lubeowner, your statement above seems contradictory: factory installed Motorcraft filters are made by Champion Labs; the aftermarket ones are made by Purolator...which kind are you referring to?
New oil filter failures (pics coming soon)
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RF overload,
Ford has 2 different contracts for their oil filters. Champion Labs make the oil filter that comes with the brand new Ford. And Purolator makes the Motorcraft filter your buy from an auto parts store.
Ford has 2 different contracts for their oil filters. Champion Labs make the oil filter that comes with the brand new Ford. And Purolator makes the Motorcraft filter your buy from an auto parts store.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Any filter with a "clicker" type by-pass is asking for trouble.
OK Greaser
This-here Frat would like to know which oil filter manufacturers assemble the clickers?
OK Greaser
This-here Frat would like to know which oil filter manufacturers assemble the clickers?
Lubeowner....Keep up the good work. It is good to hear someone caring about their customers the way you do. I was, just this evening telling a friend about your findings....and he asked about K&N and Purolator Pure One. I see that you have the K&N in the field now.
Someone also mentioned cold weather....and people not letting their car warm up.....first thing most any car does when started is go into fast idle.....I would think that it is at that point that the oil would push the hardest in the filter. I don't let the car idle until warm.....but I do drive moderately....to keep the rpms down...
It would be interesting to see what results you do see in warmer weather......to see how much of the stress is caused by extra cold oil AND dirt in the media.....and how much stress is caused by just the dirt in the media.
I have a nice collection of past oil filters from my car....that I have been planing to cut open......looking forward to a nice messy look inside.
Someone also mentioned cold weather....and people not letting their car warm up.....first thing most any car does when started is go into fast idle.....I would think that it is at that point that the oil would push the hardest in the filter. I don't let the car idle until warm.....but I do drive moderately....to keep the rpms down...
It would be interesting to see what results you do see in warmer weather......to see how much of the stress is caused by extra cold oil AND dirt in the media.....and how much stress is caused by just the dirt in the media.
I have a nice collection of past oil filters from my car....that I have been planing to cut open......looking forward to a nice messy look inside.
As for the comment about a well orchestrated smear campaign, that makes no sense. Who am I smearing, I have over 1500 Champion filters in my OWN SHOP. I found this forum while searching for something about motor oil additives negative effects on vehicles. I am here as someone who has access to 1000 filters per month and will try to give an unbiased opinion as I take them apart. I could care less which brand filter is the best and am not for or against any one manufacturer. I just want a quality filter at a good price, like everyone else on this forum. I have used many different lines of filters over the years but have been with Champion (Warner brand name) for about 5 years.
I think that those who have suggested the high failure rate on the filters that were run through the winter are right on target. People who rev their engine or accelerate quickly on a cold morning may cause this damage, but it is not an excuse for the filter to fail. There should be a MUCH higher tolerance built into the filter or at least a bypass that works. BTW does anyone know how the clicker is supposed to work. I have studied it closely and it makes no sense.
The filters for many GM engine that have the bypass incorporated into the oil pump have shown no failures. This leads me to believe the problem, especially with the PH253 is that the filter bypass does not work.
I apologize if I caused confusion about the Motorcraft filter. The good one I am refering to is the Purolator built ones with orange ADBV and oval shaped inlet holes.
Never took apart a M1 back when we had a select few. I will order a couple cases of them Tues. and try to get some out in the field.
I think that those who have suggested the high failure rate on the filters that were run through the winter are right on target. People who rev their engine or accelerate quickly on a cold morning may cause this damage, but it is not an excuse for the filter to fail. There should be a MUCH higher tolerance built into the filter or at least a bypass that works. BTW does anyone know how the clicker is supposed to work. I have studied it closely and it makes no sense.
The filters for many GM engine that have the bypass incorporated into the oil pump have shown no failures. This leads me to believe the problem, especially with the PH253 is that the filter bypass does not work.
I apologize if I caused confusion about the Motorcraft filter. The good one I am refering to is the Purolator built ones with orange ADBV and oval shaped inlet holes.
Never took apart a M1 back when we had a select few. I will order a couple cases of them Tues. and try to get some out in the field.
Yes, I know that...my question was that lubeowner seemed to be implying that the filter he dissected was a factory-installed one AND that it was made by Purolator...I was just asking him to clarify his seemingly contradictory statement.
lubeowner..
