New Pads for 2014 F-150 STX

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Oct 28, 2017
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Location
Americus, GA
I didn't like the way the brakes felt on my F-150. Well today, I replaced front and rear pads. I went with Motorcraft BRSD 1414 up front and Motorcraft BRSD 1602 in the rear. I wasn't sure what brand or type were on the truck. I had a feeling that they were ceramic pads. I don't really care for ceramic pads. The Motorcraft Severe Duty Are semi-metallic. I got the old pads off and they were Motorcraft OE standard duty. The front pads had cracks in the friction material. I got the new ones on, along with new hardware. Everything was cleaned and properly lubricated with CRC Silaramic brake grease. They were bedded properly. Tomorrow, I plan on bleeding them. I'm happy with the results.
 
Bleeding them tomorrow. I cracked the bleeder screws while depressing the caliper pistons. I had to top off with about 8oz. of fluid.
 
Op

You'll like the MC Severe Duty Pads
Used those on my 2012 F150, worked great
Very durable and tuff pads !
 
I believe that I will like them. I am not a fan of ceramic pads. There is no way that I would use them on a pickup truck. When I need to make a quick stop, ceramic isn't going get the job done. Ceramic pads don't handle high heat well and stops are longer. I see where a lot of people are using Power Stop Z36 pads. I just don't believe they are anywhere as good as Motorcraft Severe Duty or Wagner SD brake pads.
 
For trucks, semi-metallic pads are the way to go. Go with the Motorcraft or Wagner severe-duty pads. I've installed ThermoQuiet Metallic on a friend's Explorer and he's happy with the braking on it.

Now, I put on ThermoQuiet Ceramic on a ex-friend's GMT400 Tahoe 2-door and they seemed to work fine, it was those or Chinese pads seeing how cheap he was. That was an exception to my norm, he wasn't going to tow or haul and that truck was going to be short tripped a lot.
 
Well, I got the brakes bled. The rear lines didn't have much air in them. However, the front had plenty of air in them. I have a good firm peddle and it stops straight. The difference is amazing. I bought the truck used so, I didn't know when the brakes were last serviced. The pads that came off had plenty of friction material but, I don't believe they were installed or bedded properly. It's great now and stops like a new truck.
 
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Did you turn the old rotors or just do a pad slap? Ford wants our techs to wash the rotors in hot soapy water before either installing new ones or machining the old ones to get them clean. In the real world that doesn't happen a lot though.

Glad you liked the SD pads. We don't usually carry them but some customers only want those or the OE ones for their trucks.
 
The rotors were nice and smooth, no lines or ridges. I just cleaned everything good with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. I removed the old pads and hardware. I used a wire brush where the hardware seats in the calipers and hit with brake cleaner again. I put a dab of Silaramic where the hardware sits in the calipers and a little on the pad ears and remounted. I did clean and lube the slide pins. I've been doing brake jobs on my personal cars for a number of years and have never had a rotor turned. If they are in need of turning, I'll just buy new ones.
The local Ford dealership had the OE pads in stock but, I had to order the SD pads. They weren't cheap but, good ain't cheap.
 
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I use the severe duty pads on my personal truck (sig) and use them on our fleet at work. They provide lots of bite but aren't kind to rotors.
 
I tend to agree with you, in the most part. Driving style and towing has a lot to do with their effect on rotors. In a fleet situation, you don't know who might be driving that truck on a daily basis. I don't plan to do any towing and I get a lot of miles out of brakes.
 
Originally Posted by MParr
I tend to agree with you, in the most part. Driving style and towing has a lot to do with their effect on rotors. In a fleet situation, you don't know who might be driving that truck on a daily basis. I don't plan to do any towing and I get a lot of miles out of brakes.



Then
As you mention already
Next change it's a simple rotor and pad change

In my opinion that's the best way to do a brake job
Brakes are to important to go cheap !!!
 
Originally Posted by MParr
The rotors were nice and smooth, no lines or ridges. I just cleaned everything good with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. I removed the old pads and hardware. I used a wire brush where the hardware seats in the calipers and hit with brake cleaner again. I put a dab of Silaramic where the hardware sits in the calipers and a little on the pad ears and remounted. I did clean and lube the slide pins. I've been doing brake jobs on my personal cars for a number of years and have never had a rotor turned. If they are in need of turning, I'll just buy new ones.
The local Ford dealership had the OE pads in stock but, I had to order the SD pads. They weren't cheap but, good ain't cheap.

I have found that changing the pad material without resurfacing or replacing the rotors can sometimes cause strange issues. But it sounds like the new pads were aggressive enough to clean up the rotor immediately.
 
The Critic
To be honest, I have never had any issues after changing pads and not resurfacing or putting on new rotors. I can generally get well over 50,000 miles on a set of pads. I know that may sound strange to some folks. But, my dad taught me not to ride the brakes and to let up on the gas way before a stop light or stop sign.
 
I installed THERMO-QUIETS on the front end at 98K miles. They still had 4 mm of pad left. I replaced the rear pads at 130K miles with THERMO-QUIETS. They still had about 5-6 mm of pad left. Both were semi-metallic. And, the rotors were in excellent shape.
I have been using Wagner brakes pads for many years.
 
BOF
I usually buy OE or Wagner brake parts.
cheers3.gif
 
Originally Posted by MParr
The Critic
To be honest, I have never had any issues after changing pads and not resurfacing or putting on new rotors. I can generally get well over 50,000 miles on a set of pads. I know that may sound strange to some folks. But, my dad taught me not to ride the brakes and to let up on the gas way before a stop light or stop sign.

Fair enough - I usually do not have issues with replacing the pads only for rear brakes. Perhaps it is a characteristic of our driving conditions but I find that 90% of front brake jobs require for the rotors to be machined or replaced due to pulsation issues.
 
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