don't worry. And for what it's worth if I was the CEO I'd probably do the same thing. Well, no, I wouldn't want to, but the board of directors and shareholders would probably get mad at me for spending the extra $1.75 per unit on an NGK.For $900 I figured they could at least throw a $7 plug in it.
If building or continuing a reputation of reliability for a brand meant spending the extra little coin on a better spark plug, then I would strive to make the argument.Heck at the scale they buy them at bet they'd get a genuine NGK for like $2. But when Torch probably costs them $0.25, well, the CEO got over $9M last year, don't worry. And for what it's worth if I was the CEO I'd probably do the same thing. Well, no, I wouldn't want to, but the board of directors and shareholders would probably get mad at me for spending the extra $1.75 per unit on an NGK.
Can you explain that? How much does it reduce the voltage?I wouldn't go as far as an iridium or ruthenium plug but I would definitely spend a few extra dollars for a platinum G-Power NGK. It will reduce the voltage required to arc and offer durability far beyond the life expectancy of a typical air-cooled generator.
You can test this by comparing the ignition voltage of a "standard" new vs worn plug. Worn plugs will have the edges eroded away on both the electrode and the ground strap (usually easier to see on the electrode). Sharp edges reduce the voltage required to jump as does a smaller gap.Can you explain that? How much does it reduce the voltage?
Yeah no I’m not doing that. I really wanted to know how much difference it makes and whether the voltage change made any practical difference.You can test this by comparing the ignition voltage of a "standard" new vs worn plug. Worn plugs will have the edges eroded away on both the electrode and the ground strap (usually easier to see on the electrode). Sharp edges reduce the voltage required to jump as does a smaller gap.
If you want a stronger arc in your spark plug you can sharpen the edges, close the gap, reduce the compression. By itself, the small & sharp tip of a platinum / iridium / ruthenium electrode will reduce the voltage requirement compared to a worn / round tip. A standard plug will wear fairly quickly and that's where these alternatives have an advantage. Or, you could frequently remove / sharpen / gap a standard plug and get similar, short-term effect.
It can make the difference between the generator / engine, starting / running or not. I've done this on several engines with poor ignition / coils. It can save you in a pinch but now I use platinum plugs (G-Power NGK) as minimum spec in anything that's important.Yeah no I’m not doing that. I really wanted to know how much difference it makes and whether the voltage change made any practical difference.
I guess I’m not sure how you would really get a performance difference on a high performance engine either. The only real advantage to the platinum group tip materials is longevity. A nickel plug that isn’t worn out isn’t going to provide a performance degradation, at least not one that’s tangible to the user.It can make the difference between the generator / engine, starting / running or not. I've done this on several engines with poor ignition / coils. It can save you in a pinch but now I use platinum plugs (G-Power NGK) as minimum spec in anything that's important.
I don't think there'd be a noticeable improvement (new standard vs platinum) on a low performance engine.
The ECM can adjust timing and fuel based on feedback and weak ignition will trigger reduced output. If the ECM is reading "all clear" it can continue to push the combustion chambers closer to the limits. More advance, more boost, etc.I guess I’m not sure how you would really get a performance difference on a high performance engine either. The only real advantage to the platinum group tip materials is longevity. A nickel plug that isn’t worn out isn’t going to provide a performance degradation, at least not one that’s tangible to the user.
Why would you want to save a few bucks in an application like this? Platinum plugs are yesterday's news.I wouldn't go as far as an iridium or ruthenium plug but I would definitely spend a few extra dollars for a platinum G-Power NGK. It will reduce the voltage required to arc and offer durability far beyond the life expectancy of a typical air-cooled generator.
Just cost averaging and IX / HX plugs are often not available for power equipment. GP plugs are a definite upgrade and will need to be changed early due to contamination not wear. I'm happy to spend the extra $5 but don't see the value in paying triple that.Why would you want to save a few bucks in an application like this? Platinum plugs are yesterday's news.
They must cost more up north I guess. IIRC NGK Iridiums were about 8 USD the last time I bought them.Just cost averaging and IX / HX plugs are often not available for power equipment. GP plugs are a definite upgrade and will need to be changed early due to contamination not wear. I'm happy to spend the extra $5 but don't see the value in paying triple that.