"The filters for many GM engine that have the bypass incorporated into the oil pump have shown no failures."
I think what you really mean to say is that all oil pumps have a pressure regualting valve.
GM puts their by-pass valve in the filter head assembly not in the oil pump.
"The filters for many GM engine that have the bypass incorporated into the oil pump have shown no failures."
I think what you really mean to say is that all oil pumps have a pressure regualting valve.
GM puts their by-pass valve in the filter head assembly not in the oil pump.
I've never used a cheaper champion but I'm curious if you've come a cross am e-core yet?
Filter guy,
Thanks for clarifying, it was late when I wrote that.
About the e-core, we have had them for quite a while. Just started to cup a few open and have found no failures. I like the fact that so much oil can flow through them. The only thing I could see going wrong with them is the combo valve used. I am not sure how "predictable" the pressure open and closed would be after an extended drain and the rubber has hardened up? Just a thought. The end cap is easy to peel off but I think in real world operating conditions this is not a factor as the oil is pushing against the cap and not pulling away at it.
Thanks for clarifying, it was late when I wrote that.
About the e-core, we have had them for quite a while. Just started to cup a few open and have found no failures. I like the fact that so much oil can flow through them. The only thing I could see going wrong with them is the combo valve used. I am not sure how "predictable" the pressure open and closed would be after an extended drain and the rubber has hardened up? Just a thought. The end cap is easy to peel off but I think in real world operating conditions this is not a factor as the oil is pushing against the cap and not pulling away at it.
BBC And SBC Oil Filter Adapter.
I know what you are saying about the GM block mounted oil filter bypass valve.
It is interesting many years ago (early 80s) I read and article on the small block Chevy history. Some of the people that gave input was GM auto engineers from the 50s and 60s.
The original 1955 265 motor did not even use a oil filter but in 1956 they did. But is was a canister filter, hence how the block mounted oil filter bypass valve got installed.
It seems that at the time they went over to normal style oil filters around 1967 or 1968 the GM engineers felt the need not the change the block mounted oil filter bypass setup. They wanted to control oil filter bypass setting as opposed to the filter manufactures. GM engineers were worried about filter manufactures ability to accurately control oil filter bypass setting. GM engineers were worried about many potential problems with the in the filter bypass setup.
I'm thinking these GM engineers were right on track....... many decades ago.
Hirev, lubeowner, me three.
lubeowner,
Did you have a chance to do some oil filter disections today, as planned?
Did you have a chance to do some oil filter disections today, as planned?
Yesterday my shop forman showed me a filter he said he has taken off several cars lately, the base was blown inside out, with the filter stretched out. First he tried to tell me it was the Denso filter that I try to stock, but when I had him clean it I could see that it was a "look alike", without the Denso name. I forget the number, but it is the PH-8A equiv.
We cut it open and it had a small filter area, a big spring at the top, and a loose fitting bypass valve that you could push way in where it would stick, or push a little crooked and it would not go down.
Did not have the camera handy though.
Then the fun began when we called the filter distributor.
We cut it open and it had a small filter area, a big spring at the top, and a loose fitting bypass valve that you could push way in where it would stick, or push a little crooked and it would not go down.
Did not have the camera handy though.
Then the fun began when we called the filter distributor.
The first thing anyone does on a serious performance SBC or BBC is replace the factory bypass mount with a non-bypass mount. At least that way you KNOW ALL the oil will go thru the filter.
Tech folks at Baldwin told me that Baldwin and Hastings filters are identical. They make lower quality lines like Casite and others, as well as the Amsoil line of full-flow oil filters (not Amsoil bypass).
Champ is from Champion Laboratories. I've seen photos showing that some NAPA Silver filters are real junk and some are OK...it depends on the model.
If there is any question about an engine problem possibly relating to the filter, I always want to install a filter from the dealership. That's what the engine design engineer specified. If that doesn't solve the problem, it likely isn't the filter. If it does solve the problem, then the particular aftermarket filter was the problem.
Lubeowner, how would your business fare if you sold a good line like WIX, Purolator, or Baldwin, and had a display of various brands of other filters showing the damage? I'd be glad to pay an extra coupl'a bucks at a shop that went to this effort.
Ken
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